Author Topic: Relay starter switch / rectifier question  (Read 451 times)

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Offline Jonm99

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Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« on: April 16, 2023, 04:22:32 AM »
Hi guys,

My bike died on me (electrically speaking) and after finally hunting down the culprit (bad connection on boot to relay from starter switxh/rectifier), I have a question regarding the installation of a new boot (lost the original, long story):
I found a replacement boot that differs from the original in two ways and I'm wondering if it matters.
1. It's got one hole to clamp down the shielded wires (as opposed to 2). Now normally I would assume this is a problem, however since both connect to the same pole on the relay, is it? Looking at the diagram, it seems that that is indeed the setup, but if it is, why is the part of the wiring BTW connector amd relay comprised of 2 shielded cables? I understand why that's the case north of the connector block, but south? Is it simply because connector blocks with 2 sockets on both ends is more common /cheaper than 1 to 2? Or is the original boot somehow insulating the incoming wires even when clamped closed? But if so, they are STILL connected to the same pole...
2. The diameter of the bolt hole is larger than the thread on the relay. Is contact with what looks like a ring at the bottom of the thread enough?

See pics for more clarity.

Thanks!
Jonathan
1977 cb750k with original airbox, PD41a carbs, slow jets=35, main jets=120, Delkevic 4in1 headers, 18" Cone engineering QC muffler, 7" headlight, dynatek ignition, ss r/r, clip ons, and ebc front brake rotor. All the rest stock, for now. First restoration, lots to learn!

Offline bryanj

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2023, 07:36:09 AM »
Dont understand what you mean by "boot"
Is the end terminal, silver coloured, that is loose in first picture.


Boot is normally used to describe a rubber part
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline Jonm99

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2023, 08:15:22 AM »
Sorry, yes, I meant the metal (silver) terminal.
1977 cb750k with original airbox, PD41a carbs, slow jets=35, main jets=120, Delkevic 4in1 headers, 18" Cone engineering QC muffler, 7" headlight, dynatek ignition, ss r/r, clip ons, and ebc front brake rotor. All the rest stock, for now. First restoration, lots to learn!

Offline bryanj

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2023, 09:32:27 AM »
OK get two of the terminals and put one on each,OR if your soldering is good solder the ends of the cable together then crimp/solder into the one.
The are both shielded as on is connected direct to battery, not a good idea to short it and the othe is 12v ish supply from rectifier/alternator to charge battery, as diodes do not pass reverse current the battery cant back feed.

Hope that makes sense.

If it were me i would use 2 seperate ring terminals
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline Jonm99

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2023, 12:37:33 PM »
Thanks Bryan, I think I understand. If option number 1 (not sure I have enough wiggle room to angle two ring terminals), what would be the reason for soldering before crimping, as opposed to just twisting them together and crimping? In both cases they will be crimped into the terminal. Will the solder provide for a better connection, or less chance of getting ripped out of the terminal? My soldering skills are OK -, hence the question :-)
If nevertheless I go with the second option, is it OK that the new ring terminals are not as thick as the one original? Each one will be connected to one wire instead of two, suppose than it would be OK, no? Not sure how these ring terminals are measured / rated for compatibility...


Thanks again!
1977 cb750k with original airbox, PD41a carbs, slow jets=35, main jets=120, Delkevic 4in1 headers, 18" Cone engineering QC muffler, 7" headlight, dynatek ignition, ss r/r, clip ons, and ebc front brake rotor. All the rest stock, for now. First restoration, lots to learn!

Offline bryanj

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2023, 05:17:03 PM »
Solder to make sure both wires have electrical connection and ring terminals are by cable size and amp load plus hole size
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline Jonm99

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Re: Relay starter switch / rectifier question
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2023, 10:50:13 PM »
Roger that.

Thanks again!
1977 cb750k with original airbox, PD41a carbs, slow jets=35, main jets=120, Delkevic 4in1 headers, 18" Cone engineering QC muffler, 7" headlight, dynatek ignition, ss r/r, clip ons, and ebc front brake rotor. All the rest stock, for now. First restoration, lots to learn!