Topic: Which Carb Sync Tool for 76 CB750 carbs

[tofan]

Which carb sync kit do you use for 064A carbs on a 76 CB750F?

I've tried this one, but the adapter for port #3 is too long and the carb itself is in the way, not allowing me to screw the adapter in (I didn't have this problem in my 550K):
https://www.amazon.com/ALPHA-MOTO-Motorcycle-Synchronizer-Synchronization/dp/B004MSJ7E6/ref=asc_df_B004MSJ7E6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=318785865244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8398458083252156122&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030244&hvtargid=pla-648779348381&psc=1

And I just tried this one. None of the adapter threads are compatible, but the length of the adapters are good:
https://thedigisync.com/

[bryanj]

First the gauges are junk, had a set threw them away, in uk i have a Sealey set, nearest to genuine honda i have ever seen but not cheap. If you want i will find an ebay link and post on to you if they wont ship

[MisterKnife]

I'm using https://thedigisync.com/ and will never go to analog again.

[newday777]

Morgan Carb Tune 4 is what I have now. They have short adapters in both 5mm(Honda) and 6mm.

[Johnie]

I second the Morgan. Very accurate. Had mine 20 years and they've never let me down. I did buy the brass adapters.

[rotortiller]

Those gauges will be fine. I have a 10 year old set that have served me well. If you look closely you will see a slotted screw under the sight glass which screws off. If you desire very critical indicator matching those screws do the trick. Ideally matching all the gauges at operating suction will be the most accurate. Do this with three "T"s  hooked to a single carb port or use a syringe to suck them down to that value. The best thing is they have no liquid and can sit in any orientation while tuning. It's not so much the tool, it really boils down to skill in use and how it's employed. I also have access to expensive digital manometers and prefer the old school type.

[willbird]

Those gauges will be fine. I have a 10 year old set that have served me well. If you look closely you will see a slotted screw under the sight glass which screws off. If you desire very critical indicator matching those screws do the trick. Ideally matching all the gauges at operating suction will be the most accurate. Do this with three "T"s  hooked to a single carb port or use a syringe to suck them down to that value. The best thing is they have no liquid and can sit in any orientation while tuning. It's not so much the tool, it really boils down to skill in use and how it's employed. I also have access to expensive digital manometers and prefer the old school type.

I recently bought a set just like this. They seem fine to me. I kinda want to get around to making a setup that uses four MAP sensors to play with.

Bill

[tofan]

Those gauges will be fine. I have a 10 year old set that have served me well. If you look closely you will see a slotted screw under the sight glass which screws off. If you desire very critical indicator matching those screws do the trick. Ideally matching all the gauges at operating suction will be the most accurate. Do this with three "T"s  hooked to a single carb port or use a syringe to suck them down to that value. The best thing is they have no liquid and can sit in any orientation while tuning. It's not so much the tool, it really boils down to skill in use and how it's employed. I also have access to expensive digital manometers and prefer the old school type.

Yeah those worked fine for my 550K, but I can't screw in the stick adapter into port #3 because the choke linkage is in the way.

[tofan]

I'm using https://thedigisync.com/ and will never go to analog again.

For 064A carbs? I tried the digisync and the threads aren't compatible.

[robvangulik]

Those gauges will be fine. I have a 10 year old set that have served me well. If you look closely you will see a slotted screw under the sight glass which screws off. If you desire very critical indicator matching those screws do the trick. Ideally matching all the gauges at operating suction will be the most accurate. Do this with three "T"s  hooked to a single carb port or use a syringe to suck them down to that value. The best thing is they have no liquid and can sit in any orientation while tuning. It's not so much the tool, it really boils down to skill in use and how it's employed. I also have access to expensive digital manometers and prefer the old school type.

Yeah those worked fine for my 550K, but I can't screw in the stick adapter into port #3 because the choke linkage is in the way.

Then make your own short adapter, it is really just a hollow M5 screw, I've got a set permanently on my 400, just for ease of syncing.

[Floshenbarnical]

Those gauges will be fine. I have a 10 year old set that have served me well. If you look closely you will see a slotted screw under the sight glass which screws off. If you desire very critical indicator matching those screws do the trick. Ideally matching all the gauges at operating suction will be the most accurate. Do this with three "T"s  hooked to a single carb port or use a syringe to suck them down to that value. The best thing is they have no liquid and can sit in any orientation while tuning. It's not so much the tool, it really boils down to skill in use and how it's employed. I also have access to expensive digital manometers and prefer the old school type.

Yeah those worked fine for my 550K, but I can't screw in the stick adapter into port #3 because the choke linkage is in the way.

Then make your own short adapter, it is really just a hollow M5 screw, I've got a set permanently on my 400, just for ease of syncing.

This, the first time I synced I was using my friend’s gauges, I drilled out the center of a 5mm bolt and cut the head off, used a my lock nut and a thin cross section of vent tube as an o-ring

Now I have a set of gauges with the right adapters but it worked

[tofan]

You're right. I can trim the stem.