Topic: Installed HD cylinder studs, one is quite a bit higher than the others. Problem?

[hevykevy420]

I installed the APE studs per the directions, dipping them in oil and torquing to 8ft pounds of torque with the torque wrench.  I now have the engine together, and one of the studs is a bit less then 1/2 an inch higher than the others.  (I didn't mix up the short/long studs, don't worry.)

I tried to torque it down a bit more, but i don't want to use more than 10ft. lbs. of torque and risk snapping the stud now that i have the engine together.  I don't understand why this one stud is so much higher than the others?

Should i just leave it???

[scondon]

 When I installed mine they were all seated evenly in the lower case and I still ended up with some slight variance up top. Maybe 1/8" at most between lowest and highest.  1/2" sounds pretty extreme.

  Is it possible that the stud is installed upside down in relation to the others? Don't know how this would make it stick up higher, just thinking out loud.

[hevykevy420]

When I installed mine they were all seated evenly in the lower case and I still ended up with some slight variance up top. Maybe 1/8" at most between lowest and highest.  1/2" sounds pretty extreme.

  Is it possible that the stud is installed upside down in relation to the others? Don't know how this would make it stick up higher, just thinking out loud.

I was pretty careful when i put them in, making sure the longer threaded portion went into the block.  I am relatively sure I did not install upside down.  Even If I did, it would not cause a stud to be this much higher than the rest I would think.  I know there can be slight variations in height, but this one is WAY off.   

[kghost]

Crap in the hole?

Stud bottoming in the hole?

Threads buggered up in the case?

[hevykevy420]

i can't imagine that there is crap in the threads, or messed up threads.  i blew out the holes with the air compressor, and used oil on the threads.  they all seemed to thread in quite nicely.

hmm...

[kghost]

Its not hard for stuff to get compacted in the hole....old sealant, grease and oil, dirt, etc.

Its certainly not difficult to mess up the threads in aluminium either.

I think I'd pull it and see what was going on.

[hevykevy420]

  maybe i'll try to take out the stud from the top leaving the engine together.  not that i'd be able to see what was going on in there     i've already gooped the gaskets and broke a ring the first time, i really don't want to dissassemble again!!!!!!!!!!  effing effy eff!!

[kghost]

If it were easy women and little children would do it 

[MRieck]

 If you put to much oil on the threads it pools in the bottom of the case hole and causes hydrolock. Pull the stud out; clear the hole and start again with very little oil. I use red Loctite, mock up the cylinders and head, than tighten lubed head bolts down a few lbs and let it setup over night. It makes for a rigid assembly.

[hevykevy420]

OK, well I removed the stud from the top and blew out the hole with air and there didn't seem to be too much oil in it so I added a little wd-40 lube to the threads, reinstalled, and it torqued a bit further into the block so I am going to call it good and move on!!

If anybody is doing the HD APE stud job, I would recommending some how making sure that the studs are all seated to the same relative degree, rather than just torquing to the 8 recommended lbs. so you'll discover a poorly seated stud before you have the cylinder and head on.  It can be hard to judge by eye.

I think someone mentioned mocking up the engine with the cylinder and the head after the studs are installed, this is a good idea to make sure the studs are all seated to the same degree, but I installed my pistons BEFORE the studs, just to have more access for inserting those itty bitty wrist pin circlips, so I was unable to do that!

[RRRToolSolutions]

Kevin, I also measured and recorded my stock ones before removal - the tall, rear ones = 170mm and the 4 front/shorter ones are 132mm from the bare engine case. This may help the next guy -

Regards,
Gordon

[kslrr]

When using the APE studs, does it require drilling and re-tapping of the engine case?

[RRRToolSolutions]

No drilling necessary. They thread down into the stock holes. They are just a better grade of steel and they have a larger shaft diameter.

The instructions call for cleaning the hole, threading the studs hand-tight, checking for height, and applying Loctite 242 or other non-harding sealant to the threads. The lower studs replace the bolts used to hold the crank in-place.

Regards,
Gordon

[Fasted]

I am a little confused.  I just got in the APE studs and they recommend using oil on the stud threads.  Should I use oil, Loctite, or antiseize -to aid in next teardown. 

ED

[hevykevy420]

I followed the APE instructions verbatim, and did not use any type of loctite.  I did use a little motor oil on the threads per the instructions to help seat the stud.  You'll find they're a tight fit.

I personally think loctite is not necessary, but its up to you.  I didn't see any type of residue indicating loctite was used on the stock studs from their removal.  If those buggers stayed tight for so long I don't see how these APE could loosen up, especially considering the additional torque from the head nuts with the APE studs.

Its really up to your preference!!  Gordon knows his stuff...