Add a little bit of oil to the gas (one or two ounces is enough) to help this process along. I also recommend putting about an ounce of oil into the gas anyway, because modern gas doesn't have lead, so these top ends don't get any lubrication from the gas anymore.
... so just take it easy for a while, then recheck everything.
Would any oil do, or something specific? And define "take it easy"... 
I use oil that I took out of the bike, sort of 'recycling' it. If I don't have that, I use 2-stroke synthetic oil (it won't smoke). Anything that will lube the valves and valve seat faces while it re-breaks in works fine.
'Take it easy' is: don't be running to redline, stay in the sub-7000 RPM range until the engine wakes up and smoothes out.
The carb balance will likely be 'off' while this is going on, so unless you just want to learn how to do it (over and over for a while), wait until it idles better and the carbs have cleared their throats from some use.
I wouldn't be concerned with the points, condensors or coils: the plugs might need to be replaced as they may have rusted during the long sojourn. The sparkplug caps can be checked for moisture damage, which would show up as high resistance: they should be in the 7500 ohm range if they are the OEM caps - this was K3 standard resistance caps.
I offer a Transistor Ignition that is a drop-in unit made expressly for this bike: it will stop the points from wearing for a LONG time (like, decades) and won't require changing anything else on the bike. It also offers 100% 'backup' in that if it should die on the road (like maybe lightning hit you?) you can just unplug it and plug in the points directly, and ride on again.
