Topic: Terry's Kawasaki Mach III 500 build. Let the smoke begin.....

[PeWe]

Smoke and happiness are friends

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks guys, yep I knew that it isn’t the correct year for that paint scheme Steve, but I’m only building it for me, so not fussed, but if down the track I decide to sell it, I’ve got the other set of tins to paint in the correct colour. I might even get Dion to paint it for me, he’s a brilliant painter. Thanks for that link, I’ll check it out.

[ekpent]

  Its nicknamed now the "Grey Ghost". I've ridden it in the past and it was actually pretty darn spunky.

Hey Eric...when running right, I bet that 400 was more than just "spunky"! 
BTW - that bike as is may be more valuable than you think.

Here's a pic of my H1 from a couple years back after a couple month lay up...Let the smoke begin!

I always liked that smokey picture Steve. Sean stopped in once I think when I did a first start on a GT750 and it was running in the parking lot putting out a huge cloud of "skeeter control". Pics somewhere. Definitely don't fire them up in a closed workshop - cough cough ---

[MauiK3]

That blue is beautiful.
About the labyrinths.
This type of seal is used on many steam turbines like those used in ships that have boilers or reactors. They really work well and seal in the in and out the out. They are used where heat would rapidly deteriorate most rubber seals. On ships the seal is usually a “male/female” design to make a torturous path much like what a finger joint in wood looks like.

[grcamna2]

That blue look fantastic, wheels too!
Your build will be good, that's for sure.

I love that blue. 

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks guys, yep it was the paint set and those wheels that sold me on the trade, plus I have the original fenders and two sets of exhausts to choose from. Lots of surface rust, but the phosphoric acid will bring them back. There’s a really nice seat too, Dion blasted and painted the base in 2 pack black and it looks like new, with the new seat cover he provided.

All I really need to do is rebuild the engine, clean up the chrome and paint the frame. I would have had the frame powder coated, but I’m worried about the manufacturer decal on the steering head being damaged, so I’ll just sand the frame back, and paint it like  Kawasaki did.

[Stev-o]

I’m worried about the manufacturer decal on the steering head being damaged...

FYI: Eric's "buddy", Rick Brett is the Triples guru, he repops those as well as all types of decals.   
And has nice pics on his eBay listings!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363441615543?hash=item549ecef2b7:g:p4gAAOSwlzRacc0C&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHOvGiT%2BOJ2NkcKu%2BB532LASsi4FPuj08fkQzXglsMJORmjizRLx3KYZHO%2BKvIqDGqX2L3JK0FSAkaR3X05NAUwI0Gzm00ENNgb4DzByjGyieMY5C1SqkhESEZ1ETkrwzDfepd22IbU3KVr4B1Ij%2BJSseNA4E3ThsdN8CrDwqotJcbLSjuYn068ots0kcA9iQ4UsvahN5nz9QbrdaINke1k%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-iwzeTOYQ

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Steve, I saw a Youtube vid of Rick’s yesterday, by coincidence. I’ll order one, I really don’t want to paint it if I can get it powder coated, I do like paint, but don’t want to put the hard work in sanding the frame and swingarm etc.

[RAFster122s]

Would a local sandblaster outfit do an inexpensive blast of the frame? Would save you hours of wire wheel and flap sanding wheel time on the frame in the heat? If you broke it down for them it would be a 15-20 minute job for them…
That would be worth $50 to me…
Much more than that I would just do it myself.

[Terry in Australia]

I take all my frames to get blasted at my local powder coater David, then I usually just paint them, the only reason I didn’t want to do that this time was the OEM sticker on the steering head. Blasting isn’t that cheap here, I think I usually pay around $150 AUD for a frame and a swingarm? I’m still on the fence about powder coating it, it’s much easier than painting it myself and I’m not worried about the cost, but I still remember having to chase all the threads and clean out all the nooks and crannies, sanding off the earth points etc to remove any excess blasting grit or powder material, plus it chips so easily, but paint is a pain too.

[BenelliSEI]

Terry.... as you know, I primed and painted the S/C, but I’ve Powder coated my last 10-12 projects. It last longer and is so easy to wipe down.... I stuff all the threaded holes with bolts I’ve used so many times, they only go in and out with small vice grips! My powder coater plugs the big holes with metallic tape. I leave the old headstock races in to protect the tube and knock them out afterwards.....

Nothing beats a clean, freshly coated frame.

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah, I’m not as excited about it John, my experience is that it chips really easily, rust can get under it and lift it, and is a baastard to get off. My powder coater hates having to remove old powder coat (they burn it off with an oxy/acetylene torch) and charge big bucks to remove it.

I’ve painted all of my recent projects except the Z1-B that had a freshly powder coated frame, which the owner had first installed a Z1-A engine and chipped the frame quite badly removing the engine again. It looks ok with the engine in place, but if it was painted I could just fog some paint over any scratching. Having said that, paint is messy and overspray is a problem, nothing is the perfect solution to everything.

[grcamna2]

Terry,Did you do an even swap with your K2 as you had prepared it for Dion and traded for your received truckload of H1 parts ?

[Terry in Australia]

I’m not sure what an “even swap” means Bill? I like Dion, so I never intended to profit from the deal, I think I did ok though, what do you think? Dion wanted a bike to cosmetically restore without having to do an engine build and I’m more than happy with all of the parts that he offered to trade me. An engine build (particularly a 2 stroke) is pretty easy and apart from a crank rebuild not that expensive, so I’m happy, especially with the paint set, wheels and seat already done for me, plus nice gauges, handlebar controls etc.

[RAFster122s]

Even swap will typically refer to no money changing hands in the trade.

[Terry in Australia]

Even swap will typically refer to no money changing hands in the trade.

OK, yes, no money changed hands (because neither of us have any.......)

[PeWe]

Currency is Bikes

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, we both got what we wanted, and I was happy that I got to keep all of the trick 70’s era aftermarket parts that I can either sell or reuse. While I was rattling around looking for K2 parts to put back on it, I found a good back wheel for my K1 which was a real bonus, I didn’t know I had it and was trawling through Ebay looking for one, and for some reason couldn’t find one anywhere, so that saved me some money too.

I’ve got a painted frame, forks and a front wheel so I might put a roller together and think about rebuilding an engine, and then decide if I’ll keep it or flip it as I will still have enough parts to build another K1 down the track with a big bore kit, hot cam, ported head and Lester wheels etc.

[grcamna2]

Terry,you're the 'motorcycle parts Baron'   
I think you did Very well on the swap between you and Dion. H1 ! + H1 !! 
Did he call you and tell you how he's pleased also ?

[MauiK3]

I’m a fan of POR 15 as most of you know. It goes on easily and is very, very tough and chip resistant.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Bill, yep he’s stoked. He’s not well enough to ride yet but he sent me some pictures of the sidecovers that he’s already painted, they look better than new! He’s painting it teal blue, which I don’t think is correct for a K2, but they looked so good I didn’t tell him.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Steve, I like Rustoleum, it’s cheap (like me) can be sprayed at any angle and dries before the bugs can settle in it.

[Tintop]

I’m a fan of POR 15 as most of you know. It goes on easily and is very, very tough and chip resistant

Thanks Steve, I like Rustoleum, it’s cheap (like me) can be sprayed at any angle and dries before the bugs can settle in it.

The issue I found with POR 15 is that it will turn gray when exposed to sunlight (UV).

[RAFster122s]

I’m a fan of POR 15 as most of you know. It goes on easily and is very, very tough and chip resistant

Thanks Steve, I like Rustoleum, it’s cheap (like me) can be sprayed at any angle and dries before the bugs can settle in it.

The issue I found with POR 15 is that it will turn gray when exposed to sunlight (UV).

POR15 rust preventative paint original formula has to be top coated as it doesn’t contain UV inhibitors. Clearly says that on the can.  POR15 Chassis Black is UV stable and won’t turn gray or brown…
Different product…
It is suitable for frame paint. Their engine paints are also UV stable but they go on pretty thick…

Epoxy appliance paint is a pretty good frame paint…

But spraying frames is messy with lots of overspray…just the nature of the beast unfortunately, no way around it when spraying tubular steel.

[ekpent]

Thanks Steve, I like Rustoleum, it’s cheap (like me) can be sprayed at any angle and dries before the bugs can settle in it.

  Me too !!