Author Topic: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem  (Read 463 times)

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Offline twright3

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k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« on: November 17, 2023, 12:55:37 PM »
My return spring isn't working. I replaced the boots and must have disrupted the spring. Photo spring1 shows the rearward end of the spring. Photo spring2 shows the forward end of the spring. So both ends of the spring are resting on essential the same thing resulting in no spring tension. So one end at least is on the wrong place. Can someone tell me what's wrong? Pictures of the correct placement would be really helpful.

Offline twright3

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Re: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2023, 02:24:43 PM »
I figured it out: there should be another spring. The one shown is unrelated. There should be a coil spring with hooks on the ends that go into 2 holes about a mm in diameter that are fairly obvious. I can't figure out what happened to mine. I see they are available but I'll do a little more searching first.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2023, 03:17:33 PM by twright3 »

Offline HondaMan

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Re: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2023, 06:59:51 PM »
Check at your local Ace Hardware. Theirs is a little less strong and a bit long, but I have cut them off and bent the bottom coil to fit, and they work.

That spring you mention above: one side of the spring should be on one side of the stop, and the other on the other, fighting each other. That is the tension device for the throttle actuator. If it is not sprung correctly the throttle may not pull open (or push closed) using the push-pull throttle grip (2-cable system for safety). This fancy arrangement began because of the tendency for multiple slides to stick open in the 4-cable throttle of the K0 bikes.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Offline ekpent

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Re: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2023, 04:49:43 AM »
You should also have a little flat metal tab/plate with a hole in it that fits between carb 2 and 3 down by the  float bowls that the spring attaches to also.

Offline MauiK3

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Re: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2023, 06:18:39 AM »
I always thought those springs were a kind of cushion between the cable pull in either direction and the carbs to make sure the carbs don't see too much force. A shock absorber so to speak.
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: k1 Throttle Return Spring problem
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2023, 07:12:29 PM »
I always thought those springs were a kind of cushion between the cable pull in either direction and the carbs to make sure the carbs don't see too much force. A shock absorber so to speak.

Technically, they are a precision-control method for the dual-cable setup which makes it possible to set up a zero-lash precision throttle. Like so many things CB750, it was the first of its kind, and Honda was concerned that if a [clumsy] mechanic over-tightened the cables in order to provide 'precise speed control' of an already somewhat-jerky throttle that this would lead to premature cable wear/failure and a bad image for the bike. And, like many of these things in the 750, only the 750 ended up having them (industry-wide) because it was, in a word, overkill. Admittedly, the 750 does have a sudden throttle below 25% or so, a situation which was overly remedied in the (much more expensive and complex) PD carbs by using variable bellcrank leverage angles - which became the infamous 'flat spot' in the middle of the 500/550 throttle instead. This morphed into the PD carbs in the last 2 years of the 750, too, but there it did make things smoother when riding in city traffic. While it was done in those later bikes for emissions reasons, it 'cost' other things in those engines and frames to make up for the expense of those carbs - things like cheaper swingarm bushings (and their lube system), cheaper engine cases that needed spacers in the tranny to fit things right, and cheaper valve guides, with simple reinforcement ribs on the cylinder fins instead of carefully-cast struts and airflow ports that required hand-cleaning after casting. Even the headlight fork ears in the later bikes were shrunk to save a few Yen (for the metal's cost), and other things like that. Heck, the 1-piece output shaft to the countersprocket lost the following parts in those bikes: 1.) oil adjuster screw, 2.) oil pan, 3.) oil adjuster screen, 4.) oil metering seal, 5.) oil metering seal mount, 6. Outer mounting nut for all this, with tapped hole, 7.) machined thru-port, 8.) floating sprocket retainer and 9.) its locktab: all those later bikes got was 1.) a tapped hole partway thru the shaft with 2.) a bolt and 3.) washer on it, and an O-ring chain as the 'apology' for it (IMHO)! ;)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com