Topic: Gauge needle - Testor international orange substitute/gauge housing colors

[zabzob]

The "most correct" colour for needles seems to be Testors International Orange FS 12197, but Testors has been shut down after an acquisition, so it's not easy to come by some of the colours. Anybody have a good match elsewhere? This chart:

https://www.plasticmodels.co.nz/federal-standard-paint-conversion/

says Tamiya X-6 Orange, and I've picked up a bottle... I'm not convinced though. Seems like it should have a bit more red in it? I don't have my new gauge faces yet to colour match, just trying to get all my ducks in a row...

[MauiK3]

I bought a set of oil paints and made some paint for uses like this. I suppose this could apply to this issue with a little trial and error.

[SanDogDewey]

I used Testors Red Fluorescent paint. It’s a good match.

[newday777]

https://racingcar-store.myshopify.com/products/testors-4682-model-master-international-orange-fs12197-1-2-oz-4682

[zabzob]

Thanks all! I was considering that fluorescent orange, still available locally. @newday777, I tried to check out that store and it said the owner had exceeded the number of test transactions and should set up a real account. Weird vibes :| I think the thing to do is compare it to my new gauge faces, once I get them. I'll bring them with me to the local hobby store.

A related question, the black housings and the mount for the gauges need a fresh coat as well. Being as accurate as possible if I can. I see some debate around gauge housing being either semi-gloss that develops a patina to a nice satin over time, or that it was satin to begin with.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,42499.msg439624.html#msg439624

For the mount, I'm assuming that would be a semi-gloss like the frame?

[Nightshift]

I used Testors Red Fluorescent paint. It’s a good match.

I bought the same one today at Hobby Lobby. Last one in the rack-o-colors! Bill

[grcamna2]

I believe the original color for the needle tips is a true red.

[jlh3rd]

Thanks all! I was considering that fluorescent orange, still available locally. @newday777, I tried to check out that store and it said the owner had exceeded the number of test transactions and should set up a real account. Weird vibes :| I think the thing to do is compare it to my new gauge faces, once I get them. I'll bring them with me to the local hobby store.

A related question, the black housings and the mount for the gauges need a fresh coat as well. Being as accurate as possible if I can. I see some debate around gauge housing being either semi-gloss that develops a patina to a nice satin over time, or that it was satin to begin with.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,42499.msg439624.html#msg439624

For the mount, I'm assuming that would be a semi-gloss like the frame?

there's no official color for the gauge cases. Honda "NH1" is black. Doesn't say satin, gloss, semi-gloss. So it's whatever one thinks matches.
This is a set of '75 550F gauges , the speedometer is NOS. The tach is one I "restored " using a new face and touched up needle. It matches the speedometer's case practically, if not exactly.
The paint is from Eastwood and is not a gloss, semigloss , or satin. It is between satin and semigloss .
I think it is the best match.
If you look at the glare pattern from the light reflected on the two cases, you can see they are near equal. It's a good test using reflectivity as a measure of equal "shine".
Hope this helps......my opinion.

I've never dealt with the mount color sheen, or a frame's official black color.

[SanDogDewey]

Here's Testors Fluorescent Red with new gauge faces from Yamiya.

[jlh3rd]

here's an NOS '75 speedometer. Tip looks more orange than red....Especially when compared to the 70 tick mark.

[jlh3rd]

here's an NOS '77 tach....

[MauiK3]

After some time in the sun red paint tends to deteriorate pretty quickly, the color will change.

[beemerbum]

WOW! a discussion of the true color for the tip of the needle! That's what makes this site so great. Something to learn about our favorite bikes every day

[jlh3rd]

well, the OP asked.....😉

[beemerbum]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

[PeWe]

Maybe not that good photo.
Here my NOS K2 gauges before use.
 black.

Same gauges last season


I found photos I published here on my NOS K6 gauges and an old K3-K6 tacho I had sprayed the upper black cover with satin black.
Stock are not glossy

The old tacho in the middle. Strange how bleached the "red" area can become by sunlight.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,61168.msg1997420.html#msg1997420

[jlh3rd]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

I believe the K1s' clocks are only held together by a clamp. All you need is the faceplate, and instructions on how to get the delicate needle off. Google. Some suggestions said use a fork.

but, there is a problem with the aftermarket faceplates at night. If you decide to go that route, I can explain and offer a solution.

[newday777]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

I believe the K1s' clocks are only held together by a clamp. All you need is the faceplate, and instructions on how to get the delicate needle off. Google. Some suggestions said use a fork.

but, there is a problem with the aftermarket faceplates at night. If you decide to go that route, I can explain and offer a solution.

Are the K1 band metal or do the K1 have plastic cases like the K0?

[jlh3rd]

I'm not a 750 guy....this guy does have useful info...

[WideAWAKE]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

The cosmetics of gauge repair is quite simple.

I believe from k1 onward it’s just a matter of undoing the crimp in the back.

Couple of spoons to pop the needle and a small driver to remove the screws.

Gauge faces are about 30 bucks.


- to the OP, testors fluorescent red is pretty bang on.
My K0 gauges





 

[grcamna2]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

The cosmetics of gauge repair is quite simple.

I believe from k1 onward it’s just a matter of undoing the crimp in the back.

Couple of spoons to pop the needle and a small driver to remove the screws.

Gauge faces are about 30 bucks.


- to the OP, testors fluorescent red is pretty bang on.
My K0 gauges

Nice work 

[zabzob]

Well, got myself some fluorescent red paint in advance of getting my gauge faces, because I wanted to have it all ready for final assembly. Needle tips were already painted when the faces arrived. I compared them tonight, and it turns out the faces from cb750faces are much more orange than red. I'm going to get some of that orange paint I originally had and do some test strips for comparison. Maybe I'll try a mix if neither one is close enough on its own. Not the end of the world if I can't find an exact match, but I'd like to have it as close as possible because this is a job I only want to do once...

[newday777]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

PM sent

[newday777]

Well, got myself some fluorescent red paint in advance of getting my gauge faces, because I wanted to have it all ready for final assembly. Needle tips were already painted when the faces arrived. I compared them tonight, and it turns out the faces from cb750faces are much more orange than red. I'm going to get some of that orange paint I originally had and do some test strips for comparison. Maybe I'll try a mix if neither one is close enough on its own. Not the end of the world if I can't find an exact match, but I'd like to have it as close as possible because this is a job I only want to do once...

Yes the face plate does have more orange to it. This is on your 750K5 ?(you haven't said what it was in this thread)
Remember,  each model change have different colors to the gauges so yes a custom mix might be a necessity for an exact match.

[willbird]

Seriously.. it sounds like there are members out there who have the skill, knowledge and tools to get into the guts of these clocks and repair them. Do any of you take on outside work? My K1 tach has a faceplate that is a little warped. It won't let the needle go past 3000 rpm. Otherwise it is in good shape. I have learned that there is not a direct geared connection to the input cable, so there is no damage caused by the needle hitting the warped part. Can someone fix this. I know time and skill cost money

I believe the K1s' clocks are only held together by a clamp. All you need is the faceplate, and instructions on how to get the delicate needle off. Google. Some suggestions said use a fork.

but, there is a problem with the aftermarket faceplates at night. If you decide to go that route, I can explain and offer a solution.

What is the issue at night ?? Are you referring to the CB750faces faceplates ?

Bill