Topic: Hesitation and Stalling Issue

[WWrides]

I recommend doing an exhaustive search for an NOS original Honda fuel/petcock using the part# I provided,eventually you will locate one.
The other option is to find a decent used orig. stock Honda valve for your 350F and rebuild the rubber parts inside it. 

I have searched extensively. It doesn't seem to be available at all. I may try to find a new valve to retrofit, though.

[grcamna2]

I recommend doing an exhaustive search for an NOS original Honda fuel/petcock using the part# I provided,eventually you will locate one.
The other option is to find a decent used orig. stock Honda valve for your 350F and rebuild the rubber parts inside it. 

I have searched extensively. It doesn't seem to be available at all. I may try to find a new valve to retrofit, though.

I understand. 
I've been online searching for you.
I edited my reply #48.
I try to stay away from China-manufactured aftermarket fuel valves:they don't last.

The 'trick' is to find a person(a retired Plumber)that knows how to solder/repair those brass parts 

[WWrides]

Just found an OEM tank for sale on EBay WITH the petcock!! Unfortunately, they won't sell me just the petcock, or let me buy it directly and end the bidding. Crossing my fingers that I can get it, but I won't be willing to pay an arm and a leg for it, so I'm not sure I will.

[HondaMan]

Barring the whole-tank-and-petcock route, I can offer this from an experience I've had with the 750 dual-outlet petcock that yours appears to have now:

The dual-outlet arrangement will NOT flow fuel if the unused petcock's nipple is not 100% capped and sealed. This can be accomplished using the little spring-wire clips that Honda originally used on the fuel lines, but on your petcock where it now has a vinyl cap. This cap is not a perfect fit: if you can either use one of these spring clips or even a twisty-tie (wire type) from a loaf of bread's wrapper, or a small-gage wire to twist-seal it snugly, it will improve the fuel flow from the remaining spigot.

The reason is: the slight vacuum that makes these petcocks work gets 'broken' if even the slightest amount of air seeps into the capped-off pipe. I've run into this when the later CB750K5 bikes went from the dual-inlet carbs to the single-inlet carbs and the petcocks became plugged by Honda until the single-outlet petcocks appeared (about a month later). Honda removed the brass pipe of the second outlet and poured a sealant (probably epoxy) into that unused hole. When I got 'stuck' with the dual-outlet petcocks when replacing one on a 750K5 because the sealant seeped gas out on the engine, it became necessary to fully seal the extra spigot. I used fuel-resistant epoxy inside that little pipe, plus a cap similar to yours (but black) with the little wire clip, and it solved it. Fortunately it was not visible when the tank was mounted, so the customer was happy with it in the end. Prior to sealing the 2nd pipe completely, the first pipe took almost 10 minutes to fill the carbs because the vacuum kept getting broken by the other pipe's vacuum leak.

[WWrides]

I have never been so elated and so disappointed in the span of five minutes then when I finished working on my bike last night. I figured out how to take the things apart that I needed to in order to remove the old fuel line, clean some things up, and do my best to run a new fuel line with the petcock I currently have. I cut the stem as short as I could so that it could fit a bit of fuel line, attached a small 90º filter, and then the remainder of the fuel line (New Fuel Line 1 & 2). After trying to start her back up again, she started and sounded glorious!! I decided to try to ride her around the neighborhood a bit.

But, ALAS! As soon as I put her in gear, the lights went out and the engined shut off. I tried to start it up again (lights were working, but seemed dim), but it didn't work. At that point, it was almost midnight, so I went to bed.

TODAY, I worked on it for quite some time trying to figure out with this new issue is, and I got stuck. I brought the battery to Batteries Plus to check if it was charged and could hold a load. The battery read perfectly. I bought a voltage meter (see pic1) and started testing the various components that help regulate/charge the electrical system. I successfully tested the rectifier (which is new), and it had continuity. I went to check the regulator (see pic2) next, but the instructions (see pic3) made no sense to me, and when I put one lead line of the tester on the green connection and the other lead line was grounded on the frame, there was no reading (when I changed to dial to "200m V" on the left side, the reading was a negative number). I then attempted to read any of the terminals and had the same result. And, as far as the stator goes, I couldn't even get to it. I have a very stubborn screw in the cover and even after using a bit to strip the head completely (since it was already stripped) and grab the thread, it wouldn't budge! So, my assumption is that it's the stator since the battery doesn't seem to keep its charge while it's running.

All of this to say, I may be in over my head. I'm pretty bummed right now. I do love this motorcycle, but I also want to ride. The first two weeks of riding was glorious, but now it has spent more time in the shop and being worked on than ridden. I suppose I'm asking what's the best thing I could do to get it running again so I can sell it off, try not to loose too much money on it, and get it to someone who has more than one bike and loves working on them? I am learning a lot, but I don't have the money to own a bike to ride and a project bike.

[WWrides]

Barring the whole-tank-and-petcock route, I can offer this from an experience I've had with the 750 dual-outlet petcock that yours appears to have now:

The dual-outlet arrangement will NOT flow fuel if the unused petcock's nipple is not 100% capped and sealed. This can be accomplished using the little spring-wire clips that Honda originally used on the fuel lines, but on your petcock where it now has a vinyl cap. This cap is not a perfect fit: if you can either use one of these spring clips or even a twisty-tie (wire type) from a loaf of bread's wrapper, or a small-gage wire to twist-seal it snugly, it will improve the fuel flow from the remaining spigot.

The reason is: the slight vacuum that makes these petcocks work gets 'broken' if even the slightest amount of air seeps into the capped-off pipe. I've run into this when the later CB750K5 bikes went from the dual-inlet carbs to the single-inlet carbs and the petcocks became plugged by Honda until the single-outlet petcocks appeared (about a month later). Honda removed the brass pipe of the second outlet and poured a sealant (probably epoxy) into that unused hole. When I got 'stuck' with the dual-outlet petcocks when replacing one on a 750K5 because the sealant seeped gas out on the engine, it became necessary to fully seal the extra spigot. I used fuel-resistant epoxy inside that little pipe, plus a cap similar to yours (but black) with the little wire clip, and it solved it. Fortunately it was not visible when the tank was mounted, so the customer was happy with it in the end. Prior to sealing the 2nd pipe completely, the first pipe took almost 10 minutes to fill the carbs because the vacuum kept getting broken by the other pipe's vacuum leak.

Thanks for the advice. You can see what I ended up doing on my previous post prior to seeing your advice. I think I no longer have a problem with the fuel line. Now it's something else.

[RAFster122s]

I suspect you have a wiring issue on your regulator/rectifier that isn't having the regulator generate power because the reference voltage that tells it to do to is missing. Not uncommon for people to run into wiring issues with modern rectifiers and regulators as terms are a bit different and it gets confusing, so it is a command issue.
Don't throw in the towel quite yet, consider it eating an elephant, only way to do it is one bite at a time...

What regulator and rectifier do you have and what are the wire colors and where do they go on the bike's wiring?

Stators are rare to go bad, dirty or corroded connectors or wire breaks in connection to the winding wires happen sometimes, but rare on the SOHC4 bikes to have dead stators.

[HondaMan]

The Green wire on the voltage regulator is Ground, so your reading there sounds normal.
I'd suggest this next: the fuseclips in these bikes were supposed to be a 10-year-life product (in 1974!), so they are usually crusty. This causes them to heat up when used, and often this can even melt the fuse in use as the result. So, find your main fuse (and disconnect the (+) lead form your battery while doing this next step) and remove it from its holder, then see if you can clean the fuse's mounting clips. I use steel wool or very fine emery paper and clean them up afterward with a drop of oil on a rag to try to prevent (or at least retard) the future re-growth of crud.

I have a similar 350F in my shed: I'll look at it on Saturday to see if I can be more explicit with the electrical advice. I work during the day and it is dark already when I get home this time of year!