Author Topic: Projects, gotta love 'em! (Read 5017 times)

kslrr · « **on:** March 15, 2007, 08:14:39 PM »

This is my 25 year '72 CB350F project. When I purchased the bike in 1979

for $500 it had already been converted to a cafe with the custom 1 off pipes, which were black chrome then, a home made faring similar to Heff's, a tail piece with the stock tail/brake light and the clubman bars. The paint was still the stock metallic green with some fading. I started doing electrical mods right away because I like to tinker (I made a brake light failure indicator and a switch to drop the lights when I wanted to 'vanish' into the night). Since then there have been many mods. Excel high output coils, opened up the pipe, re-jetted the carbs, tried pods for a while. The top end has been bored out twice and the entire engine/transmission has been overhauled. The cam was reground to a hot street profile.

I made some mistakes when it came to the valves and a complete head job by a performance shop is needed. I would also like to do the cylinders/pistons/rods again with the real good stuff!

As far as the electrical system goes, this is rev 2.0 of my own design. I call it 'cycle bus' because instead of a harness, there are ribbon cables and modules and by using plug in circuit cards the handle bar control switches are somewhat programable.

Here is one pic so far. Forgive is it does not work. I am still new at this.

kslrr · « **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2007, 08:25:44 PM »

Ok, cool it worked. So on with the story.

Please note how these pipes fit in closer than the CB400 pipes. Like I said they were black chrome at one time. The red and black paint was a cheep try. I have found a guy that will cover them in black ceramic which he says will shine like chrome. Oh and the finned points cover is from a CB750 that some guy dumped behind an abandoned house. I had no way of taking the entire bike nor any place to put it since I was living with a friend at the time (had just been kicked out of the house by my wife who is no my ex). The 750 slowly disappeared piece by piece.

kslrr · « **Reply #2 on:** March 15, 2007, 08:27:45 PM »

Also note how the megaphone tucks in close to the swingarm. I have not seen 4-into-1's that I like better than mine.

kslrr · « **Reply #3 on:** March 15, 2007, 08:42:50 PM »

Here are views of the electrical/electronics system showing the ribbon cables and modules.

Electronic Tach and gauges. The small switches enable the head lights and electric blowers if I implement those.

Electronic 'key' LED's indicate power and ignition, a button enables the ignition.

Front main 'cycle bus'. There were 3 other head lights here until my step son (9 at the time) tried to move the bike without my knowledge 3 years ago. The bike fell into a bush. I was so glad it did not fall on him.

Central power distribution module

Mid sensors (oil pressure, engine temp, neutral switch) input module. I made an aluminum battery holder.

Front I/O module (handle bar controls go into here) and other side of main 'cycle bus'. The small relay controls the gauge lighting.

So there we are so far. This is not my only project, I will add those as I get the pics together.

Roach Carver · « **Reply #4 on:** March 15, 2007, 08:56:42 PM »

bill440cars · « **Reply #5 on:** March 16, 2007, 07:40:58 AM »

Sure couldn't tell ALL that by looking.

Thanks for the details and pictures, that was very interesting about the way you've rewired things and all. How'd you come up with the idea? Does it have anything to do with what you do for a living? Tell us more. Inquiring minds want to know.

Later on, Bill

kslrr · « **Reply #6 on:** March 16, 2007, 07:52:21 AM »

Yes it does Bill. I have a BS in Electronics Engineering and I have worked in the building controls industry for 22+ years. I have designed and built micro computers in the past and building controls are modular as well and I just thought one day 'hey, why not apply that to a bike electrical system' after reading an article in Popular Science about how car electrical systems are going modular. And I always figure that I have a better way of doing things.

tsflstb · « **Reply #7 on:** March 16, 2007, 09:43:54 AM »

Careful that thing doesn't develop intelligence and turn against you.

kslrr · « **Reply #8 on:** March 16, 2007, 10:54:14 AM »

This is a sample of what I have worked with in my career over the last 2 decades and where I draw my ideas from.

kslrr · « **Reply #9 on:** March 16, 2007, 11:01:30 AM »

Here is a close up of the 'key' It is a circuit board with wires that create a 'code' that enables logic gates (I know, sounds like TRON

) on the main enable board which is plugged into the 'bus'. On top are 3 LED's. The RED indicates unswitched 12v available (I think, it has been awhile

), the YELLOW indicates that the switched 12v has been enabled by the 'key'. Pressing the small white button enables the ignition power, indicated by GREEN. The circuit is latched as long as the 'key' is in the slot. The whole thing is incased in epoxy and attached to the Bud keychain to complete the device. There are a few bugs in the main board that I have yet to trouble shoot. $:-\$

kslrr · « **Reply #10 on:** March 16, 2007, 11:06:48 AM »

Here is another close up of the one headlight which moves with the forks. The other three will be stationary. In all there will be 2 fog lights and 2 driving lights that can be selected in different combinations. So in a sense I see this as an endurance racer.

kslrr · « **Reply #11 on:** March 16, 2007, 11:10:52 AM »

The brake line and clutch cable are tied together to keep them above and out of the way of the 'cycle bus' / circuit board support / head lights support assembly. I am known to make things complicated.

jevfro · « **Reply #12 on:** March 16, 2007, 04:37:19 PM »

WoW!

Very industrial! I like that alot! Maybe a lil' refinement on the "cyclebus" and those gadges so they're not so... impaling?

and I'd buy it! How much would you say the parts set you back? Any chance you want to teach me how to do some of those hardcore mods? I bet your computer looks like a motorcycle!

kslrr · « **Reply #13 on:** March 16, 2007, 06:38:24 PM »

Yes, it does look a bit dangerous doesn't it? That is part of the Mad Max look because in this case form follows function. I never kept track of the costs. Many times I would not even have an idea until I visited an electronics surplus store or a hardware store, looked around for awhile and then formed a vision in my head. That front section is made of heavy straps from Home Depot and sheet aluminum that I have had for years. The faring will be made from this sheet aluminum also, using aluminum stock that is used for making shower doors as a sub frame for the faring. The first concept of the 'cyclebus' was drawn up using a European CAD program called Integral Plan. Maybe soon I will be able to post the schematic.

PS, no my PC does not look like a motorcycle, yet.

keiths · « **Reply #14 on:** March 16, 2007, 07:02:26 PM »

Great Idea, but I wouldn't want to get it wet. I'd love to see those schematics.

kslrr · « **Reply #15 on:** March 16, 2007, 08:20:16 PM »

The back sides of the circuit boards are sealed with silicon, though you are right the screw terminals are not protected from rain. I'm not sure how or if I will figure out a way to seal every thing. I just want it done to the point that I CAN RIDE IT! I like my HD Sportster, but my little 350 is such a blast! I miss her!

kslrr · « **Reply #16 on:** March 17, 2007, 08:52:23 AM »

Every so often I try to start it up, just to keep the fluids flowing, but lately it just won't start! I know that I have carb trouble, one overflows. So I pulled the plugs and verified the sparks. Good sparks! I mixed in some Lucas Oil Top End Lube/Gas Treatment into the tank thinking that if I got it started the carbs might be cleaned a bit and put some of the Lucas stuff in each cylindar to pre-lube the pistons. That was fun

. When I hit the starter, lube came shooting out of the #1 plug hole, all over my pants, all over the drive way. I tell you, for a guy that has an IQ of 138, I do some real stupid things some times

. I think now is the time to take apart the petcock.

bill440cars · « **Reply #17 on:** March 17, 2007, 10:50:53 AM »

Whoa! I'd like to see someone try to make a "Skeleton Key" for that one!!

Or try to "Hot Wire" it!

Ha!Ha!

Later on, Bill

KB02 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 18, 2007, 06:38:27 AM »

Quote from: kslrr on March 16, 2007, 11:01:30 AM

Here is a close up of the 'key' It is a circuit board with wires that create a 'code' that enables logic gates (I know, sounds like TRON ) on the main enable board which is plugged into the 'bus'. On top are 3 LED's. The RED indicates unswitched 12v available (I think, it has been awhile ), the YELLOW indicates that the switched 12v has been enabled by the 'key'. Pressing the small white button enables the ignition power, indicated by GREEN. The circuit is latched as long as the 'key' is in the slot. The whole thing is incased in epoxy and attached to the Bud keychain to complete the device. There are a few bugs in the main board that I have yet to trouble shoot. $:-\$

That is just F***ing INGENIOUS!!!!!

I love it!

Stu400 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 18, 2007, 07:17:52 AM »

Isnt it amazing how all of our projects differ? some of us insist on originality, some of us try to re-create racers, some of us just see the bike as a mode of transport. When I first saw this my first reaction was "thats hideous" and secondly "why", but now I understand. Nearly all our machines are our hobbies and like we decorate a room in a house differently we interpret our bikes differently.

Also trying to work out the wiring loom on my project with its dirty, broken mass of wires. those cables seem a great idea

Keep up the good work fella

kslrr · « **Reply #20 on:** March 18, 2007, 09:19:00 AM »

Thanks Stu. Thanks also for your comments and feedback. I welcome all feedback and I know that what I do may not be everybody's cup-of-tea but that is what makes this forum great! No mater what we do with or SOHC-4's (short of neglect) we are all family. I guess you could say that my bike is as unique as Spikybike's, though not the work of art his is. His metal work and attention to details is awesome!

Here is a pic of the 'cyclebus' ribbon cable going up the frame backbone. The other cable harnesses contain unswitched, switched and ignition cables. Also what you see in this pic and the next, is mocking up of my fresh air intake system.

TwoTired · « **Reply #21 on:** March 18, 2007, 03:17:45 PM »

Have you worked out a power budget for your bike?
According to my old Clymer, your alternator makes 156Watts @ 5000 RPM on a good day.
How many extra headlights are you planning to add? Do you know your bikes present current draw?

A caution about your carb inlet mods.
You appear to be making a Ram air scoop(s). In theory, this pressurizes the carb throat to pack more cold air into the engine as vehicle speeds go up. Good theory. However, in this carb design the throat pressure differential (carb bore to surrounding atmospheric) determines the flow rate through the fuel jets, and therefore the mixture ratio. If you actually achieve carb throat pressurization with vehicle speed, the mixture will go very lean with the risk of detonation and holed pistons. If you want this scheme to work you will also have to pressurize all the carb bowl vents and the fuel tank as well, from the same ram air pressure near the carb throat entry point.

You would also do well to have a common plenum for the carbs so all carbs see the same ram air pressure unaffected by crosswind components or any turbulence for components located in the airsteam path ahead of the ram air scoops. Otherwise, some cylinders may go lean while others become rich, also leading to scorched pistons.

Have fun with your projects!

Cheers,

kslrr · « **Reply #22 on:** March 18, 2007, 04:32:14 PM »

Very good points TT.
As far as the power goes, I plan on having no more than 2 lights on at time. 1 light for around town, a 2nd lights for the open road. They are 35w each.

I had thought about a common air plenum for the carbs, not sure how to do that yet, but only gave a little thought to what the pressure would do to the overall fuel metering system. My original thought was, 'let's see what happens', but if that means holed pistons, it would be better to make this simply a cold fresh air intake with minimal increase in pressure.

Thanks for the thoughts, I am taking them seriously.

kslrr · « **Reply #23 on:** March 29, 2007, 10:51:05 AM »

Well, I am just about to finish up the carb rebuild. What a mess. This bike sat for 12 years while I was married to my 1st wife and I never drained the float bowls

The floats would not move, the jets were completely plugged and I had to use a nail punch and visegrips to pull out the float pivit pins. This has been a 5 day project (a few hours each day) but they are now close to going back on the engine! I used Keyster rebuild kits I got off of Ebay, plenty of carb cleaner soking time, lots of spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Now I am down to polishing the tops and replacing the last 2 bolts with black socket cap screws. I will ride my other bike down to Lowe's right now to get me some cap screws.

kslrr · « **Reply #24 on:** March 29, 2007, 08:21:22 PM »

It runs!!!

. I got the carbs back on and she started after just a few kicks and the choke. Music to my ears. She runs great with only a bench sync. I can just imagine how she will run when I do a true sync and finish the air intake system.

I did discover that the alternator puts out 17+ volts when wired for full charge (I have yet to make a regulator) evidence by the burned out main board pictured below (it actually caught fire!). I put the load resister back in place for low charge and reconfigured some switches so that I could enable the power without the main board in order to take it for a ride up and down the street!

News:

Author Topic: Projects, gotta love 'em! (Read 5017 times)