Topic: Johnie's 76 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow Build

[Johnie]

I check fuses in the holder, using a 12v. probe test light. Surprising how often there is no power across the fuse block with a fuse that looks fine to me! Seems to happen more often in the past few years?

That's a good point John. I did learn about the RLU though. Some people disconnect it to reduce the RLU issue.

[Johnie]

Saw this at Randakk's...thoughts? Are you GL guys following this or just using the D8EA plugs.

Spark Plug Gap Deviation:
Finally, if you’ve upgraded to an electronic ignition (like Dyna-S) AND have aftermarket 3-ohm coils like Accel or Dyna – the spark plug gap should be increased to .032″ – .035″ to take full advantage of the ignition improvements you’ve invested in.

Special Note to Restorers:

The Honda-specified spark plug for the GL1000 is the NGK D8EA plug. However, when the first GL1000s were introduced, the specified plug was NGK D8ES–L. The “S” designation indicates that it was a “special” design and the “-L” designation means the heat range is a half step “cooler” than the norm for D8EA plugs.

Honda recommended the D8ES-L for all of the 750/4’s from 1969 through 1977, the CB350F, CB400F, and the GL1000 through 1977 were also included. Other Japanese manufacturers used them as well.

[Lucien Harpress]

Nothing special for me.  Bog standard D8EAs for me, and they do just fine.  I'm still running stock coils too, so it's all by the manual.

[Johnie]

Nothing special for me.  Bog standard D8EAs for me, and they do just fine.  I'm still running stock coils too, so it's all by the manual.

So are you going with the plug gap of .024 - .028 with standard points or the .032 - .035 per Randakk for electronic ignition? I see the PO had DR8ES-L in there, but his gap was .025. Not really following what Randakk has 2 posts above for the electronic ignition.

[Lucien Harpress]

He includes aftermarket coils when he suggests opening up the spark gap.  If you're still running stock coils, stick with the stock gap.  Electronic ignition by itself is really just an on/off switch, and doesn't affect the strength of the spark in any meaningful way.  Just the reliability.

The D8ES-L recommendation is more about period correctness than performance.  They're most likely functionally identical to D8EA plugs, but are the "proper" plugs to have for that concourse restoration score.

[Johnie]

He includes aftermarket coils when he suggests opening up the spark gap.  If you're still running stock coils, stick with the stock gap.  Electronic ignition by itself is really just an on/off switch, and doesn't affect the strength of the spark in any meaningful way.  Just the reliability.

The D8ES-L recommendation is more about period correctness than performance.  They're most likely functionally identical to D8EA plugs, but are the "proper" plugs to have for that concourse restoration score.

Okay I understand thanks for that insight. I will use the D8EA plugs with the standard gap.

[Don R]

 My 78 wing has a dyna with a bosch relay providing voltage, a set of gl1500 coils, no ballast resistor and Denso plugs. The longer I own it the better it seems to run.
  I did do the Randakk pilot air restriction recommended for 77 models, I put 105  kiehen jets from a 77 750 in the rubber pilot air hoses. 

[Johnie]

Hey John thanks for turning me to Apex Brakes. Unreal service. I was texting Raymond at night figuring he would get the message in the morning. To my surprise he got back to me that night. By the end of the evening we had the size and ends ordered. Got the line on today and got the front and back brakes bled with my Mity Vac and everything is good. I will use them again.

[BenelliSEI]

Glad to hear that. He’s really a great resource and his stuff is always first rate. Did you get the black hoses or go for something flashy?

[grcamna2]

Glad to hear that. He’s really a great resource and his stuff is always first rate. Did you get the black hoses or go for something flashy?

John,I need a hose;do you have his contact info ? 

[Johnie]

Apex Brakes...contact Raymond Chan at 416-900-2594 or raymond@apexbrakes.com

[Johnie]

Glad to hear that. He’s really a great resource and his stuff is always first rate. Did you get the black hoses or go for something flashy?

I went with the black as I wanted to keep the stock look.

[Johnie]

Got a good look at the tank interior. The 2 pickup screens look really good as do the 2 metal gas lines in the bottom. The sides of the tank don't really look to bad. The bottom has some loose flakes floating around. I can move them around. There is about an inch of fuel in the deepest part of the tank so I don't think it will be safe to use my shop vac to suck the gas out. Probably siphon it out, let it dry and then suck out the particles on the bottom. Don't think I am going to try electrolysis as I don't want the hydrogen gas in the shop. I have some rust remover that is eco-friendly I am going to try since the tank really does not look that bad. The clean steel side walls looks good. Do I need to removed that petcock and steel fuel lines with the 2 screens or can I keep it in during the rust removal. I am expecting to do the eco rust remover a few times. I can always try the vinegar if needed. Will be ready for some flash rust...been through that before. I see a drain bolt on the lower "side"of the tank, but have to see how close it is to the bottom. I also have a hand operated suction device I can try.

[grcamna2]

Johnie,I don't think the 'in tank' steel tubes w/ strainers on the ends are removable?

[Don R]

 I used muriatic acid in a pretty rusty GL1000 tank, I did remove the petcock and plugged the holes with hose on a golf tee. I sat the entire tank in a new tote on 2x4's in case it sprung a leak. I flushed the lines afterwards and the screen survived intact.
 I used a blue tank sealer from Northern. I'm not a fan and wish I hadn't used it but so far so good on the gl tank. I also did a K2 tank but thing some of the sealer came loose or dissolved into the gas.

[Lucien Harpress]

Evapo-Rust is my main go-to.  Screens are kind of up to you.  I like the idea of having them, but it's not the end of the world if they go away.  There's a filter farther down the line that will catch anything.

The lines inside the tank have to stay- they're welded in.  I've found a clutch/throttle cable in a drill chuck makes a good snake to clean those lines out if they're plugged.  Run it one way to "tighten" the cable and help it feed in, then reverse it to "loosen" the wire so it scrapes the edges.  Those same lines are why any tank coatings make me uneasy.  It's too easy to clog them.  Your milage may vary, of course.

(Also, that drain bolt is regarded as fairly useless.  It's not the lowest part of the tank, so you can't empty the tank completely by using it.  And they have a nasty tendency to leak afterwards.  Most guys just leave them alone.)

[grcamna2]

Apex Brakes...contact Raymond Chan at 416-900-2594 or raymond@apexbrakes.com

Thanks.

[Stev-o]

Apex Brakes...contact Raymond Chan at 416-900-2594 or raymond@apexbrakes.com

Thanks.

Or....

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

The website shows what fittings will best fit your application.
I've sent him basic drawings that show exactly what I needed and what he made and sent were perfect.

[grcamna2]

Apex Brakes...contact Raymond Chan at 416-900-2594 or raymond@apexbrakes.com

Thanks.

Or....

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

The website shows what fittings will best fit your application.
I've sent him basic drawings that show exactly what I needed and what he made and sent were perfect.

Stev-o, do you think Raymond will sell me a standard replacement rubber line that's as good as the old OEM one I have now ?  Or do they only sell braided SS lines w/ different adapter ends ?

[Johnie]

I removed the fuel level sensor. The float doesn’t leak and the float arm moves freely. Can I put the unit in Metal Rescue (without the float) to clean it up or not. Also, the PO broke the male end off the contact. I was as going to solder it back on. Think it will work or might I do damage to the interior of the switch? I think I'll try a continuity test to see if it works now.

[BenelliSEI]

First use a meter and make sure it works, before spending time on it. Solder should work too.

[BenelliSEI]

Apex Brakes...contact Raymond Chan at 416-900-2594 or raymond@apexbrakes.com

Thanks.

Or....

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

The website shows what fittings will best fit your application.
I've sent him basic drawings that show exactly what I needed and what he made and sent were perfect.

Stev-o, do you think Raymond will sell me a standard replacement rubber line that's as good as the old OEM one I have now ?  Or do they only sell braided SS lines w/ different adapter ends ?

Apex (Raymond) only makes up Teflon lines over braided with stainless. He can cover them with a plastic cover in a huge array of colours. On my bikes I always ask for black. His fittings look much like the originals but you can easily spot them as hoses are a much smaller OD than a rubber hose.

[Johnie]

First use a meter and make sure it works, before spending time on it. Solder should work too.

I'm thinking of just cleaning up the outside of the case with my Dremel and not dipping it. Playing it safe...

[Johnie]

Evapo-Rust is my main go-to.  Screens are kind of up to you.  I like the idea of having them, but it's not the end of the world if they go away.  There's a filter farther down the line that will catch anything.

The lines inside the tank have to stay- they're welded in.  I've found a clutch/throttle cable in a drill chuck makes a good snake to clean those lines out if they're plugged.  Run it one way to "tighten" the cable and help it feed in, then reverse it to "loosen" the wire so it scrapes the edges.  Those same lines are why any tank coatings make me uneasy.  It's too easy to clog them.  Your milage may vary, of course.

(Also, that drain bolt is regarded as fairly useless.  It's not the lowest part of the tank, so you can't empty the tank completely by using it.  And they have a nasty tendency to leak afterwards.  Most guys just leave them alone.)

Thanks for the detail Lucien...helps me out so much.

[BenelliSEI]

First use a meter and make sure it works, before spending time on it. Solder should work too.

I'm thinking of just cleaning up the outside of the case with my Dremel and not dipping it. Playing it safe...

Check it first…. I worked on mine and then discovered I needed a replacement!