Author Topic: What ne to be removed from cb400f motor to lay it on its right side and drop out  (Read 452 times)

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Offline Redline it

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I've done it before, only I can't remember if the valve cover vent cap, and oil pan can and oil filter cover can stay on. Carbs, exhaust, battery box, left starter side cover all off, about 6 or 7 bolts to go. Since I'm this close I might as well take the motor out and paint the frame, I remember there's something about removing the left or right lower front motor mount that can damage something if it's done in the wrong order or something.

I ran into some awesome ways to remove the rusted stuck timing chain adjuster bolt and a rusted stuck speed o cable set screw without damage nor lost minds, normally I damage them. Nobody told me any tips. On the adjuster bolt and nut spray some penetrant on it, get a short thin light weight 12mm box end wrench or half of a wrench 12 point even, position the wrench to protrude just out side of the front motor mounts and with no play, get a light weight hammer nothing big. And tap on it loosening direction for 3 or 5 taps then tap the other direction if it didn't already move, do the same with the 6mm bolt with a tight box end. If it's not moving don't trap harder, just tap more. The speedo cable lock screw, no impact driver, if you got jis screw driver use it if it fits tight no play, I use a short Phillips square wood handle. Here's the trick, brace your leg above your knee on the back of the screw driver, you gotta lay on it, so it won't come out and then double wrap both hands around the handle, over lapping the smart hand. And give it all you got, don't let up, and it'll snap out. Impact drivers can do some damage. Next is the rubber intake to head screws.

Offline Kelly E

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We make a plate for the motor out of a piece of 3/4" plywood and various scraps of wood screwed on to support the motor stable on the right side. We put the stand on a heavy duty foot tall wooden box to make it easier to get the long motor mount bolts out. Pull most of the small motor mount bolts and lay the bike over on the stand. Have a buddy hold the frame while you take out the last couple of long motor mount bolts. Then carefully wiggle the frame off. Pull off the oil filter, oil pan and the valve cover vent cap.
When you put the motor back in install the centerstand on the frame first. Once the motor is in flip it upright and set it on the stand and use a padded jackstand for the front.
« Last Edit: July 05, 2023, 06:52:52 PM by Kelly E »
Never Give Up - Never Surrender

The Rust Bros. Garage Collection
1974 Honda CB 550 K0                                            1971 MGB/GT
1975 Honda CB 400F Super Sport                          1972 MGB/GT
1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD                                   1985 GMC S15
1978 Kawasaki KL 250
1980 Suzuki GS 1100E
1983 Honda CB 1100F
1984 Honda VF 700S Sabre
1984 Honda VF 1000F Interceptor
1990 Moto Guzzi 1000 Le Mans
1994 Kawasaki Concours ZG 1000A9
2005 Harley Davidson Fat Boy

Offline Mark1976

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   If your laying the bike on its right side, then your pulling the frame off of the engine, and the engine will remain on the floor. If that's the case it'll be easiest to do if you remove the cam cover vent and then the oil pan (with the oil pump p/up as well), then you should be able to lift the frame off without any issues. It's a little tight but not that bad. Also as Kelly E mentions,  find a way to stabilize the engine so it doesn't flop over once its removed, the centerstand is another really great point as well, it'll just be easier to get the bike upright and wheels back on with it already in place.
Start with the end in mind...

Offline Redline it

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Thanks, I'll give it a shot. It's being done in a carpeted living room so motor should be ok,I might even lay it down and stuff a few sleeping under it in place of the the box clean the frame put 2 coats of rustolem gloss black  then a coat of clear satin.his is gottabe the best online forum. Web site is like a Honda medical center, I'll send some support soon thanks again