Topic: Good time to run seafoam?

[csmadore]

Hello all,
This is my first post here on the forum. I'll try to keep it brief.

My 74 CB550 has a worn clutch that I will be repairing/replacing this weekend. It also (as evidenced by slow oil loss and the testimony of fellow riders down wind) is burning some oil. Not a ton but not a little - maybe a quart over 400 miles.

My question is this: since I'm getting into the clutch anyway and so am not concerned about causing it to slip by adding the seafoam, would this be a good time to give it a good try to clean up any valve seal issues that might be contributing to my oil loss? I'm planning on taking the top end apart this winter regardless, but I figured I'd try and do what I can to motivate the problem for the balance of the riding season. I'm planning several long rides with other riders and I'd love for them to be able to smell the sweet Maine air and not just my oily exhaust, if possible.

Many thanks, in advance, for all your input.

[bryanj]

A quart in 400 miles is a massive amount for a honda maximum use for me would be a pint every 6000.
It could be bad stem seals and/or bad rings/bore asuming there is no puddle when parked

[csmadore]

There are no leaks. And compression is ok but not great - 125 psi, give or take.

[Don R]

 It will probably do no harm. Be sure to follow the directions, a mechanic friend told a guy to add 4 cap fulls and he used 4 can fulls. Yup, it killed the motor.

[bryanj]

In that case you need to take it apart to find out why

[csmadore]

Yes that is my plan for the winter. Just trying to improve the situation for summer riding. Motor sounds good and has good oil pressure, so I'm predicting that it will be valve seals.

[calj737]

Seafoam is a fuel additive, not an oil additive. So introducing it to your gas won't affect the clutch, nor will it likely address an oil burning. It is possible that some of you oil burning is related the piston rings, and if they are indeed crudded up, then Seafoam won't hurt a bit.

Oil additives should be avoided (unless it's a zinc-based product) unless they are specifically designed for wet clutch bikes. Before you tear into the clutch, you should do a thorough 3,000 Maintenance regimen on the bike, including lubricating the clutch cable (or replacing it) and adjusting the lifter nut. You'd be surprised how well a 50 year old motorcycle responds to some competent TLC.

[Stev-o]

It will probably do no harm...

...or any good! 

Personally, I dont believe in "miracle cures" especially if you have a mechanical issue.  How many miles on the bike and what type of oil are you using?  If you are burning that much oil, may be time for a re-ring, not just a valve job.

[csmadore]

It will probably do no harm...

...or any good! 

Personally, I dont believe in "miracle cures" especially if you have a mechanical issue.  How many miles on the bike and what type of oil are you using?  If you are burning that much oil, may be time for a re-ring, not just a valve job.

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

[calj737]

To yourr oil burning issue, valve seal leaks present mostly at start-up or at "take-off". If you are riding and the companions downwind are noticing oil burning, I'd look at the rings. Now would also be a good time to look at your plugs to see if they are oil-soaked.

[csmadore]

Seafoam is a fuel additive, not an oil additive. So introducing it to your gas won't affect the clutch, nor will it likely address an oil burning. It is possible that some of you oil burning is related the piston rings, and if they are indeed crudded up, then Seafoam won't hurt a bit.

Oil additives should be avoided (unless it's a zinc-based product) unless they are specifically designed for wet clutch bikes. Before you tear into the clutch, you should do a thorough 3,000 Maintenance regimen on the bike, including lubricating the clutch cable (or replacing it) and adjusting the lifter nut. You'd be surprised how well a 50 year old motorcycle responds to some competent TLC.

Yes I'm asking for feedback about adding seafoam to the crankcase shortly before changing the oil, same as you could on a car or truck. The idea being that the seafoam would loosen up any deposits around lifters/valve seals that might be causal or contributing factors to the oil burning situation. And yes, I've checked and adjusted the clutch adjuster nut as well as the cable. It shifts fine. It just slips in third and fourth mostly, and only when I really lay into the throttle.

[csmadore]

To yourr oil burning issue, valve seal leaks present mostly at start-up or at "take-off". If you are riding and the companions downwind are noticing oil burning, I'd look at the rings. Now would also be a good time to look at your plugs to see if they are oil-soaked.

Thank you, that makes sense. The plugs aren't horrible, to be honest. Black but not crudded up.

I just bought this bike a couple months ago, so this is my first time through it. Previous owner had it serviced at Madhouse Motors in Boston, and paid a pretty penny for that work too. Nowhere in the service records is there any mention of oil consumption. I'm not bummed about it though- half my reason for buying this bike in the first place was to get skilled at motorcycle repair. I'm looking forward to it.

[bryanj]

Seafoam works better in car engines, the valve opperation in the Honda sohc is very different and seafoam wont help

[calj737]

Seafoam works better in car engines, the valve opperation in the Honda sohc is very different and seafoam wont help

Please do explain this...?

[csmadore]

Seafoam works better in car engines, the valve opperation in the Honda sohc is very different and seafoam wont help

This was the heart of my question. Because I have no real experience with Honda motorcycle engines at this point - just Chevy small blocks.

Can you shed some light on why sea foam won't clean the top end on my sohc like it would on a typical truck motor?

[scottly]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

Is that just regular auto oil, or a motorcycle specific version? You really should be using motorcycle oil suitable for use with a wet clutch.
Regarding adding Seafoam to the crankcase oil, doesn't it say it's ok to do so on the label? In the past I have used a similar product to flush out gummed-up piston rings on car engines with some success..

[csmadore]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

Is that just regular auto oil, or a motorcycle specific version? You really should be using motorcycle oil suitable for use with a wet clutch.
Regarding adding Seafoam to the crankcase oil, doesn't it say it's ok to do so on the label? In the past I have used a similar product to flush out gummed-up piston rings on car engines with some success..

Yes I'm just using plain old motor oil. Because that's what the previous owner had in there. But I'm going to call our Honda distributor here and see what they say. Doubt it will make the difference, but it couldn't hurt.

[Mark1976]

It will probably do no harm. Be sure to follow the directions, a mechanic friend told a guy to add 4 cap fulls and he used 4 can fulls. Yup, it killed the motor.

   A good ol' fashion I-talian tune up....

[grcamna2]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

Is that just regular auto oil, or a motorcycle specific version? You really should be using motorcycle oil suitable for use with a wet clutch.
Regarding adding Seafoam to the crankcase oil, doesn't it say it's ok to do so on the label? In the past I have used a similar product to flush out gummed-up piston rings on car engines with some success..

Yes I'm just using plain old motor oil. Because that's what the previous owner had in there. But I'm going to call our Honda distributor here and see what they say. Doubt it will make the difference, but it couldn't hurt.

I make sure to get engine/trans oil in my Honda motorcycle that has the correct additives for wet clutch and transmission.
I use Shell Rotella T4 15/40 truck oil because it has the 'Jaso MA/MA-2' which are the additives it needs.
I also use Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil in the Winter and it has these same additives.
The automobile specific oils have 'friction modifiers' and they will certainly soak into your new clutch plates and cause more slippage.

[Tracksnblades1]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

Is that just regular auto oil, or a motorcycle specific version? You really should be using motorcycle oil suitable for use with a wet clutch.
Regarding adding Seafoam to the crankcase oil, doesn't it say it's ok to do so on the label? In the past I have used a similar product to flush out gummed-up piston rings on car engines with some success..

Yes I'm just using plain old motor oil. Because that's what the previous owner had in there. But I'm going to call our Honda distributor here and see what they say. Doubt it will make the difference, but it couldn't hurt.

I make sure to get engine/trans oil in my Honda motorcycle that has the correct additives for wet clutch and transmission.
I use Shell Rotella T4 15/40 truck oil because it has the 'Jaso MA/MA-2' which are the additives it needs.
I also use Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil in the Winter and it has these same additives.
The automobile specific oils have 'friction modifiers' and they will certainly soak into your new clutch plates and cause more slippage.

+1 on the Rotella T. It’ll scrub the oil ring lands up to if it’s been sitting long..

A lot of 750’s still run 20w-50 oils in the summer. Vavoline and Castrol both have an offering that have very high load bearing capabilities, as compared to othe 20w-50s..

Not sure what weight the 550 owners run in the summertime…😇

[Stev-o]

I'm using Pennzoil 10w-40.

Is that just regular auto oil, or a motorcycle specific version? You really should be using motorcycle oil suitable for use with a wet clutch.
Regarding adding Seafoam to the crankcase oil, doesn't it say it's ok to do so on the label? In the past I have used a similar product to flush out gummed-up piston rings on car engines with some success..

Yes I'm just using plain old motor oil. Because that's what the previous owner had in there. But I'm going to call our Honda distributor here and see what they say. Doubt it will make the difference, but it couldn't hurt.

I make sure to get engine/trans oil in my Honda motorcycle that has the correct additives for wet clutch and transmission.
I use Shell Rotella T4 15/40 truck oil because it has the 'Jaso MA/MA-2' which are the additives it needs.
I also use Valvoline 10/40 motorcycle oil in the Winter and it has these same additives.
The automobile specific oils have 'friction modifiers' and they will certainly soak into your new clutch plates and cause more slippage.

+1 on the Rotella T.

+1 on the Rotella T diesel oil.     

I have an old SBC [1970] and these motors need oil w/zinc so the cams dont wear out prematurely.

[bryanj]

Seafoam does well on cleaning out hydraulic lifters and such but honda sohc have a rocker arm running direct on cam and opening valve by pivot, no pushrods, no followers, no cam buckets etc

[csmadore]

Hello all,
This is my first post here on the forum. I'll try to keep it brief.

My 74 CB550 has a worn clutch that I will be repairing/replacing this weekend. It also (as evidenced by slow oil loss and the testimony of fellow riders down wind) is burning some oil. Not a ton but not a little - maybe a quart over 400 miles.

My question is this: since I'm getting into the clutch anyway and so am not concerned about causing it to slip by adding the seafoam, would this be a good time to give it a good try to clean up any valve seal issues that might be contributing to my oil loss? I'm planning on taking the top end apart this winter regardless, but I figured I'd try and do what I can to motivate the problem for the balance of the riding season. I'm planning several long rides with other riders and I'd love for them to be able to smell the sweet Maine air and not just my oily exhaust, if possible.

Many thanks, in advance, for all your input.

I just wanted to correct something I said in my original post: I went back and measured the oil I drained from my crankcase, and realized i had forgotten to include the oil I lost when my son had dropped the bike and ruptured the oil pressure gauge line the night before. This was the original reason for my changing the oil. So I'd say I had only burned about a half a quart over the 4-500 miles. Still not good obviously, but about half as much as a said earlier.

I'm going to put a motorcycle-specific oil in and see what that improves. I think I'm going to try the Castrol 20w-50. 

[grcamna2]

Hello all,
This is my first post here on the forum. I'll try to keep it brief.

My 74 CB550 has a worn clutch that I will be repairing/replacing this weekend. It also (as evidenced by slow oil loss and the testimony of fellow riders down wind) is burning some oil. Not a ton but not a little - maybe a quart over 400 miles.

My question is this: since I'm getting into the clutch anyway and so am not concerned about causing it to slip by adding the seafoam, would this be a good time to give it a good try to clean up any valve seal issues that might be contributing to my oil loss? I'm planning on taking the top end apart this winter regardless, but I figured I'd try and do what I can to motivate the problem for the balance of the riding season. I'm planning several long rides with other riders and I'd love for them to be able to smell the sweet Maine air and not just my oily exhaust, if possible.

Many thanks, in advance, for all your input.

I just wanted to correct something I said in my original post: I went back and measured the oil I drained from my crankcase, and realized i had forgotten to include the oil I lost when my son had dropped the bike and ruptured the oil pressure gauge line the night before. This was the original reason for my changing the oil. So I'd say I had only burned about a half a quart over the 4-500 miles. Still not good obviously, but about half as much as a said earlier.

I'm going to put a motorcycle-specific oil in and see what that improves. I think I'm going to try the Castrol 20w-50.

When you shop for the oil,look for the JASO MA/MA-2 in the additive section on back.

[BenelliSEI]

Good plan to try Castrol motorcycle oil, 20-50W. You might be surprised how you consumption improves. Also, checking compression with an automotive compression tester will give low results. Try one designed for small pistons/ bores. Afterwards, shoot a little oil in the cylinder ( teaspoon). If the result improves dramatically, plan the top end rebuild.