Topic: How can I test spokes for possible re-use? (off the rim)

[Kaze]

Howdy.
I have a fist-full of shiny spokes that came off a rim that is said to be no good*. The spokes on my bike are rusty and ugly.
How can I test these shiny spokes to know if they are safe to use on my bike? Should they simply appear flat against a metal straight-edge, or is there a better test?

(* Local Honda dealer's service shop told me my rim was unusable. Took it home, removed the spokes and while the thing sits flat on a metal table, it does appear to be 1mm out of round.)

[Alan F.]

I'd reuse the spokes if they're not bent or have visible damage, threads should be checked for galling or signs of stretch.

A rim 1mm out of round should still be within spec for most bikes per Factory Service Manual.

[bryanj]

I think they were having you over, Honda spec is max of 3mm side to side and same for up and down, dont forget all rims are welded at one point and you will always get a "kick" there when trying to true it

[Kaze]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it.
I'll go ahead and restring 'er, and see about learning how to true my old dang wheels.
I guess "Dial indicator" goes on the shopping list then. Ha

[bryanj]

Dial indicator is way to accurate, just use a bit of bent wire

[Tracksnblades1]

Dial indicator is way to accurate, just use a bit of bent wire

^^^^^^

+1 only way I’ve ever saw it done. If you can’t see it wobble check it with the wire. Up and down too not just side by side..

[newday777]

Howdy.
I have a fist-full of shiny spokes that came off a rim that is said to be no good*. The spokes on my bike are rusty and ugly.
How can I test these shiny spokes to know if they are safe to use on my bike? Should they simply appear flat against a metal straight-edge, or is there a better test?

(* Local Honda dealer's service shop told me my rim was unusable. Took it home, removed the spokes and while the thing sits flat on a metal table, it does appear to be 1mm out of round.)

Welcome aboard the forum Kaze

A bit of clarification......
You say you "have a fist-full of shiny spokes" and rim you took apart and also that "The spokes on my bike are rusty and ugly".
Is this 2 different used rims and spokes/wheels?
Shiny "new spokes" or used?
So the dealer said the rim wasn't usable and they wouldn't true it because of it being 1mm out?

BTW Go to the new members section and introduce yourself and your bike. Pictures are always welcome.

[Kaze]

Clarification: I have 2 wheels. Neither is visually amazing, both are old, but one is certainly better looking than the other.

- The wheel on my K6 has spokes that are completely brown. They aren't broken, nor has rust obviously eaten away at the steel. The zinc/cadmium is either gone or the rust has come through, so the spokes can no longer be polished silver. The wheel has been balanced by a shop and my tire is so new it still has "hair". Nothing "Wrong" with the wheel, it's just that I have enough rust elsewhere.

- The wheel I took to the dealer/service dept. has standard zinc/cadmium plated spokes that polish up nicely, despite being used. The D.I.D. rim has minor spot-rust in places, but generally acceptable IMO. This is the one I was told was "bent". I have since removed the spokes and cleaned everything.

When I said the rim appears out of round, I used a steel ruler at my (flat) workbench. It appears that I was actually using my metal yardstick at the time, not the meter stick, so in fact it may be 1/16th out of round, which as you know is closer to 2mm. I didn't realize the mistake at the time. At any rate, I didn't use tools that a service department would have.

My hope is that at very least I can recycle the used, but more aesthetically pleasing spokes. If I were "lucky" I'd use the rim too.

[jgger]

Before dial indicators were so common, I would use a felt pen. You use pretty much the same way as the wire and eyeball method. Where ever it marks is a "high" spot, tightening the spokes that are 180° from the mark pulls the rim to compensate. It works really well.

[Kaze]

I can actually afford a PEN! And I have space in my workshop for a pen too.
So... if I decide to use the motorcycle itself as a "Truing stand" (because I have no room for large tools like stands) what would I do about a spoke torque wrench? Those suckers are costly, and I need my $100 for parts.

...I'm going to end up doing this myself aren't I? (Been that way for the past dozen bikes and couple decades, so why stop now huh?)

[grcamna2]

Kaze,you can set-up a home-made truing stand which will let you true the wheel/rim both side-to-side And up-and-down. The Up & Down 'hop' can be a pain to true out of a wheel,especially if the wheel had been run into a curb at some point. Did the shop inform you which type of 'runout' your rim had ?

I just purchased this wheel balancer/truing stand for about $100,some assembly required. The balance bearings are very smooth and I'm pleased to have finally made this purchase;it took me long enough to get 'a round tuit' 
I was doing my best using my Park TS-2 bicycle truing stand..     but that wasn't working good;wrong application.

I had used a M/C swing-arm repurposed and modified to be a truing stand in the past.. I have also just taped a pen to the motorcycle and done that for decades,it's just not very accurate.. and with only 2 wheels,you want to be Sure you've got the Least amount of rolling oscillation possible:it doesn't take much to create a dangerous 'tank slapper' or other unsafe condition.      The condition of the roads are bad enough to deal with.

[HondaMan]

If this is a front wheel for your 750K6 and it has just 1 disc brake on it, it should be trued up 2.5mm to 3.5mm off toward the the bike's left side to be OEM. While this is not the true centerline of the bike, it does help keep the bike straight in a hard stop with the front disc. If you have dual discs then align it to centerline of the bike instead.

A side note about this: the offset that Honda put on these front ends amplifies any effects from a squared-off rear tire, or uneven ("snatching") drive chain, making the bike's head tend to shake when coasting down a slope with lightly-held handlebars.

Truing a single-disc front wheel to center will cause a slight tendency to pull to the left under hard front braking.

[Kaze]

I hate to say so, but truing a wheel to be offset 2.5mm sounds harder than just putting a second disc brake on! Ha!

Thanks everyone. This gives me something to think about. I like how alert people on this forum are.