Author Topic: Dammit  (Read 592 times)

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Offline gunr

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Dammit
« on: August 23, 2023, 05:29:30 PM »
I put a new set of clutch discs in my 77K yesterday but had to jump to a friends project right after.
After we finished his job I came back home.
As I'm thinking about adjusting the clutch I realize I put the discs in backwards!
The discs have a radial groove in them to allow the oil to sling out of them.  I placed them with the groove facing this way \\\ but when you place the drum in the basket it's reversed.
Unfortunately this didn't occur to me until everything was back together. Luckily I have another cover gasket so tomorrow I'll fix my mistake.
Any job worth doing is worth doing twice.
I did successfully grind a 7/8 socket into the tool needed to remove the nut that holds thing together.

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2023, 08:34:40 PM »
I wish I could say that I've never done that, either.
But I can't...
When run that way the clutch soon starts slipping for a while when the lever is released because the oil has a longer dwell time in the grooves as it tries to squish its way out. The brand-new clutch then slips!
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

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Offline gunr

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2023, 07:35:10 AM »
Hondaman,
do the steel plates sharp edge go towards the engine or the rounded edges?

Offline PeWe

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2023, 08:31:29 AM »
You do not need to change gasket under clutch cover as long as it is not broken or very old and hard.

I prefer lightgreen Honda gaskets. No  problem to open clutch cover several times.
Same with all other cover gaskets.

Clutch cover gasket can be damaged when trying to remove it when sticked to cases.
Needed when removing the outer steel basket. Not for taking out the discs package.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline gunr

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2023, 08:51:13 AM »
PeWe,
Do you know how the steel plates should be facing in the pack?  There's a sharp squared edge and a rounded chamfered edge on the plates.
Which way should face the bike?

Offline PeWe

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2023, 08:54:28 AM »
I usually face sharp edge inwards.
I think most people do that.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Kelly E

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2023, 08:54:48 AM »
Hondaman,
do the steel plates sharp edge go towards the engine or the rounded edges?

If you look closely at the edges of the steels and the frictions. You can see the parting lines from being stamped out creating the sharp and rounded edges. Stack all of the parts the same way, it doesn't matter which edge is out as long as the parts are all stacked the same.
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The Rust Bros. Garage Collection
1974 Honda CB 550 K0                                            1971 MGB/GT
1975 Honda CB 400F Super Sport                          1972 MGB/GT
1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD                                   1985 GMC S15
1978 Kawasaki KL 250
1980 Suzuki GS 1100E
1982 Honda CB 900F Super Sport
1983 Honda CB 1100F
1984 Honda VF 700S Sabre
1984 Honda VF 1000F Interceptor
1990 Moto Guzzi 1000 Le Mans
1994 Kawasaki Concours ZG 1000A9
2005 Harley Davidson Fat Boy

Offline gunr

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2023, 08:58:23 AM »
Thanks so much guys! It's probably been 40 years since I've had one of these apart!

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Dammit
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2023, 06:20:53 PM »
Hondaman,
do the steel plates sharp edge go towards the engine or the rounded edges?
Like PeWe said: most of them I have replaced in virgin engines were with the sharp side in toward the engine.
As long as they are all stacked the same way, though, it usually works out fine: just don't alternate them.
This orientation ensures they all flex in the same direction when the clutch is loaded. This helps the oil enter-exit uniformly between the plates when operating it.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com