So you had bad new points/condensers ?
Yeah, it seems the 2/3 points were wonky or something. They initially worked (static setting and then checking for voltage/no voltage when they were open/closed). After a day of sitting, 2/3 would not fully close.
Yep, this has been the sort of thing I have seen with the Chinko-made Daiichi points. I have heard that they are 'knockoffs', i.e., counterfeits of the Japanese Daiichi product, and not authorized by Daiichi Japan. I have a lot of the Japanese version of these from almost 12 years ago, and they work with little trouble outside of ending up with not-standard gaps, like 0.015" on #1-4 and 0.012" on #2-3, which is the signature of the ones I have. But, these have not been available for a long time, so this has added to the confusion over the Daiichi components overall. The old Daiichi Japan condensors actuallly worked, too, for a while, but failed after a few years.
The current crop of the Daiichi/China points that I have seen have the little pivot pin on the backing plate in the wrong location by about 0.004" (0.01mm). This geometric offset causes the problems like you have just experienced with them: the gaps cannot be set within the range of the points' baseplate slots, and if you add more slot length to 'reach' the 1-4 timing marks, the 2-3 points' gap ends up being right at the edge of the upper range where the points cam on the spark advancer will still be pressing on the 'foot' of the 2-3 points when you get the 2-3 timing marks close to the "F" mark. If you then try to add more slot length to the 2-3 points' sub-plate, the needed increase cuts all the way past the edge of that subplate.
To "fix" this with these points (it is possible, but not great) you must bend the ground pad arm closer to the moving point, but in such a way that the face of the points still remain parallel to each other. I do it by bending the ground arm toward the moving point, which first tilts the ground contact, and then, a little further up the ground arm from the base, re-bend a new bend to make them parallel again. This also causes the ground pad to sit back, closer to the points plate, so the moving contact and the ground contact are not concentric with each other anymore. This causes the arc-mark to grow into a half-moon shape on the edges of both pads, definitely NOT on center with each other. After 50-100 miles of running like this, I install the Transistor Ignition to remove the arcing, and run them that way. I first did this in 2014 when these counterfeit points first appeared, and ran those points for 6 years with not troubles, but it was just to see if they could be made to work at all.
The condensors I used were old TEC units from the 1990s that I had on hand. They worked fine. In 2015 I found a genuine new TEC plate assembly (then from South Sound Honda) and in 2016 installed it w/o the Transistor Ignition for 100 miles, then put the Transistors back to work again. It's been untouched (except for the annual timing light shining on it) since then, no timing shift or troubles.
Since last year, I disconnected the condensors and run on the points with the Transistor Ignition. My spark advancer is quite loose and worn (over 150k miles), so the timing 'jitters' about 1-2 degrees at idle from the looseness of the inside of the advancer's cam on the shaft. As soon as the advance starts moving, though, the jitter stops and becomes rock-solid in the timing light view, and the bike runs great: it's just a little unhappy at cold idle.
