Topic: What are all the cool kids using for electronic ignition these days? '70 CB750K

[greenjeans]

I'm more of a points guys, but I have a 1970 CB750 that wants electronic ignition.   Not really a fan of Dana - had 2 fail in the last 15 years.   Any new, reliable options out there?

[Scootch]

I installed Mark's electronic ignition where you keep the points but have the advantage of the electronics doing the switching. Sort of the best of both worlds...
But I probably don't count bcz I've always been a nerd and never one of the beautiful people.

[ekpent]

Terry and maybe Per and some others were buying a set-up like this on E-bay and we have been waiting to hear how they work out. 53 bucks - cheap cheap cheap-   https://www.ebay.com/itm/394556414613?hash=item5bdd651a95:g:wMkAAOSwIPhh0k1g&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8HtmpkuVbRpspYaJl2lfv1A%2F%2F9fp2%2BKy%2FRrEEjst9nME7G1y8CarvBaJEN3sbFBxNR5sH3ZV%2B4ubp1Z59ljXFVfdQvChC2OBEmO15JNtav3vIGp%2B6mmr70htjZwR8W7QBkom%2FTLdRgNecc2%2FBVa9bFJdi5%2FPqqBT183tURRUkw9f4ODcvDXU2FMiyHH%2Bc3kgf5h3aFwNQ9X5oGWWl2jKyMngUOzz55oB6TcOxKbR9ba%2BOBVEC%2BZbdCkNhxwW%2FMBI%2B%2FbAZhWPIeS3WL75G9DrS%2FklE3TyZgiBuebLo6zI19%2FttdabHQb2p2IcBeUbclQPZQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMroqck_1h

[rocket johnny]

+1  for hondamans elect ignition ,, easy to install ,  works great ,,   if it takes a crap , unplug it and keep going ,,  no worries

[WideAWAKE]

Terry and maybe Per and some others were buying a set-up like this on E-bay and we have been waiting to hear how they work out. 53 bucks - cheap cheap cheap-   https://www.ebay.com/itm/394556414613?hash=item5bdd651a95:g:wMkAAOSwIPhh0k1g&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8HtmpkuVbRpspYaJl2lfv1A%2F%2F9fp2%2BKy%2FRrEEjst9nME7G1y8CarvBaJEN3sbFBxNR5sH3ZV%2B4ubp1Z59ljXFVfdQvChC2OBEmO15JNtav3vIGp%2B6mmr70htjZwR8W7QBkom%2FTLdRgNecc2%2FBVa9bFJdi5%2FPqqBT183tURRUkw9f4ODcvDXU2FMiyHH%2Bc3kgf5h3aFwNQ9X5oGWWl2jKyMngUOzz55oB6TcOxKbR9ba%2BOBVEC%2BZbdCkNhxwW%2FMBI%2B%2FbAZhWPIeS3WL75G9DrS%2FklE3TyZgiBuebLo6zI19%2FttdabHQb2p2IcBeUbclQPZQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMroqck_1h

I have about 600 miles (7-8 75ish mile rides) on mine with no problems.

[stocky]

Terry and maybe Per and some others were buying a set-up like this on E-bay and we have been waiting to hear how they work out. 53 bucks - cheap cheap cheap-   https://www.ebay.com/itm/394556414613?hash=item5bdd651a95:g:wMkAAOSwIPhh0k1g&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8HtmpkuVbRpspYaJl2lfv1A%2F%2F9fp2%2BKy%2FRrEEjst9nME7G1y8CarvBaJEN3sbFBxNR5sH3ZV%2B4ubp1Z59ljXFVfdQvChC2OBEmO15JNtav3vIGp%2B6mmr70htjZwR8W7QBkom%2FTLdRgNecc2%2FBVa9bFJdi5%2FPqqBT183tURRUkw9f4ODcvDXU2FMiyHH%2Bc3kgf5h3aFwNQ9X5oGWWl2jKyMngUOzz55oB6TcOxKbR9ba%2BOBVEC%2BZbdCkNhxwW%2FMBI%2B%2FbAZhWPIeS3WL75G9DrS%2FklE3TyZgiBuebLo6zI19%2FttdabHQb2p2IcBeUbclQPZQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMroqck_1h

Hope they keep us updated as my pamco is currently suspect for cutting spark to 1&4 when getting hot. Just started a troubleshooting thread on it today.

[70CB750]

I use Pamco without problems.  Put 25 000 miles on it on 1970 CB750 and not sure how many on Red.  Two units, good experience with both. 

[dave500]

ive run the boyer units trouble free on a few bikes,its one of those things?ive heard of plenty of dyna failures but how much is installer error?some guys cant even get a headlight to work and at the same time install electronic ignition etc and its all the products fault?i never chime in on electricals because i HAVE to see it first hand.

[Tracksnblades1]

I installed Mark's electronic ignition where you keep the points but have the advantage of the electronics doing the switching. Sort of the best of both worlds...
But I probably don't count bcz I've always been a nerd and never one of the beautiful people.

😂🤣😂

Just as long as you still believe you’re the exception like the beautiful people….

[dave500]

millions and millions and i think millions of cars and bikes all use electronic ignitions and have done for years?you dont see heaps of cars all scattered around road side broken down?

[Deltarider]

Over 20 years ago, I decided to make my own, as the market did not provide a system I would feel comfortable with in my journeys to far away countries, where, in the event of a failure, I would not have a back up. Mine is just an impudent copycat of the well known Velleman K2543 kit (X2). In this setup the breakerpoints switch the control current, reduced in amps to just enough to stay clean. My breakerpoints have done som 60.000 km now. The power switching is taken over by a socalled Darlington transistor, designed back then, especially for this purpose, by Texas Instruments. It can switch up to 500 Hz/s! In our two coil set up, switching at 10.000 rpm is only a 167 Hz, so lots of reserve.
For a good understanding, read the following.
The stock Kettering ignition as designed by Honda is more than adequate to give the energy needed at the sparkplugs electrodes at all speeds. Realise that all Mike Hailwood's victories were on bikes with breakerpoints. EI's in general may give some improvement at starts and in low and very high rpms. Do not expect a gain in midrange however. The spark is only needed to ignite just that little bit of mixture around the plug's electrodes. From there the travelling flame front will do the rest of the combustion. Imagining this process in slow motion, will help you understand. Some folks proudly claim they have a spark 'of a welding torch' and even widen the sparkplugs gap. They only demonstrate their ignorance. The only result will be a much quicker eroding of the sparkplug's electrodes.
Typical spark duration of my kit is 2000 μs (2 ms). In tests it performed even better. The rise time of the Velleman is pretty short with only 25 μs (see graph). All in all, lots of reserve.
My kit is stored high and dry where there is no risk of vibrations, high temperatures or water ingress. Maintenance is limited to check the cam is still lubed, say every 6000km. At the start of every season, it is my habit to do a quick test to check if the dwell angle is still constant at all rpms.

[willbird]

Over 20 years ago, I decided to make my own, as the market did not provide a system I would feel comfortable with in my journeys to far away countries, where, in the event of a failure, I would not have a back up. Mine is just an impudent copycat of the well known Velleman K2543 kit (X2). In this setup the breakerpoints switch the control current, reduced in amps to just enough to stay clean. My breakerpoints have done som 60.000 km now. The power switching is taken over by a socalled Darlington transistor, designed back then, especially for this purpose, by Texas Instruments. It can switch up to 500 Hz/s! In our two coil set up, switching at 10.000 rpm is only a 167 Hz, so lots of reserve.
For a good understanding, read the following.
The stock Kettering ignition as designed by Honda is more than adequate to give the energy needed at the sparkplugs electrodes at all speeds. Realise that all Mike Hailwood's victories were on bikes with breakerpoints. EI's in general may give some improvement at starts and in low and very high rpms. Do not expect a gain in midrange however. The spark is only needed to ignite just that little bit of mixture around the plug's electrodes. From there the travelling flame front will do the rest of the combustion. Imagining this process in slow motion, will help you understand. Some folks proudly claim they have a spark 'of a welding torch' and even widen the sparkplugs gap. They only demonstrate their ignorance. The only result will be a much quicker eroding of the sparkplug's electrodes.
Typical spark duration of my kit is 2000 μs (2 ms). In tests it performed even better. The rise time of the Velleman is pretty short with only 25 μs (see graph). All in all, lots of reserve.
My kit is stored high and dry where there is no risk of vibrations, high temperatures or water ingress. Maintenance is limited to check the cam is still lubed, say every 6000km. At the start of every season, it is my habit to do a quick test to check if the dwell angle is still constant at all rpms.

Some of the areas where I work are explosive atmospheres, or the potential is there anyway. We use a type of isolator for dry contacts that uses a protocol called NAMUR. Pretty interesting to dig into. Breaker points would last forever using that type of operation.

NAMUR abbreviation stands for the German term "Normenarbeitsgemeinschaft für Meß- und
Regelungstechnik in der Chemischen Industrie" which translates to "Association for Standardization of
Measurement and Control Engineering in the Chemical Industry"

This document explains it to a level deeper than I can grasp at present, I just get the basics of it ;-).

https://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tiduel4/tiduel4.pdf?ts=1683273677623&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F#:~:text=2.4.3-,NAMUR%20Digital%20Input,sensor%20to%20detect%20its%20state.

[PeWe]

I ordered 2 "Dyna-S" cheap from eBay USA.
Have not tested any of them yet.  Look exact as the original except for labels.

I also ordered Dyna style 5 ohm coils from China very cheap.

Both my CB750 have original Dyna-S.  One with Dyna 5 ohm coils, the other with new stock Honda coils.

It was the earlier type of  Dyna-S that had issues according to threads on this forum I have read.

I have a 3rd CB750 to build so 1 ignition will be used.
Good to have a spare.

Really simple to set a Dyna-S again after an engine job.
I marked plate and case with a marker pen before engine job lifting head etc and new cam timing.
Ignition back on with pen marks as it sat.
A quick check with timing light showed spot on.

Points took much longer time making both points eqaual with dwell meter.

Do not forget to cut advancer springs, important step to make engine to run good from idle and up.
My K6 makes good power with that setup.

For first time, set the rotor correct, plate in middle position. 12v feed and blue, yellow wires connected to main harness.
Start engine, adjust to correct position with timing lamp.
Make sure to strap wires away from the rotating rotor and nut.

Dyna instruction is like a fault tracing guide.

[C317414]

ive run the boyer units trouble free on a few bikes,its one of those things?ive heard of plenty of dyna failures but how much is installer error?some guys cant even get a headlight to work and at the same time install electronic ignition etc and its all the products fault?i never chime in on electricals because i HAVE to see it first hand.

I second the use of Boyer Ignitions.  I installed and sold many of them on British bikes, when I worked at a shop, and I've never seen one fail.  My personal Norton Commando has had one installed since the late 70s.  The nice thing about a Boyer ignition is that it eliminates the mechanical advance. 

[rotortiller]

Lots of good devices out there. My suggestion is to buy direct from Asia and avoid a mark-up and re-label. As soon as you get a couple of useless parasitic middle men in there things quickly go south price wise. Look for something priced right with a historical background, go for full pointless electronic. Some products actually discard the mechanical advance unit for electronic. Pick your poison by budget and functional needs is the best advice I have. Avoid nut swinger advice at all costs lol!

[willbird]

I saw post in another thread here where somebody was using a 90's GSXR 750 ignition. The rotor dropped right on and he had to figure out how to fasten the pickup to the breaker plate. It had built in 22 degree advance so no mechanical spark advance needed. I googled the parts a bit but did not get far.

[C317414]

Lots of good devices out there. My suggestion is to buy direct from Asia and avoid a mark-up and re-label. As soon as you get a couple of useless parasitic middle men in there things quickly go south price wise. Look for something priced right with a historical background, go for full pointless electronic. Some products actually discard the mechanical advance unit for electronic. Pick your poison by budget and functional needs is the best advice I have. Avoid nut swinger advice at all costs lol!

This will not work with Boyer Bransden ignition.  They are made in the UK.

[gunr]

I'm in the same boat. I have ordered a new Dyna for my 77.
Backstory is this was my cousin's bike that i now own.  I put a Dyna in it for him about eight years ago, give or take a year.
The bike wasn't running great so I pulled the electronic system out and put a points plate back in. It ran better but seems to have a slower power curve, but I understand it's set up different than my 73.
These were old points that I just cleaned up. Today I put a new set of points from Tiawan that seemed well built but the timing won't come into range. 
I can't retard the timing as I've run out of adjustment in the plate slots.
This makes me wonder if my advance springs are weak.
PeWe mentions clipping the springs and I may try that.  How many coils have you cut off PeWe?
I question whether clipping and bending the spring won't lead to it breaking during a ride.
I also went to Yamiya's site and found replacement springs...Great, give me six and I'll have spares for my brothers.
I get to where I pay and it says 26,000 Yen.  Well that's 200 bucks in round numbers!   I asked the if I ordered six cases of springs but they haven't answered yet. 

[Tracksnblades1]

I'm in the same boat. I have ordered a new Dyna for my 77.
Backstory is this was my cousin's bike that i now own.  I put a Dyna in it for him about eight years ago, give or take a year.
The bike wasn't running great so I pulled the electronic system out and put a points plate back in. It ran better but seems to have a slower power curve, but I understand it's set up different than my 73.
These were old points that I just cleaned up. Today I put a new set of points from Tiawan that seemed well built but the timing won't come into range. 
I can't retard the timing as I've run out of adjustment in the plate slots.
This makes me wonder if my advance springs are weak.
PeWe mentions clipping the springs and I may try that.  How many coils have you cut off PeWe?
I question whether clipping and bending the spring won't lead to it breaking during a ride.
I also went to Yamiya's site and found replacement springs...Great, give me six and I'll have spares for my brothers.
I get to where I pay and it says 26,000 Yen.  Well that's 200 bucks in round numbers!   I asked the if I ordered six cases of springs but they haven't answered yet.

TEC points are considered the best.
You’re chasing the same symptoms of aftermarket points installation others on the forum have for years. To advanced static timing. The slots in the plate won’t let you retard it far enough. If you’re going to continue running points, I’d order a new complete TEC point plate from south Honda.

And watch all your ting problems disappear 😇

[PeWe]

I cut off the loop that hook spring into the advancer.
Then make a new loop by bending the first wound up.

This work fine. Both my bikes have that, both springs.

Here first time when my advancer advanced direct, full advance before 2000rpm. No spring force until 1/8 turn of the rotor.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,131339.msg1464986.html#msg1464986

This is an obvious adjustment.
It will only improve.

[Deltarider]

My CB500 has done 140.000 kms now and I have never experienced sloppy springs. I must have done something wrong, I guess . Also a used spare advancer that I bought second hand, doesn't show sloppiness. Both are TEC.
Frankly I never quite understood this coil cutting thing, apart from possibly, possibly curing a somewhat wandering idle. I trust Honda choose the right advance for my model and any CB500/550s advancer will hit its stops already @ 2500 rpm anyway, which is within a fraction of a second after you open the throttle. The way I ride my bike, the TEC is fully avanced 99% of the time. So... what's the deal? BTW, this is not the first time I asked for an answer. So far I never had it. Often I have the impression that a problem which may, I repeat may, occur with CB750s, is generalised/transferred to other models.

[Don R]

 If you ever had the floppy springs you would understand. RPM's all over the place, low and high depending on the advancer's mood and hanging idle.
 I've got Dyna, Pamco, stock, and a Gerex as well. They all work. I also have two types of ARD mags although I haven't tried to run one on a daily runner yet.

[70CB750]

If you ever had the floppy springs you would understand. RPM's all over the place, low and high depending on the advancer's mood and hanging idle.

Exactly.    I shortened springs on Dorothy and I still remember the difference it made.

[Deltarider]

If you ever had the floppy springs you would understand. RPM's all over the place, low and high depending on the advancer's mood and hanging idle.

I fail to understand this. As I see it, over 2500 rpm, a CB500/550 advancer is in full advance position anyhow, because of centrifugal force, no matter how sloppy springs are. When, throttle released, RPM drop to an acceptable but maybe not a 100% perfect idle, what's the problem?
Further I'd like to know what advancer has this sloppy spring problem, the TEC, the Hitachi or both? Mine (TEC) have not.

[rotortiller]

As I see it, over 2500 rpm, a CB500/550 advancer is in full advance position anyhow, because of centrifugal force, no matter how sloppy springs are. When, throttle released, RPM drop to an acceptable but maybe not a 100% perfect idle, what's the problem?

None lol, placebo maybe? I can see a tighter spring maybe reducing slop and rattling when ramping rpm, but I'm with you WTF would that matter after 2.5 grand on an old Briggs and Stratton tank.

[PeWe]

My K6 had full advance before 2000rpm. This with Pamco ignition. Totally impossible to get it running evenly. Then with CX-7 cam. (Close to Megacycle 125-75)

Thanks to Hondaman's written thoughts and other forum members experiences I could fix it by cutting the springs.
After that fix full advance at around 2600 rpm, maybe a little later, but not after 2700rpm. That is explained in the old thread when I had that problem late 2013.

After Pamco I used TEC points with Hondaman unit and Dyna-S since dyno runs indicated eventually bouncing points after 8000 rpm.

An engine with hotter cam get more stable idle this way holding the advance.
Also a stock.
This is visible with timing lamp, marks will be seen as stable, not jumping around.

My K2 that is almost fully stock except for Cruzinimage +0.50mm K7 pistons, K7 cam and Yamiya no numbers 4-4.
I could not get the TEC ignition to retard enough so F lined up with case mark. Plate max clockwise.
It was an irritating mm or 2 advanced. I tried with points at max gap.

I cut the springs and it lined up exact at full clockwise position.
Also that bike got later a Dyna-S.
With Dyna-S no problem with ignition plate not enough clockwise.
It work fine in the middle to start with, fine tune with timing lamp at idle.

My K6 original advancer springs were really sloppy. I could rotate cam several degrees until springs hold it back.
Better when springs hold the cam from the first degree.

My K6 that has been rather modified, now with 970cc, ported head, Megacycle 125-75 cam and very responsive Mikuni TMR32 flatslide carbs runs very evenly when carbs are properly jetted.
The nice idle and relatively smooth rpm increase at take offs should not be possible with too early advance.

That cam is often seen as rather hot but behaves good with stable idle at 1200rpm. 1000rpm is possible but the rather high compression make it to run rather hard, 1200rpm work better.

I prefer 1200rpm on my almost stock K2 too. Easier at take offs, ensure oil pressure too.
I doubt that a Dyna 2000 with 4 different advance curves without advancer unit should make anything better.

Stock advancer with cut springs deliver what needed.
I have it documented on Dyno charts

The racer guys should save money using Dyna-S with stock advancer with cut springs instead of buying the more expensive Dyna 2000 avoiding the advancer.

Cut springs will not harm the engine, only doing better.
If cutting one loop on one side of a spring, the loop that is attached to something.  Bend out the outer end and a new loop is made. Form it with 2 pliers and hook it in place.

[Deltarider]

I just try to establish whether 'sloppy springs' is a genuine CB500/550 issue or one that has been transferred from an issue the CB750 may have had. Such a transfer has happened before, when the central bolt on a CB500/550 ignition, the one which fastens the advancer (#15 in the pic), was said to become bent causing a possible misalignment. I have never seen one which had that problem. Not on a CB500/550 that is. I know that on the CB750 this central bolt could cause a problem.   

[greenjeans]

ive run the boyer units trouble free on a few bikes,its one of those things?ive heard of plenty of dyna failures but how much is installer error?some guys cant even get a headlight to work and at the same time install electronic ignition etc and its all the products fault?i never chime in on electricals because i HAVE to see it first hand.

Ah, somehow I forgot about Boyer.  I have one on my '70 Tiger 650.   I do love that it eliminated the advance.   I think this may be the winner.

I second the use of Boyer Ignitions.  I installed and sold many of them on British bikes, when I worked at a shop, and I've never seen one fail.  My personal Norton Commando has had one installed since the late 70s.  The nice thing about a Boyer ignition is that it eliminates the mechanical advance. 

[Scootch]

Would you guys please elaborate on the Boyer units. I'd like to know more about them and their design.

[seanbarney41]

Hondaman on one of my bikes for years now.  Absolutely no point adjustment needed for last 20k miles or so (no odometer on bike)  I have checked and lubed the points cam...not even once a year.

[bryanj]

Family firm in UK started with units for triumphs, nortons and bsa, very good reputation forreliability and backup. Never known a unit fail but personaly not keen on firing all coils at one.
I once ran for a fault finding chart/process and arrived within hours with honest comment that they have never had one back unless physically damaged or wired wrong

[Bailgang]

but personaly not keen on firing all coils at one.

Yeah but there is some sort of "voodoo" electronics going on that I can't explain. I've got a boyer on my 750 and noticed right away when wiring up the coils that they were wired in series which I thought was odd. I mean you have a wire from both the 1 and 4 pickup and another one from the 2 and 3 pickup, both going into the unit but only 1 wire for the negative side of the coil coming out so you would naturally think both coils fire at the same time essentially giving you a double wasted spark but this is where it gets weird because my timing light doesn't see it. What I mean is that if I have my timing light on the 1 or 4 wire, my timing light will only see the 1 and 4 mark on the advance. You would think that with the coils wired in series that I should randomly see the 2 and 3 mark as well but I don't. If I want to see the 2 and 3 mark I have to put the inductive lead of my timing light on a 2 or 3 plug wire and even then I will only see the 2 and 3 timing mark. So my question to all of you boyer users is if both coils fires at the same time (being how they're wired you'd think they would) then how come my timing light doesn't see it? Is it just me? Do I need a new timing light? To all you boyer users, put your timing light on and check for yourself and let me know what you see because I sure would like to know.

For those of you interested in a boyer bransden ignition, please note that they will not work with an external rev limiter, it actually has one built in but if you buy one from a dealer/seller, that built in rev limiter isn't activated nor can it be once the "brain box" has been made. If you want your boyer with a rev limiter, you have to contact boyer directly and specify what rpm limit you want and they will program that as they make it. I thought I had issues with mine and sent it back to them and figured while they had it that maybe they could program the rev limiter. They told me they couldn't, they can only do that as they are making it. They offered me a sweet deal on a new unit with the rev limiter set at my desired rpm but I passed because I didn't have the spare funds. The problem I thought I was having with the boyer turned out to be my fault. One of my soldered connectors broke but I couldn't see it because of the heat shrink I had on it and the unit was actually fine.

[C317414]

Would you guys please elaborate on the Boyer units. I'd like to know more about them and their design.

Boyer has two distributors in the US:  Coventry Spares, and JRC Engineering.  Both specialize in spares for classic and vintage British bikes, and neither sell retail.  JRC recently started stocking Boyer ignitions for Honda fours.  Look for a shop that deals in classic British bikes, and ask them to order the ignition from JRC.

[dave500]

on the boyer bailgang with the timing light,if you look close the 1/4 and 2/3 marks sort of ghost as it flashes,at least mine does,i like them,if i didnt have boyer id be happy to use those cheap units you see kokurin or something?when setting up the boyer timing,just increase the rpm with a timing light and watch it advance till it stops,then just set the plate where you want the full advance to be,i go just a touch past that second hash mark,where the f mark is at idle dont worry about it.

[Old Scrambler]

I had a Dyna-S on my race bike with no problems. Now learning to install an Ignetech unit which is similar to a Dyna-2000 but about $100 less and considered more reliable. My unit has a black-box so I will be able to set a rev-limiter and use ignition-retard maps for high RPM performance. They did not send the correct signal disk so now waiting for a replacement.

[Bailgang]

on the boyer bailgang with the timing light,if you look close the 1/4 and 2/3 marks sort of ghost as it flashes,at least mine does,i like them,if i didnt have boyer id be happy to use those cheap units you see kokurin or something?when setting up the boyer timing,just increase the rpm with a timing light and watch it advance till it stops,then just set the plate where you want the full advance to be,i go just a touch past that second hash mark,where the f mark is at idle dont worry about it.

I definitely need a new timing light, the one I have doesn't work well on any of my bikes.

[PeWe]

on the boyer bailgang with the timing light,if you look close the 1/4 and 2/3 marks sort of ghost as it flashes,at least mine does,i like them,if i didnt have boyer id be happy to use those cheap units you see kokurin or something?when setting up the boyer timing,just increase the rpm with a timing light and watch it advance till it stops,then just set the plate where you want the full advance to be,i go just a touch past that second hash mark,where the f mark is at idle dont worry about it.

I definitely need a new timing light, the one I have doesn't work well on any of my bikes.

Tried to use a separate battery? Not the battery on bike you check the timing.

I use an old motorcycle battery, good enough for timing light.

Battery on floor beside ignition makes it easier too

[Bailgang]

Tried to use a separate battery? Not the battery on bike you check the timing.

I use an old motorcycle battery, good enough for timing light.

Battery on floor beside ignition makes it easier too

I just recently read about using a separate battery when using a timing light on a motorcycle, I just haven't tried it yet. I would still like to compare my timing light to another one, preferably one that doesn't have an advance function just to make sure the one I currently have is accurate. Mine does have an advance feature and I just want to make sure it's still working properly being it's at least 30 years old. Years ago I was with my nephew at a drag strip and his car was pinging like crazy and he had to back off his timing a bunch until it stopped. Considering the comp ratio of the engine and fuel it was using, it should've been just fine with the total advance he had initially set it at but he had to back off timing at least 10 degrees to get the engine to behave. That didn't make sense to me so I told him he should try another timing light to confirm his timing light was ok. My nephew blew my suggestion off saying it was a Mac Tool timing light that cost him $300 so it had to be accurate ..... uhm no it wasn't but he didn't find that out until a few days later when he finally did try another timing light.