Topic: Hard clutch pull (Fixed)

[JDrider]

Since I bought this bike last year (1975 cb550k1)
It has had a hard clutch pull. I assumed it was the cable.
I also assumed it was because the cable was run incorrectly and maybe squeezed.
So I was planning to replace the cable with a new one.
I unlatched the cable from the lower end and noticed the cable was gliding just fine. (I rerouted it correctly also)
So, what is my next move?
Thank you.

[smee]

Few things that come to mind:

1) Cable lubed and routed correctly? - Correct cable? 550 v. 500

2) Cable and clutch adjusted properly? - Make sure the dot on the lever aligns with the dot on the case when there is regular tension on the lever. Hook your cable back up or use your finger to simulate this and make sure the dots align. You adjust here first to align dots and then finish at the handle. The dots should align with no force being applied to the lever at the handle once everything is adjusted properly.

3) Somebody replace clutch springs with heavy duty ones?

4) Under clutch cover, is everything aligned correctly?

[JDrider]

I haven’t removed clutch cover.
Was avoiding that.
Everything is aligned like you said.
The pull is just harder than it needs to be.

[bryanj]

DO NOT  lube original Honda cables as you will wreck them, and a cable that slides with no load on it is not necessarily ok

[JDrider]

So replace the cable with the new one?
I was told when I bought it the cable was new.
Seems more like the clutch system is tight.
Should the pulley be able to be moved up by hand
While unlatched. It is impossible to move it up without
Attaching the cable and pulling at the clutch lever.

[JDrider]

I also wanted to add that I loosed the clutch adjuster nut and
Tried to adjust with the screwdriver. It moved all the way in and all the way out without moving the control arm at all. Unless I added some tension with my finger pushing the control arm up a bit.
So it was hard to figure out the place the adjustment screw needed to be.

[newday777]

So replace the cable with the new one?
I was told when I bought it the cable was new.
Seems more like the clutch system is tight.
Should the pulley be able to be moved up by hand
While unlatched. It is impossible to move it up without
Attaching the cable and pulling at the clutch lever.

1. Who did you get the cable from? Aftermarket cable or from Honda dealer?
2. Show a picture of your handlebars and clutch cable routing and bend. We don't know what you have nor if it is routed correctly other than you say it is. A miss routed cable will bind, too long or too short of cable for what handlebars you have will bind.
3. No you won't be able to move the actuator lever by hand.

If the cable is proper length and routed properly then you need to remove the clutch cover and inspect, clean and grease your actuator parts.

[JDrider]

I measured side by side with the cable I bought from Honda.
It is correct length, it was routed under the tank and bound to the frame tube.
So I routed correctly. Handlebars are original.
I didn’t want to drain my oil just to inspect the inside until I was ready with more oil and cover gasket.

[bryanj]

If you have screwed the adjuster all the way both ways you MAY have made the internal arm "jump" the operating cam inside the cover.
There is a dot or notch on the arm which should align with the dot or notch on the case when operating arm is lifted against light return spring.
If you have jumped the cam the only way to reset is to remove the clutch cover and yes you need a new gasket.
This is all in the Honda manual supplement for the 75 to 78 550

[JDrider]

Ugh.
Ok. But that wouldn’t cause the stiff pull, this is separate issue correct?
I don’t want to have to remove the cover, grease the mechanism and
Correct the adjustment only to button everything up and have the hard pull still.

[Scootch]

Ugh.
Ok. But that wouldn’t cause the stiff pull, this is separate issue correct?
I don’t want to have to remove the cover, grease the mechanism and
Correct the adjustment only to button everything up and have the hard pull still.

This made me LoL.

[JDrider]

Ugh.
Ok. But that wouldn’t cause the stiff pull, this is separate issue correct?
I don’t want to have to remove the cover, grease the mechanism and
Correct the adjustment only to button everything up and have the hard pull still.

This made me LoL.

I’m just trying to make these repairs in the smartest way possible without wasting money.
Also I’m doing this on the side of a road, I don’t have a garage or a shaded area to work in.
So I was trying to do what can before draining the oil again.

[seanbarney41]

In my experience, cb550 clutch pull is generally much harder than most modern bikes, harder even than a cb750.  Just something you have to live with.  Hey, at least it is better than cb500!

[JDrider]

That’s good to know.
I just wanted to make sure it didn’t need something done to it.
To make it better.

[PeWe]

The Barnett springs for a CB500/550, 350 etc are harder than their CB750 dito.
66 vs 56 lb which is part of the part numbers.

So the stock springs are harder than stock CB750 too?

[newday777]

I measured side by side with the cable I bought from Honda.
It is correct length, it was routed under the tank and bound to the frame tube.
So I routed correctly. Handlebars are original.
I didn’t want to drain my oil just to inspect the inside until I was ready with more oil and cover gasket.

The same cable length doesn't mean you have the correct cable length to begin with. And just because you put it back the way someone else before you routed it, doesn't mean it is routed correctly.
Your picture says it is too long a cable to me and there is binding in the 2 opposite curves with the cable strapped to the frame.
As a test, unhook the cable at the hand lever, pull it back out of the gauges and the speedo cable loop on the horn so you can temporarily run it up over the gauges and handlebars direct to the clutch lever and test the pull.

Notice the routing diagram shows the clutch cable running fairly straight from the back to the front up near the tank rubber cushion then up through the gauges to get to the lever.

You didn't answer where you got the cable from and did you take your old cable to a shop to have it matched in lrngth?

[JDrider]

I bought the correct Honda cable. I used that cable to measure the one that was in there.
I didn’t put it the way it was. I corrected it to the one in the manual.
It is not strapped to the frame.
It was.

[grcamna2]

subscribed

[seanbarney41]

The Barnett springs for a CB500/550, 350 etc are harder than their CB750 dito.
66 vs 56 lb which is part of the part numbers.

So the stock springs are harder than stock CB750 too?

that is interesting PeWe...also some bikes have more leverage built into the clutch actuation system.  I would guess the cb550 has particularly low leverage.  However, it is a much better system than the cb500, which are notoriously problematic.

[newday777]

I bought the correct Honda cable. I used that cable to measure the one that was in there.
I didn’t put it the way it was. I corrected it to the one in the manual.
It is not strapped to the frame.
It was.

So it sounds like you aren't going to try the test I suggested to loosen the cable free from where it is now? It will tell you if it is in the cable routing or it's in the actuator in the engine cover.... 

You still didn't answer where you got the cable from.

[JDrider]

The cable is a Honda cable. From Honda. I attached a photo of the label.

[newday777]

The cable is a Honda cable. From Honda. I attached a photo of the label.

Okay. Good.

This shows you how to do the test I mentioned.

[JDrider]

I have watched this video and others but don’t understand the test you are mentioning.

[JDrider]

The cable is a Honda cable. From Honda. I attached a photo of the label.

Okay. Good.

This shows you how to do the test I mentioned.

Nevermind. I see what you mean “As a test, unhook the cable at the hand lever, pull it back out of the gauges and the speedo cable loop on the horn so you can temporarily run it up over the gauges and handlebars direct to the clutch lever and test the pull.
”.
I’ll try this tomorrow.

[turboed13b]

I recently rebuilt my clutch and found the clutch plates wore notches into the clutch basket. I filed the notches smooth and it fixed both heavy clutch pull and shifting into neutral problems.

[JDrider]

So this morning I decided to remove the “new” cable the previous owner
Installed and replaced with a new Honda cable.
The clutch is now smooth and pulls perfect.
Thanks Stu and everyone for your help!

[stocky]

Had a very similar issue with a new aftermarket throttle cable that was very stiff even after lube. Ended up snapping after a year. Replaced with a new OEM cable and the difference it made was so much smoother and better, felt like a different bike. Keep those cables OEM.

[JDrider]

I took the bike for a ride today, and man does it feel like a whole new bike!
It’s shifts so smoothly, and I can find neutral immediately.
This is so great. I appreciate all the help on this forum from everybody.

[PeWe]

I fully understand your feelings!
That and smooth running engine from idle and up make it fun to ride.