Topic: Greetings from NE Ohio

[rluser]

I have been looking for a 350 for a while and crossed paths with this '77 400 a couple weeks ago.


Weekend before last I stumbled through here looking for a wiring diagram and got her operational.  With about 150 miles on her since then it has become clear she needs a few more adjustments and some tuning.  There's almost no slack at the clutch lever and it slips when warm.  I got her into 6th for the first time on Saturday with an overinflated tire and it revealed the fork seals are a little sloppy.  There seems to be a bit of fuel burning in the exhaust system from time to time, and she idles too high when thoroughly warm.  I haven't had the carbs off or the plugs out yet.

The only other bike in the garage at the moment is an '88 Goldwing.

[RAFster122s]

Welcome fro Southern AZ.
A front fender will improve the fork stability to prevent flexing  and a fender will keep your motor cleaner and rocks from getting flung at you from the tire. If your fork stops don't prevent the fork from allowing your handle bars from contacting the tank if your bike gets dropped or bumped and knocked over your tank is likely to get a crease or bad dent from the handlebars from the looks of it...
I always prefer function over form. A better set of handlebars or adjustable clipons would better suit that purpose if you
 Like the low bars. Norman Hyde M bars many like.
Create a thread about the bike to document it if you wish to make mods and have records to reflect upon... Project Bikes section...

Welcome to the forums...

[newday777]

Welcome aboard from southern NH

[MD]

Welcome from NE Minnesosta,

-MD

[Gurp]

Welcome from the south east corner of your state!!

[rluser]

Welcome fro Southern AZ.
A front fender will improve the fork stability to prevent flexing

That thought had not yet occurred to me.

If your fork stops don't prevent the fork from allowing your handle bars from contacting the tank

The bars cannot reach the tank.

I always prefer function over form.

The previous owner certainly had a particular aesthetic. He had a pristine first year KZ650 and a full fendered Sportster 883, but none of the rest had front fenders, most had wrapped pipes, and many lacked visible turn signals.

Create a thread about the bike to document it if you wish to make mods and have records to reflect upon... Project Bikes section...

[...]

Welcome to the forums...

Thanks and thanks for the tips.

[rluser]

Welcome from the south east corner of your state!!

A twistier part

[Stev-o]

There's almost no slack at the clutch lever and it slips when warm.

Not sure I understand the "no slack" issue.   The clutch lever should have approx 10mm of free play.

If your clutch is slipping, I suggest changing the oil, the PO may not have used the correct oil.

Welcome to SOHC ownership!

[rluser]

There's almost no slack at the clutch lever and it slips when warm.

Not sure I understand the "no slack" issue.   The clutch lever should have approx 10mm of free play.

If your clutch is slipping, I suggest changing the oil, the PO may not have used the correct oil.

Welcome to SOHC ownership!

It has zero free play.  After this coffee, Ima do something about that.  Oil and filter after this tank of fuel.

[Stev-o]

There's almost no slack at the clutch lever and it slips when warm.

Not sure I understand the "no slack" issue.   The clutch lever should have approx 10mm of free play.

If your clutch is slipping, I suggest changing the oil, the PO may not have used the correct oil.

Welcome to SOHC ownership!

It has zero free play. 

Got it.  Do you have a service manual?  If no, download it here...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,17788.msg184793.html#msg184793

[rluser]

Got it.  Do you have a service manual?  If no, download it here...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,17788.msg184793.html#msg184793

Yes, I have a digital copy.  I may have picked  it up here.  Thanks.

On the slipping clutch, it was all in the actuation.  The cable is wrong, the adjuster at the case is missing.  Someone "one cheeked" it with an apparatus that merely rests on the machined area of the case.  I backed off the under-the-cover adjustment about an 1/8th turn (or maybe it was 5/8ths), freed the cable end from the split in the side of the under cover clutch lever, and gave it about 14mm of free play at the lever tip.

No more problems.  WOT 8k feather the clutch shifts grab firmly.

[tool14]

welcome aboard

[Alan F.]

Welcome, nice job figuring out that clutch cable.
You may want to change it out if you don't know how old it is.

[Stev-o]

Got it.  Do you have a service manual?  If no, download it here...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,17788.msg184793.html#msg184793

The cable is wrong, the adjuster at the case is missing.  Someone "one cheeked" it with an apparatus that merely rests on the machined area of the case. 

Gotta love what the PO's do to these bikes?!!!

[rluser]

Welcome, nice job figuring out that clutch cable.
You may want to change it out if you don't know how old it is.

I spent the test run hitting shops on the look for parts.  I am ok with it for now. It looks good except for the case end.  There the arrangement allows water in and there is rust development and grooves in the nipple from riding in the slot.

Gotta love what the PO's do to these bikes?!!!

My preliminary search suggests the right cable is hard to find.  I can probably get away with a '75-'76 type cable on this bike.  There's a NOS on ebay right now for 70 USD and I might have found 4 at a dealer in Illinois.

I had thought the wiring harness was in good shape, but it looks rather hacked up under the tank