Topic: 75 CB550 Swingarm Collar Removal

[opp750]

My understanding is that center collar (A) should just slid in and out, but mine will not budge. Does that mean it's stuck to the swingarm bushings or could it be stuck to the phenolic bearings (B)? Do they need to be removed first? I've tried tapping out the collar with a wood dowel with no luck.

[BenelliSEI]

More likely it’s seized tothe two larger end bushings. You can put a threaded rod through, using a large socket at one end as a spacer, and try using nuts and washers to force it out.....realistically a proper hydraulic press is the answer.

[opp750]

That's what I figured. I'll try soaking it in some penetrating oil and see if I can get it to loosen up first.
Thanks

[bryanj]

The phenolic end thrusta and felt washers should just pop out the ends as ther are only in a rew mm. I suggest you need new bushings and collar, brass bush replacements do not use the phenolic thrusts as they are flanged but make sure you are sat down with a stiff drink before you order the collar, and YES you will need it

[HondaMan]

...or, you can send me the arm, and I'll rebuild it with Oilite bushings (and a new collar if I can't resurface the old one) for a lifetime repair.

[opp750]

HondaMan - Although I started this project to teach myself how to do most of this, I think this might be one for you. Can you send me a price and shipping instructions, etc?

I have a new set of phenolic bearings and felt washers on their way, but I can always put them in the for sale section.

[HondaMan]

The phenolic bushings only last until the grease makes them spongy (which is how most of them are after 2 years). Then, they don't wear any further, but the handling gets squishier and squishier, most noticed when pulling up out of a deep turn - your line keeps changing, making for wobbles. The bronze bushings stop that nonsense, and for good!

PM me for details.

[Deltarider]

I must have done something wrong then, as my swing arm after 140.000 does not show any play whatsoever.
But..., after I consulted the parts list for my model, a CB500K2-ED, I learned the assembly underwent modification: the center coller and pivot bolt are -390- parts and the dust seal caps -362-. Mine has but one central grease nipple, which is a PITA. I have tried to grease it, but have been succesful no more than maybe three times in over 100.000km.

[bryanj]

Only difference on the 390 part is each end has a single groove machined around it about half way along the bush pivot area, and is now obsoleted but the early 300 one has a spiral cut in it along the whole bush length area and is still available, plus you can use it instead of the 390 part.
If yours has done that mileage only being greased 2 times with no play i suggest you buy a lottery ticket!

[Deltarider]

If yours has done that mileage only being greased 2 times with no play i suggest you buy a lottery ticket!

Three times max I have been succesful greasing, meaning grease coming out at the sides. Most of the times I got frustrated when the greaseguns didn't fit the nipple (or couldn't be reached) and grease came down just next to the nipple. I left it at that.
Same with the clutch lifter. But... also that part underwent modification. I should add that for the last 35 years I didn't ride in the wet.

[Little_Phil]

I couldn't feel any movement until I removed the wheel and shocks and had the arm swinging free.

[HondaMan]

I couldn't feel any movement until I removed the wheel and shocks and had the arm swinging free.

This is typical. When the shocks are fully extended and locked the swingarm becomes a set of 4 triangles, so it rigidly locks and many people then don't "see" the looseness. Also, the phenolic bushings, once soaked with grease, are spongy in terms of the several-thousand-pound forces that are applied sideways to it when recovering from a turn, even a small lean-over angle.

When I roadraced in the 1970s, this stuff was CRITICAL to making the bikes handle at all: the stock bikes would always wobble (and fall behind the pack for insecure handling traits) when coming out of turns, while those we modified with solid bushings (some even with interference fits) could be observed to come straight up out of a turn.

I might add that we also had the tapered steering head bearings added, but the steering heads were only an issue after the bikes had more than about 8k miles on them. Many of the tracks were go-kart racing tracks, so the speeds were low, like 60-70 MPH tops, which gave lot of going-into and coming-out-of turns to look for these things. Before I switched to the bronze rear bushings in my 750 I could not even stay in a line when coming "up". Here in the Rockies, where speeds are nearly triple-digit when coming down the steeper hills in heavy traffic, rigid swingarm bushings make all the difference.