Author Topic: Starting a K8 project with almost no mechanical aptitude...what could go wrong? (Read 5474 times)

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #75 on:** July 23, 2023, 06:00:38 PM »

Quote from: newday777 on July 23, 2023, 02:28:44 PM

I had to go through my pictures to see if I had a shot of my K8 front sprocket.

Okay flat out it is. I reviewed my photos again to see if I could tell by just the photo but no dice. Glad to see a photographic example. I appreciate it.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #76 on:** July 24, 2023, 03:08:17 PM »

So bit of an odd question as I do not have one of these but what is this?? I can read from the description it is for emissions but I don't remember ever seeing one on the last K8 I owned and not on this one either. I can't find any reference to it in the CMSL breakdowns or even in my owners manual. Any of the experts here care to fill me in on this?

denward17 · « **Reply #77 on:** July 24, 2023, 03:26:39 PM »

EDITED:

When looking at CMSL, look at the air cleaner box, a small portion of the diagram has it shown on the right side of the diagram.
Several people have removed them and re-routed the hoses.

For lack of a better term, it is part of the emissions system, and connects just under the battery tray, above the swing arm. The breather from the cam cover goes here, and it vents out the bottom beside #3/4 exhaust pipes to the rear.

The other connection on the top of the emissions piece goes to the top of the air cleaner box, that biggest connector. The connector on the side goes to the cam cover. And of course the bottom is the drain tube routed beside #3-4 exhaust pipes to the rear.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #78 on:** July 24, 2023, 03:30:33 PM »

Quote from: denward17 on July 24, 2023, 03:26:39 PM

When looking at CMSL, look at the air cleaner box, a small portion of the diagram has it shown on the right side of the diagram.
Several people have removed them and re-routed the hoses.

For lack of a better term, it is part of the emissions system, and connects just under the battery tray, above the swing arm. The breather from the cam cover goes here, and it vents out the bottom beside #3/4 exhaust pipes to the rear. The other connection on top, I need to look to see where mine is connected to, I can't remember at the moment.

I had thought that was a depiction of something inside the airbox (even though I should have known better cause I've opened it up). I absolutely see it and appreciate the note on that. My bike has the breather hose running wild and free into nothing and just venting (I guess) out of the bike. I'll have to take a look at the bottom of my battery tray and see if I can visualize where that thing connected to.

Dennis - saw your new note and appreciate the feedback. I went out to take a look at my battery box and sure enough there is a spot and they even left the bolt for it. I picked it up and will add it to the bike. Your description makes way more sense and I really wondered what the connection on the top of the airbox was for, this answers that question. I do find it odd that on both this one, and the one I had before they were gone when I got them.

denward17 · « **Reply #79 on:** July 24, 2023, 03:38:56 PM »

I think it is a good idea to check the drain hose to make sure you have no oil leaking out. If you do, there could be a problem somewhere else with crankcase pressure.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #80 on:** July 24, 2023, 03:42:38 PM »

Quote from: scubanerdnick on July 24, 2023, 03:30:33 PM

Quote from: denward17 on July 24, 2023, 03:26:39 PM
When looking at CMSL, look at the air cleaner box, a small portion of the diagram has it shown on the right side of the diagram.
Several people have removed them and re-routed the hoses.

For lack of a better term, it is part of the emissions system, and connects just under the battery tray, above the swing arm. The breather from the cam cover goes here, and it vents out the bottom beside #3/4 exhaust pipes to the rear. The other connection on top, I need to look to see where mine is connected to, I can't remember at the moment.

I had thought that was a depiction of something inside the airbox (even though I should have known better cause I've opened it up). I absolutely see it and appreciate the note on that. My bike has the breather hose running wild and free into nothing and just venting (I guess) out of the bike. I'll have to take a look at the bottom of my battery tray and see if I can visualize where that thing connected to.

I connected my breather hose from the top of the valve cover and back a couple feet alongside the top frame rail near the sidecover and ending with a K&N breather filter;it keeps my air filter from getting PCV cr*p fluid into it.
That oil/PCV crankcase condensate mix

is the wrong stuff to be recycled back into the combustion chambers of our cylinders;the pistons/rings can get carbon build-up from it which is why I vent it back out into the atmosphere through the K&N PVC filter.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #81 on:** July 24, 2023, 08:05:27 PM »

Quote from: denward17 on July 24, 2023, 03:26:39 PM

EDITED:

When looking at CMSL, look at the air cleaner box, a small portion of the diagram has it shown on the right side of the diagram.
Several people have removed them and re-routed the hoses.

For lack of a better term, it is part of the emissions system, and connects just under the battery tray, above the swing arm. The breather from the cam cover goes here, and it vents out the bottom beside #3/4 exhaust pipes to the rear.

The other connection on the top of the emissions piece goes to the top of the air cleaner box, that biggest connector. The connector on the side goes to the cam cover. And of course the bottom is the drain tube routed beside #3-4 exhaust pipes to the rear.

Small add to a great description. Originally the drain hose had a small plastic plug in it! The owner’s manual suggested occasionally removing it to let condensate out. Remove it and toss it is even better.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #82 on:** July 25, 2023, 04:45:59 PM »

Took a look in my owners manual and there it is. Amazing how you just read over things sometimes. I could've sworn it wasn't in there because of my own memories not including it but sure enough there it is. Glad I picked it up and will look forward to getting it on the bike.

denward17 · « **Reply #83 on:** July 25, 2023, 05:17:21 PM »

Mine doesn't have the inner retaining plate, nor the foam.

But I cut a piece of a scrub pad (has foam on one side) and fitted it inside.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #84 on:** August 01, 2023, 03:06:01 PM »

Den - took some time and disassembled the one I got today and I'm gonna steal your idea with the scrub pad/foam. Looks like I have something new in the house that will work.

So I'm trying to get the rear sprocket bolts loose and having NO luck. I gave them a shot of WD40 and am going to let that sit overnight but does anyone else have any suggestions? I do not have air impact tools but I do have an electric impact driver which wasn't able to get the job done.

If all goes well and I can get a few things done this week, I should be able to put things back together this weekend and get it fired up again.

denward17 · « **Reply #85 on:** August 01, 2023, 03:30:21 PM »

Did you leave the sprocket ad holder attached to the hub? That could help.

I remember them being on quite tight, if I recall, my electric drill driver broke them loose on mine.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #86 on:** August 01, 2023, 03:43:49 PM »

Quote from: denward17 on August 01, 2023, 03:30:21 PM

Did you leave the sprocket ad holder attached to the hub? That could help.

I remember them being on quite tight, if I recall, my electric drill driver broke them loose on mine.

Okay so I think what I failed to do was according to the manual "unlock the tongued washer". I'll take a look tomorrow and get those guys off there. Can't tell if they're reusable or not but I'll see what I have after I get it off there.

denward17 · « **Reply #87 on:** August 01, 2023, 04:47:35 PM »

^Indeed, that tongue washer has to be bent down so the nut can turn off.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #88 on:** August 02, 2023, 05:11:11 AM »

Yep that's what happened. I should have been able to tell that by looking the first time but didn't pay close enough attention.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #89 on:** August 02, 2023, 05:57:44 PM »

Took some time tonight and separated the breather element I picked up from Ebay a bit ago. Was surprised to see the remnants of the 1978 filter inside there. Making my own out of a scotch brite pad after Dennis mentioned that was what he did. Seems like it should work just fine. Should be putting things back together this weekend.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #90 on:** August 02, 2023, 06:14:08 PM »

I was considering using a very fine SS screen in my breather(just like yours)but rather removed the unit and installed a K&N PVC filter w/ a long hose upward.
I can see how a piece of fine(grey?)Scotch Brite would work;the grey stuff is fine/soft and compresses tighter under that tapered plastic disc/vent.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #91 on:** August 04, 2023, 08:04:17 AM »

I'm gonna roll with just a regular scotch brite pad as long as it looks like it will work.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #92 on:** August 04, 2023, 10:29:40 AM »

Quote from: scubanerdnick on August 04, 2023, 08:04:17 AM

I'm gonna roll with just a regular scotch brite pad as long as it looks like it will work.

I'm hoping your OEM Honda PCV separator/filter assembly's cap will press-down and seal with a thick piece of red Scotch Brite underneath the small plastic tapered 'funnel looking' part,where it needs to be;that red stuff won't compress much compared to the grey.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #93 on:** August 04, 2023, 11:00:13 AM »

yeah me too. I don't have a red pad but a green one which I think is a bit thiner. I figure if it doesn't work Im not out much and will at least know at that point to get a different color one.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #94 on:** August 04, 2023, 11:34:13 AM »

Quote from: scubanerdnick on August 04, 2023, 11:00:13 AM

yeah me too. I don't have a red pad but a green one which I think is a bit thiner. I figure if it doesn't work Im not out much and will at least know at that point to get a different color one.

The grey/extra fine Scotch Brite compresses the most;it won't disintegrate like the thin OEM Honda foam.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #95 on:** August 04, 2023, 02:40:59 PM »

Okay I'm convinced I must be doing something wrong trying to get the lugs off the rear sprocket. I have flattened out the tongue washers so they are not impeding the rotation of the lug nuts but I cannot, even with an electric impact wrench, get these things to so much as budge. I'm thinking I may be missing a vital step at this point but if I'm not whats a good way to try and get these guys off here?

Picture is of how my tongue washers look after I have flattened them. Really hoping I'm just missing a basic step here/being a dummy.

#EDIT# - So the reason I love YouTube is all the little tricks you learn there. Saw a video of a guy bashing the socket on the lugnut in order to get it to free up and thought at the very least I'd feel better about this if I could hit it with a hammer. Lo and Behold the trick worked and I'm back in business. Thanks YouTube for the assist on this. Learn something new everyday.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #96 on:** August 04, 2023, 03:29:41 PM »

Nick,I imagine a PO used an air impact wrench to tighten those sprocket hold-down nuts on there last time..

denward17 · « **Reply #97 on:** August 04, 2023, 03:30:20 PM »

^Glad you got them off, I was going to suggest some penetrate and heat.

scubanerdnick · « **Reply #98 on:** August 04, 2023, 03:46:01 PM »

I think they were definitely on there from an air impact wrench. Dennis - I did end up using some penetrating WD40 to spray those guys down also. Great minds think alike.

I have a sprocket side plate on there and did some forum research to determine if it is still necessary or even recommended with new non-OEM sprockets and couldn't quite figure out the consensus on that. Its not damaged so I can just put it right back on there but wanted to at least determine if it had a function. I read something about stock 4 into 4 pipes an it being maybe useful in that case but for right now I have a 4 into 1 exhaust.

Without opening a can of worms is there a consensus on leaving it vs. removing it?

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #99 on:** August 04, 2023, 03:57:29 PM »

Those are not the oem nuts. Can't quite tell from the pic, but those are either nylocks, or the locknut type that gouges into the stud threads. Could be why you are having too much trouble. Inspect those studs carefully for damage and/or consider replacing them just cause. OEM uses only the tongued washer to lock those nuts.

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Author Topic: Starting a K8 project with almost no mechanical aptitude...what could go wrong? (Read 5474 times)