Topic: Front Brake Woes

[Kevin D]

Anybody ever seen pad wear like this? The rear edge of the moving pad is worn about 1/8" more than the front edge. I have new Vesrah pads to install. Also, I need to replace a cracked lower hose - it's the original.
Options are 1) Sirius rubber $32     2) Honda OE about $90     3) Speigler stainless $109   4) HEL stainless $??
I've seen the recent good notices on HEL, anybody ever use Speigler?

[Kevin D]

Cracked hose, no leaks, stops good, but this is a safety item :

[DME]

The pad wear is normal. They always seem to wear uneven.

As for the hose:
take the hose to your local hydraulics dealer and ask him to make a copy of it in your material of choice.
I would definately go for stainless.
It´ll cost you a fraction of the brands you´ve mentioned and will do the same job.

Cheers
Dan

[bwaller]

Try Dans advise, but if you don't get any satisfaction I'll give Speigler the nod, great service.

[BobbyR]

If Dan's advice turns out to be impacitical in your area. HEL did a great job on mine and it was very affordable.

[Kevin D]

I stopped by the local automotive Speed Shop today and found that they may have Aeroquip teflon/stainless braid hoses available with appropriate fittings for Honda/metric. About $40 for a pair. Generally made for cars but a brake line is a brake line, isn't it? 4000psi rated. Something about size 3 or size 4 - dunno how that translates to Honda.

Speigler is in Dayton, OH - nearby.
HEL is in FLA?

[wardmoto]

The standards for the aviation industry are insane...Aeroquip is great stuff.  I fear perhaps, that you may ultimately spend more $ getting the Aeroquip lines to work with the Honda hardware and have zero perceived or real benefit when compared to motorcycle industry stuff.  Honestly, once I decided to ditch my originality and go with a modern mastercylinder (CBR 600 F3, e bay 50$) and the appropriate lines (and hardware) from Dennis Kirk (Goodridge lines) in conjunction with my beloved speed bleeder, I could, not be happier.  Honda's SOHC brakes sucked so bad back then when compared with bikes of 15 years ago, let alone modern monobloc calipers, that it is not that hard to improve  them.  I have a bone stock 350F (original lines, M/C, pads)...this compared to my cafe 350F with stainless lines(ditched the goofey stock "hard pipe" line around the fork tube), new pads, new piston seal and aforementioned master cylinder is no comparison.  My cafe compaired to my SV 1000's stainless lines, upgraded pads and worked fork is insane.  While I enjoy going fast when smart and appropriate, being able to stop is heaps more important...spend a few bucks on your brakes and practice panic stops....you will be in for a rude awakening if you never do.  Once that front tire is loaded appropriately, there is huge braking potential available.  Target fixation induced rear brake stab will get you killed...Now that I depressed the hell out of you (reality can do that) if there is any interest in part#'s and prices, ask as I have detailed files on my build with respect to lines and fittings.

[KB02]

As for your pad wear, double check the whole brake set up and make sure that everything is free and not bound up. A seized pivot arm will cause wear like that in a heart beat.

[BobbyR]

The standards for the aviation industry are insane...Aeroquip is great stuff.  I fear perhaps, that you may ultimately spend more $ getting the Aeroquip lines to work with the Honda hardware and have zero perceived or real benefit when compared to motorcycle industry stuff.  Honestly, once I decided to ditch my originality and go with a modern mastercylinder (CBR 600 F3, e bay 50$) and the appropriate lines (and hardware) from Dennis Kirk (Goodridge lines) in conjunction with my beloved speed bleeder, I could, not be happier.  Honda's SOHC brakes sucked so bad back then when compared with bikes of 15 years ago, let alone modern monobloc calipers, that it is not that hard to improve  them.  I have a bone stock 350F (original lines, M/C, pads)...this compared to my cafe 350F with stainless lines(ditched the goofey stock "hard pipe" line around the fork tube), new pads, new piston seal and aforementioned master cylinder is no comparison.  My cafe compaired to my SV 1000's stainless lines, upgraded pads and worked fork is insane.  While I enjoy going fast when smart and appropriate, being able to stop is heaps more important...spend a few bucks on your brakes and practice panic stops....you will be in for a rude awakening if you never do.  Once that front tire is loaded appropriately, there is huge braking potential available.  Target fixation induced rear brake stab will get you killed...Now that I depressed the hell out of you (reality can do that) if there is any interest in part#'s and prices, ask as I have detailed files on my build with respect to lines and fittings.

Actually I would like to know what you did. If you look at the rotor it is huge. I beleive the master cylinders were limited by design since they were afraid of overbraking. Just going to braided lines really made a difference for me.

[wardmoto]

BobbyR...
I wanted to keep certain aspects of my 350F cafe original and tie other aspects into Honda's factory "RC" efforts as well as the privateer "CR" efforts. My m/c was junk and I did not have the patience to obtain the appropriate snap ring pliers to rebuild it and allow me to brake my "looks fast as hell" cafe project with 1972 standards.  Besides, the period correct m/c's were more hateful ($) than later years on ebay.  I got a CBR F3 m/c and a limited # of connections (I had to shorten the banjo bolts..no big deal) the stainless line and new pads all acting on the stock disc for what I feel is a fair price.  I kept all specific part #'s and info if you want that.  I also have a stock 72 350F (with exhaust!!!) that I compare the brakes to, and I know the magazines of the era raved about the OEM binders...but damn!...they suck!  Let me know if you want more info as I am a cheap bastard and I feel I got my $'s worth!

[Kevin D]

seized pivot arm

I checked the pivot arm yesterday and found the bolt siezed in the hinged arm, ok in the fixed arm. So there was about 20 degrees of rotation. Drove the pin out, cleaned and greased, reassembled, full rotation now. I should add, that wear was accumulated over 30000 miles.

[Jonesy]

I used Sirius hoses on my CB360T. They are only 3 years old and have cracked already. I bought an OEM hose/pipe kit for my CB750 from CMS and no problems.

[BobbyR]

BobbyR...
I wanted to keep certain aspects of my 350F cafe original and tie other aspects into Honda's factory "RC" efforts as well as the privateer "CR" efforts. My m/c was junk and I did not have the patience to obtain the appropriate snap ring pliers to rebuild it and allow me to brake my "looks fast as hell" cafe project with 1972 standards.  Besides, the period correct m/c's were more hateful ($) than later years on ebay.  I got a CBR F3 m/c and a limited # of connections (I had to shorten the banjo bolts..no big deal) the stainless line and new pads all acting on the stock disc for what I feel is a fair price.  I kept all specific part #'s and info if you want that.  I also have a stock 72 350F (with exhaust!!!) that I compare the brakes to, and I know the magazines of the era raved about the OEM binders...but damn!...they suck!  Let me know if you want more info as I am a cheap bastard and I feel I got my $'s worth!

So Ward, id I am reading you right, you fitted a modern master cylinder to the original caliper. Using a better brake pad and a better master cylinder you have much better braking.

[mlinder]

I wonder if using some modern stuff (mc, lines, pistons) with my existing single front disk would be a good alternative to going dual front disk with uh, shall we say, dated, materials.

What MC, calipers, etc, could I use to update and upgrade without changing the disk adn wheel assembly?

69 750, by the way.

Anyone know? I'd rather keep the single disk up front, rather like the look, and would like to keep weight down, too.

[Kevin D]

I opted for the HEL SS/teflon lines. Box arrived today, haven't opened it yet. I'm shooting for April 15th road

date/evaluation - tomorrow is supposed to be 65 and sunny, but I won't be ready.

[trinorman]

To mlinder,
I am very happy with my 11mm Brembo master cylinder on my CB750K2.  The smaller master cylinder really makes a big improvement in stopping power.  You should be able to use a stock brake hose too.  I use a stainless steel hose that I had made when I had the stock MC in place and I was able to use it with no modification when I installed the Brembo.

It comes with a 10mm mirror mount hole and a brake light switch.  You can get the same unit without mirror mount or switch for less from the same source.

Here is a diagram of the Brembo:
http://kvickmc.se/brembo-mckatalog/master_cylinder/front/10539310-PS11.pdf

I bought it here:
http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Brembo_-_m_cyl_11mm_integral.htm

One other thing, you will need a banjo bolt that is 10 X 1.0 which is a finer thread from stock.

Also, if you want the clutch lever to match you will need to find a dogleg lever.  I use one from Flanders.

[wesniles]

I dont have any experience with Speigler lines because I usually make up my own braided brake lines. I use Galfer parts as I am a dealer for them. Click on this link and it will show you how the Galfer lines are custom made.


http://www.geocities.com/fischervintagecycle/Galfer.html?1170944501831

I'm interested in knowing what fittings you used and how i would be able to get ahold of them to try this for myself.