Topic: Attempting to remove spark plugs

[JDrider]

1975 cb550k1

I have new plugs, gapped correctly to install.
I got this bike last year and recently rebuilt the carbs.
Using the spark plug tool for the bike, I had trouble
Getting any leverage. I was pushing pretty hard on 1 and 4
But it wasn’t budging. I was afraid to do anything harder.
I’m not experienced with spark plugs.
So I thought I’d ask before damaging anything.

[Deltarider]

I suppose any creeping oil will do or make a 50/50% mix of acetone and ATF.
In general. Sparkplugs are to be removed with the engine cold or hot. Intermediate temperature will be much more difficult. To avoid seizure, use a tiny bit of copaslip or similar product on the threads.
Best tool for the sparkplugs is the Honda one. If not in the toolbag under the seat, it is still available for a reasonable price at https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k3-four-germany_model14674/wrench-plug_89216323000/
This is what has always worked best for me. Before I mount a sparkplug, I screw the little ferrule on top, some non OEM plugcaps require, but... just a few turns. Now press the plug in the Honda tool, so the rubber, high inside that tool, will have a firm grip. The sparkplugs hexagon is now exactly where it should be and the whole combination is stiff and easy to work with, meaning the plug will not fall out. Screw the sparkplug down and tighten. Withdraw the plugtool and then simply remove that ferrule again. On removing the sparkplugs, do the opposite: withdraw the plugcap, carefully avoiding a too wild movement of your hand that may result in a compromised connection cap - wire or even wire - coil. Then screw the little ferrule on top of the plug - a few turns is enough - and firmly press the Honda tool on it. No risk of damaging the porcelain and guaranteed no more prematurely falling sideways of the #2 and #3 plug, which would result in a hassle to get them out.

[calj737]

If they are that tight, some PB Blaster or similar can help. But switch to tightening just a smidge, then swap to loosen. Back and forth until it unscrews easily.

[JDrider]

Having just the small screw driver to turn it seems
Harder than it needs to be. Maybe I’ll find something longer to stick in the end. 

[Don R]

 Proceed with extreme patience.

[Deltarider]

Don is right. First apply creeping oil and let it rest for a night. You don't want to ruin the hole. Honda's plug wrench with the small screw driver has always done it for me. More leverage is risky. PO must have torqued the plugs with way more than the prescribed 1,4 kg/m. Or just run the engine. With the head hot (normal operating temperature), it's usually very easy.

[Tracksnblades1]

Proceed with extreme patience.

^^^^^^^^^^^

Greatest post so far…

Penetrating oil first…..

Like 737 posted, I like to try tightening first by hand. If I feel it move, then I follow the rest of 737’s post.

I like using heat first on the spark plug when the cylinder head is cold to expand the plugs thread into the aluminum threads..there is only moderate success with long reach plugs..if you don’t have an oxy/acetylene torch you probably won’t have any success with the long reach ones…

If it won’t tighten or loosen by hand, I’ll try a 3/8 impact and lightly bump it tighter then looser, tighter looser..etc,etc,…

If you’re not experienced removing frozen spark plugs in aluminum I  would find someone who is..
If you’re not experienced in using impacts with aluminum threads, don’t…

The good part, your plugs have washers instead of tapered seats…😇

[Deltarider]

JD, I don't know whether your bike can ride as it is now. If it can, go for a ride. Twenty minutes should be enough. Stop and with the engine hot, try again. I'd be surprised if you then can't get them out. When my engine is hot, I can almost unscrew them by just using my thumb and finger... That is the simplest route by far, the rest of the suggestions here, are for if it doesn't work.

[JDrider]

When I did try the other day. It was really early in the morning.
So I will try when it’s hot.
Thanks.
I will be careful.

[Magpie]

Thanks for the post and replies. I have the same issue. Cliff.

[ekpent]

Its always a big relief on new to me projects when the spark plugs come out without a hassle or damage. Hope you guys do well.

[Deltarider]

When I did try the other day. It was really early in the morning.
So I will try when it’s hot.

If by 'it' you mean temperature during the day, then that will make little or no difference. I meant a hot engine (working temperature). Then it should be easy to do.

[JDrider]

I will run the engine before trying is what I meant.

[grcamna2]

The #2 & #3 get a lot of dirt packed around their spark plug 'well';it doesn't hurt to use a high pressure air blow-gun around those 2) plugs before trying to remove them,otherwise that dirt around the openings to #2&3 will likely enter the cylinders and you'll have a bigger problem after they're removed.

[JDrider]

Yesterday, I used the air compressor and blew out the spark plug wells of any debris.
Then I squirted PB blaster in each and let it soak overnight.
This morning I was able to remove 1,2 and 4.
Number 3 is still not budging in any direction.
So I put a little more penetrating oil in.
After coffee I will run the engine hot and try again.

[newday777]

Yesterday, I used the air compressor and blew out the spark plug wells of any debris.
Then I squirted PB blaster in each and let it soak overnight.
This morning I was able to remove 1,2 and 4.
Number 3 is still not budging in any direction.
So I put a little more penetrating oil in.
After coffee I will run the engine hot and try again.

When you get the plugs back in, before you fire it up, blow out #3 hole again to see if more gunk got loosened up. Then spray in more PB Blaster before starting (PB uses heat to help loosen)

[JDrider]

I heated the bike up for 10 minutes.
Then tried, no luck. More PB blaster.
Let it sit.
Took the bike for a 20 minute ride.
Tried again, won’t budge either direction.
More PB blaster.
Will let sit till tomorrow.

Should I just leave it alone?
The plug that’s in there is probably only 2 years old.
I just wanted to see the condition and replace anyway.

[graeme7]

If the plug is 2 years old, it's just tight, not seized.
Id just put a plug socket on it and a ratchet and break it loose.
Biggest possible issue is it was cross threaded when last fitted.
If that's the case, it will need thread repair.

[JDrider]

I was using a plug socket and smaller socket wrench.
I was afraid to crank down too hard.

[graeme7]

I was using a plug socket and smaller socket wrench.
I was afraid to crank down too hard.

I edited my post as you were replying, a warning about cross threaded.

[ekpent]

I heated the bike up for 10 minutes.
Then tried, no luck. More PB blaster.
Let it sit.
Took the bike for a 20 minute ride.
Tried again, won’t budge either direction.
More PB blaster.
Will let sit till tomorrow.

Should I just leave it alone?
The plug that’s in there is probably only 2 years old.
I just wanted to see the condition and replace anyway.

At this point if the cylinder is firing well just leave it alone.

[JDrider]

That’s what I’m thinking also.

[dave500]

itll have to come out one day though.

[Deltarider]

When in doubt, screw the #2 plug back in and compare the position/looks of #2 and #3 without their caps.
To prevent any possible damage, the use of the Honda plug wrench is the safest strategy. With the plugcap removed, you may try not to forceful tapping with a hammer on its threaded top. For the rest just repeat what you've done before.

[JDrider]

With the plugcap removed, you may try not to forceful tapping with a hammer on its threaded top.

I’m trying to make sense of this.
I can tap the threaded top with a hammer?