Author Topic: Best clearcoat or protectant for Polished Aluminum? Like the factory used...  (Read 16375 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline GroovieGhoulie

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,753
  • I have to return some videotapes.
I need to clean up a few spots on the valve cover and engine cases on the 750 and I know the problem is that once you polish aluminum you need to re-polish often because it corrodes fast.  The factory Honda coating is good for a few decades, but well...it's BEEN a few decades and it's time to freshen it up.  It's still 80-85% OK, but there are some spots of nastiness.

What's the best thing that I can spray over the polished aluminum so it'll "keep" and not require re-polishing in short order?  Bonus would be that it last as long as the factory finish.  Obviously it needs to be heat resistant because it's going on the engine and such.

Any ideas?

Offline rhinoracer

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 664
Powdercoating, duplicolor engine enamel, duplicolor wheel paint?
Baja native.

Offline Lumbee

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,498
    • My pics...
...zoop... expensive, but supposed to be the shiz-nit...
----------
"I'm not a welder, but I play one on HondaChopper.com"

wesniles

  • Guest
the factory probably anodized the aluminum, nothing is going to be as good or as hard as that, but whenever i needed to clear a metal part i used a product made by the eastwood company called diamond clear.

LINK:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=415&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=400&iSubCat=403&iProductID=415

Mainly because of ease of use (spray can) and it seemed to stand up ok to the elements.

Offline 736cc

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,724
Re; your post on valve cover, I've seen good reults hand-polishing then clearing w/  Eastwood clear rattle can, but if you want  something a bit more hi-tech, I highly recommend CERAMIC COATING which is SUPER DURABLE and LONG LASTING and available in an absolutely beautiful polished aluminum finish. I am enclosing examples from my national show-winning restorations. My shop "CB750 Garage" carries CB750 pieces already refinished, with or without a usable core exchange. Email detail@optonline.net

Thank you,- Andy Morris (aka 736cc)



« Last Edit: March 15, 2007, 10:36:40 AM by 736cc »

Offline Gordon

  • Global Moderator
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *****
  • Posts: 12,114
  • 750K1, 550K2
I know the problem is that once you polish aluminum you need to re-polish often because it corrodes fast. 

Polishing without clear-coat lasts quite a bit longer than you might think.  I polished the valve cover and engine covers on my 750 three years ago, and they still look just as good today.  The only upkeep I've done is use some Nev-R-Dull on them a couple of times a year just to clean them up.

Offline Rookster

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 729
I agree with Gordon on this one.  Polished aluminum will hold its shine as long as you hit it with some simichrome or mothers mag/aluminum polish a few times per year.  Clearing anything over aluminum is not a permanent fix because when the aluminum s starting to corode under the clearcoat you cannot take it off with some polish on a rag.  The aluminum just sits there and corrodes eventually messing up the clearcoat.  Harley uses a clearcoat on their polished aluminum engine covers and they last about 4-5 years before you notice some squigly lines under the clearcoat.  The only fix is to strip the clear and repolish the item.  Leave it bare polished and you can keep it looking shiny forever as long as your willing to do some maintenance.
Scott

Offline mazingerzeca

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 587
...zoop... expensive, but supposed to be the shiz-nit...

Do you refer to this? http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp

Offline Lumbee

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,498
    • My pics...
...zoop... expensive, but supposed to be the shiz-nit...

Do you refer to this? http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp

...WOW!  Only $80...I'll get right on that!!!   ::)   ;D

...sorry still to expensive for me...
----------
"I'm not a welder, but I play one on HondaChopper.com"

Offline mazingerzeca

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 587
what about anodyzing them on silver? Any experience?

Offline BobbyR

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 12,367
  • Proud Owner of the Babe Thread & Dirty Old Man
I have heard that clear can yellow. If you do a quick buff with a wheel in the beginning of the season, they will always look good.
Dedicated to Sgt. Howard Bruckner 1950 - 1969. KIA LONG KHANH.

But we were boys, and boys will be boys, and so they will. To us, everything was dangerous, but what of that? Had we not been made to live forever?

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
I wish I knew what Honda used on the polished covers.  Worked well for a long time.  But, it probably doesn't matter.  I doubt the governments federal or state EPA guidelines would allow you to obtain it anyway.  It's important to note that Honda's covers weren't highly polished for a reason.  They were satin or brushed finished because those surface conditions allowed the coating to grab onto the surface.  Putting an organic coating such as paint over a highly polished surface often results in failure as the coating comes off in sheets.

Leaving the polished aluminum without a coating means that you will have to re-polish in the future.  The frequency of the polishing effort will depend and the atmosphere the surface is exposed to and the alloy composition of the aluminum, in particular, the copper content.   A dry, cool climate will increase the polished surface longevity.  Warm, humid climates cause rapid dulling and the need for repeat treatments.  Atmospheric impurities also have a negative effect on maintaining surface polish.  If you have acid rain, ocean salt spray, or airborne chlorine from a nearby pool or water treatment facility, you can expect surface dulling to occur at a faster rate.

The squiggly line corrosion, to which Rookster refers, is called filiform corrosion.  It occurs under coatings that have had poor surface prep, and/or microscopic coating pores where atmospheric contamination and humidity have reached the aluminum alloy underbase.  It is not generic to a clearcoat, but can certainly occur with such a coating.

If you can still get clear lacquer where you live, I can definitely advise against its use.  It will yellow with age and stands up poorly to the sun's UV light spectrum.


Cheers,

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline GroovieGhoulie

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,753
  • I have to return some videotapes.
The squiggly line corrosion, to which Rookster refers, is called filiform corrosion.  It occurs under coatings that have had poor surface prep, and/or microscopic coating pores where atmospheric contamination and humidity have reached the aluminum alloy underbase.  It is not generic to a clearcoat, but can certainly occur with such a coating.

That's what I have now, the squiggly lines.  I think moisture got under the Honda coating and did it.

I actually LIKE the brushed satin finish, but am not sure how to keep it and clean the corrosion.

I was talking with 736cc and he said that only having a little bit of the corrosion adds patina and character to an old bike and since it's a rider and not a concours bike, it's preferable to some people.  I'm re-thinking it and I might just go with it, because I don't wanna go tearing into the cases and such since the bike is so original.

Offline TwoTired

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,805
The satin finish is achieved with 400 or 320 aluminum oxide paper, if I recall correctly.  If you look close, you'll see a grain or direction of the tiny scratches.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline 736cc

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,724
Nice patina


Bad patina

« Last Edit: March 15, 2007, 03:44:50 PM by 736cc »

Offline mazingerzeca

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 587
Re; your post on valve cover, I've seen good reults hand-polishing then clearing w/  Eastwood clear rattle can, but if you want  something a bit more hi-tech, I highly recommend CERAMIC COATING which is SUPER DURABLE and LONG LASTING and available in an absolutely beautiful polished aluminum finish. I am enclosing examples from my national show-winning restorations. My shop "CB750 Garage" carries CB750 pieces already refinished, with or without a usable core exchange. Email detail@optonline.net
Hello. Could you give some more details about ceramic coating? I've been searching for that kind of painting in Spain with the litheral translation of "ceramic coating" and I didn't find anything. If you have any link to a shop webpage or some more information I could find this work method in Spain. Thank you.

Offline 736cc

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,724
We don't have a website yet but we're working on it. Not all ceramic coat finishes are the same; I specialize ONLY in 1969-78 CB750 engine covers re-finished with ceramic coated polished aluminum, using orig cores PROPERLY prepped and finished, ready to bolt-on, miinus gaskets and o-rings. BEAUTIFUL show-quality and extremely durable (rated to 1300 degrees F), these are the same covers from my national show-winning CB750's. This stuff is the cat's meow. Email detail@optonline.net for rates and options. Thank you.

Offline dakeddie

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 135
what about anodyzing them on silver? Any experience?

I've had cast aluminum parts anodized 'clear' before and they come out fairly dark grey.... nothing like what a 6061T6 part looks like when it's anodized clear, but similar to a 6061 part that's been hard anodized clear - a hard anodize is just a very thick anodize layer.  I've never tried honda parts, but I suspect they will turn out dark... not silver.

Offline nteek754

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 364
  • 1973 K3/750/836/70 1970 750 chopper 1973 cafe
Hey all here is something to consider I found at my local parts store (car) a two part clearcoat it comes wiith the activater and just before use you  stick it onto the bottom of the spray can and then there is a time frame to how long youve got to use it up a bit pricy at 19.95 a can whats the world comeing to a 20 dollar rattle can of paint might be good and tough lets keep trying differant  things  I know I just did some lower legs for my 750 and  I started with 80 grit sand paper ( they been in the garage forever) and got knicked and banged around for years but they came out good  I keep stepping down with sandpaper and  stop with 800 then its mothers cream and  buff buff here buff buff there have fun seven fifty four ever Craig in Maine
seven fifty four ever its not the destination its the journey Ive been collecting these old dinasours for 33 years . they are quite an ICON

Offline greenjeans

  • Industrial strengthed dreamer.
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,962
  • 1972 CB750K2
Hey all here is something to consider I found at my local parts store (car) a two part clearcoat it comes wiith the activater and just before use you  stick it onto the bottom of the spray can and then there is a time frame to how long youve got to use it up a bit pricy at 19.95 a can whats the world comeing to a 20 dollar rattle can of paint might be good and tough lets keep trying differant  things  I know I just did some lower legs for my 750 and  I started with 80 grit sand paper ( they been in the garage forever) and got knicked and banged around for years but they came out good  I keep stepping down with sandpaper and  stop with 800 then its mothers cream and  buff buff here buff buff there have fun seven fifty four ever Craig in Maine

What auto parts store ?  and what's the brand name ?  Anything with a hardener stands a good chance of holding up pretty good
Yep, I'm the kid that figured out how to put things back together...eventually.

Offline Lumbee

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,498
    • My pics...
http://bradystools.stores.yahoo.net/twoparacucl1.html

...i'v got a can, hopfully i'll be shooting it this weekend...
----------
"I'm not a welder, but I play one on HondaChopper.com"

Offline 736cc

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,724
You can strip, sand, buff, polish, shake a rattle can, but THIS stuff is the ultimate instant gratification. I have yet to see any finish that compares to this.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2007, 02:22:21 PM by 736cc »

Offline greenjeans

  • Industrial strengthed dreamer.
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,962
  • 1972 CB750K2
You've got a point......but 20 bucks and some elbow grease is hard to pass up sometimes.
Ou tof curiosity, how much would it take to ceramic coat my side covers , valve covers, & fork bottoms
assuming I'd do all the polishing?
Yep, I'm the kid that figured out how to put things back together...eventually.

Offline Ricky_Racer

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,598
Mark "Lumbee", it'll be very interesting to get your impression of the SprayMax two-part rattle can.. Please keep us informed!

Andy, your bikes are unreal!  Got a question, though... Some of the "chrome" ceramic coating I've seen done seems to have a slight "orange peel" or "hammered" finish.  I understand that is a function of the mixture and heating range rather than surface prep.  So, although I know you can Scotchbrite this stuff for a dull look, can it also be wet-sanded and buffed for a smoother finish?

Thanks! RR
I was put on Earth to accomplish a certain number of things. Now I'm so far behind, I'll never die!

Offline 736cc

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,724
Quote
You've got a point......but 20 bucks and some elbow grease is hard to pass up sometimes.
Ou tof curiosity, how much would it take to ceramic coat my side covers , valve covers, & fork bottoms
assuming I'd do all the polishing?
You need not do any polishing or cleaning; the parts are already completely re-finished and ready to ship. You can purchase pieces outright or w/ a core exchange discount. You can also have your parts ceramic coated at same rate as the core exchange. Right now, I am specializing in CB750 engine covers only. In the future we will also do headers, brackets, forks etc. Interested parties please send a personal email detail@optonline.net for rates (I AM plugging my wares but don't want to seem too commercial in a forum). Thankyou- 736cc

Quote
Andy, your bikes are unreal!  Got a question, though... Some of the "chrome" ceramic coating I've seen done seems to have a slight "orange peel" or "hammered" finish.  I understand that is a function of the mixture and heating range rather than surface prep.  So, although I know you can Scotchbrite this stuff for a dull look, can it also be wet-sanded and buffed for a smoother finish?

Thanks! RR
The pieces get a final tumble-buff in a vat of beads and a special polishing solution. Any additional hand-buffing not really needed, but when you do they get slightly shinier and smoother. Mantainance consists of the usual bike-washing or damp-wiping (any ammonia-free glass cleaner like Glass Plus, instant detail spray, etc). A swipe w/ aluminum polish for stubborn things like bugs, grease, etc will keep them in new condition indefinately. This finish is used on turbocharger blades(!), so its extremely durable. Wet-sanding really not needed, and that only works on flat surfaces anyway. A chrome-like mirror finish is not the desired result, anyway; the aim (and very close result) is a slightly satin-like aluminum sheen, like OEM. But INFINATELY more durable!
« Last Edit: March 16, 2007, 03:43:34 PM by 736cc »