Topic: Steering Head Bearing Seal

[The Lone Builder]

A couple of weeks back, I tightened my steering head bearings on my K2, which improved handling a fair bit.

Yesterday, I noticed what I take to be the rubber on the lower seal sticking out as per the photo - I have All Balls roller bearings in there! Is there anything else it could be?

Is this caused by me, over tightening the bearings?

I will fix it, but my questions are:
1.  Do I have to do it immediately? I guess it won't do the bearings much good if I leave it for too long.
2.  Is there anything I can do other than buy a new complete set of bearings? Do All Balls sell the seals as a separate item?

[bryanj]

The bearings do not have seals on them, there is a "rubber" waher that is loose and can go under the inner race which is what appears to be sticking out.
This should not be between the lower bearing inner race and the stop on the stem, it should be arround the raised shoulder on the stem and i think it is a Honda part not a "kit" part

[The Lone Builder]

Hi Brian,

The All Ball kit is as in the pic. In the original set-up, there is a washer and then as you say a separate rubber dust seal. But you are absolutely correct; neither should be where this one is! 

The seal sits on the bottom washer, below the bearing itself and I think it is probably the rubber that has become detached.

Questions are why and what must I do about it.

[bryanj]

Considering what has to be done to get at it, and taking the fact that this is probably not going to be doing a high anual mileage i would remove the rubber and use the bike, yes if grit gets in there it will wear the bearing prematurely, as in several years instead of decades, then you have all the same work replacing them again

[newday777]

From installing multiple sets in goldwing servicing and a set in a 750, I'd say you might not have set the seal properly on the bearing before setting the bearing tight and the seal has been out of place causing the rubber failure, and which will give uneven torque in your bearings.
Unfortunately you can't get that lower bearing off without damaging it so yes a new set with a seal is your needed fix. Running it that way will allow water and dirt in the bearings and rust along with fast premature wear of the race and bearing and loose torque. Is your steering giving you wobbles? Is that why you tightened the bearings?
How did you tighten the bearings?
Am I wrong in my thinking you didn't use a castle nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the bearings?

[bryanj]

I dont know of any dealer who uses a torque wrench on that nut

[bryanj]

That seal only seams to be in the all balls kit and not others so all other manufacturers seem happy to leave the bearing open, if well greased on assembly and unless you direct a high pressure jet directly upwards into the headstock they will still last a decent time, yes not as long as when sealed but long enough

[newday777]

I dont know of any dealer who uses a torque wrench on that nut

Traxxion Suspension specialists and Honda dealers do use the socket and torque wrench on goldwings. It gives the best results.

[The Lone Builder]

From installing multiple sets in goldwing servicing and a set in a 750, I'd say you might not have set the seal properly on the bearing before setting the bearing tight and the seal has been out of place causing the rubber failure, and which will give uneven torque in your bearings.
Unfortunately you can't get that lower bearing off without damaging it so yes a new set with a seal is your needed fix. Running it that way will allow water and dirt in the bearings and rust along with fast premature wear of the race and bearing and loose torque. Is your steering giving you wobbles? Is that why you tightened the bearings?
How did you tighten the bearings?
Am I wrong in my thinking you didn't use a castle nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the bearings?

The steering just felt a bit imprecise - a bit like when there is insufficient air in the front tyre, but not as bad; it sort of fell into corners. But then like everything else, you get used to it, until either you fix /change it, or someone else points it out. Steering definitely became more positive when I tightened things up.

And of course you are right; I didn't use a torque wrench - I used a rear shock c-spanner.

I have a new set ordered and have also asked All Balls if they sell the seal separately, so ...

[rotortiller]

The tapered bearings on the Honda do not require much torque, in fact too much will add friction, binding and early wear. The intent is to remove all slop but not to pinch the snot out of them. Once adjusted, the top triple tree center nut should lock the adjustment provided the top fork clamps are loose during nut tightening. All balls suggest using the manufacturers specs for tightening which is a general cop out especially going from one type of bearing to another. My advice is to not to preload excessively to the point of adding binding and/or excessive friction. Rip the seal out,  ride and functionally inspect until the next steering stem servicing.

Edit: Some manuals suggest torquing to seat bearings at about 30 ft/lbs then backing off completely then torque to 5-10 ft/lbs with final slop and binding checks which makes good sense. Modern bikes have steering stem jam nuts, ours do not so maybe a bit of medium loctite on threads for me next time.