Author Topic: Johnie's 76 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow Build (Read 21895 times)

Johnie · « **Reply #200 on:** June 12, 2023, 03:02:25 PM »

I found a Hagon dealer 20 miles from me.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #201 on:** June 12, 2023, 03:45:40 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 12, 2023, 03:02:25 PM

I found a Hagon dealer 20 miles from me.

That's excellent Johnie;are they a British motorcycle shop?
The only Hagon shock dealer I knew of in the USA was Dave Quiin in CT. and he's been out of business for over 7 years now,unfortunately.. Can you share your experience with them ?

Johnie · « **Reply #202 on:** June 13, 2023, 07:35:50 AM »

It's the Time Machine Garage in Appleton, WI. www.facebook.com/timemachinegarage I talked to the owner yesterday.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #203 on:** June 13, 2023, 02:40:57 PM »

That’s great, they can get custom setup for you. I had Koni shocks on my 75 back in the day, big improvement over stock.

Johnie · « **Reply #204 on:** June 13, 2023, 03:11:48 PM »

Got the timing belts off. Pulleys rotate smooth do to the low miles, but do I need to use a scuff pad or wire wheel on the pulley surface?

grcamna2 · « **Reply #205 on:** June 13, 2023, 03:43:45 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 13, 2023, 03:11:48 PM

Got the timing belts off. Pulleys rotate smooth do to the low miles, but do I need to use a scuff pad or wire wheel on the pulley surface?

Do the bearings need a re-pack with fresh grease ?

newday777 · « **Reply #206 on:** June 13, 2023, 03:47:14 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on June 13, 2023, 03:43:45 PM

Quote from: Johnie on June 13, 2023, 03:11:48 PM
Got the timing belts off. Pulleys rotate smooth do to the low miles, but do I need to use a scuff pad or wire wheel on the pulley surface?

Do the bearings need a re-pack with fresh grease ?

Not regreaseable. The bearings are riveted on the plate.

newday777 · « **Reply #207 on:** June 13, 2023, 03:48:45 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 13, 2023, 03:11:48 PM

Got the timing belts off. Pulleys rotate smooth do to the low miles, but do I need to use a scuff pad or wire wheel on the pulley surface?

You can, but unless it has tall bumps, it not necessary to remove the rust.

Johnie · « **Reply #208 on:** June 13, 2023, 04:45:07 PM »

No bumps in the pulley surface. And they free wheel very smooth. Should be good to install.

newday777 · « **Reply #209 on:** June 13, 2023, 04:50:59 PM »

When you install the belts and have the marks lined up, the word 'UP' should be at 12 o'clock.

Johnie · « **Reply #210 on:** June 13, 2023, 06:54:48 PM »

Thanks Stu. I had the "UP" markings up and both gear arrows pointing at the indicator along with the #1 at top dead center before I removed the belts.

newday777 · « **Reply #211 on:** June 13, 2023, 07:20:20 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 13, 2023, 06:54:48 PM

Thanks Stu. I had the "UP" markings up and both gear arrows pointing at the indicator along with the #1 at top dead center before I removed the belts.

Very good 👍

Johnie · « **Reply #212 on:** June 14, 2023, 02:43:34 PM »

Timing belts went on nice. Now onto the the brakes.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #213 on:** June 14, 2023, 03:35:27 PM »

Congratulations Johnie!

Johnie · « **Reply #214 on:** June 14, 2023, 07:23:37 PM »

Thanks RAF...it won't be as intimidating the next time. Everyones tips was a great help.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #215 on:** June 15, 2023, 01:40:42 AM »

First time for anything in life can be intimidating...
You are being fastidious enough without going overboard.
She isn't going to be a trailer queen or show bike, so sometimes you have to say...good enough for me I'm happy and firge ahead. Fair sight better than you began, to put it mildly.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #216 on:** June 15, 2023, 07:57:53 AM »

Nice going! When it's running the idlers will polish up themselves.

Johnie · « **Reply #217 on:** June 15, 2023, 08:45:03 AM »

I found an easy way to remove the cap on the case to view the timing marks. Just insert 2 quarters which was a snug fit and used a channel locks. I’ve seen these covers buggered up from a screwdriver.

newday777 · « **Reply #218 on:** June 15, 2023, 09:53:45 AM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 15, 2023, 08:45:03 AM

I found an easy way to remove the cap on the case to view the timing marks. Just insert 2 quarters which was a snug fit and used a channel locks. I’ve seen these covers buggered up from a screwdriver.

Good idea

Johnie · « **Reply #219 on:** June 21, 2023, 07:07:23 PM »

Got the rear MC rebuilt and installed. Now onto the caliper. Have a question…can anyone explain what this threaded hole is for? It’s on the top of the caliper. It’s not the bleeder I found that. A friend has a 75GL and it has the same threaded hole. Thx

newday777 · « **Reply #220 on:** June 22, 2023, 01:58:29 AM »

It might have been there because of the engineering thinking of a rain/water hood that the gl1100 and the 78 CB750F3 rear caliper had. Honda was always forward thinking. None of the gl1000 rear calipers had the rain hood. Just a possibility. I haven't had a gl1000 to work on, just an 83 1100. Honda did a lot of changes on disc brake systems from 1975-83.

Johnie · « **Reply #221 on:** June 22, 2023, 08:18:55 AM »

Makes sense. I will just put a bolt in there. Thx...

Johnie · « **Reply #222 on:** June 24, 2023, 04:29:55 PM »

Today got the valves adjusted. Going to paint the valve cover badges. Will JB Weld hold them in place? Concerned if the heat would loosen them up. What other adhesive would you suggest?

grcamna2 · « **Reply #223 on:** June 24, 2023, 04:53:50 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on June 24, 2023, 04:29:55 PM

Today got the valves adjusted. Going to paint the valve cover badges. Will JB Weld hold them in place? Concerned if the heat would loosen them up. What other adhesive would you suggest?

JB Weld will hold them in place very well

Prospect · « **Reply #224 on:** June 26, 2023, 10:08:55 AM »

Wow. I just found this thread! Great job so far. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of your work which is always to a high standard.

During Covid winter I did a full mechanical restoration on my 75 GL1000. It was a lot of fun working on a new type of bike and seeing the engineering. Some of the tougher to do parts were definitely the carbs and the drive shaft (U-joint) servicing. The carbs took me about 3 days. The u-joint greasing requires complete disassembly with a difficult to find grease (NLGI #2 with MoS2 additive). I have to say the work was all worth it as the bike runs PERFECT! I took it out for the first ride yesterday. Idles smoothly and accelerates well.

News:

Author Topic: Johnie's 76 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow Build (Read 21895 times)