The advancer used on the CB500/550 could not have been simpler, the more when one remembers the advancers we used to have in cars, which worked partly with centrifugal force and partly with vacuum (better: underpressure). Maybe some of you have at least once overlooked a vacuum tube that had come loose, like I have.
Advancer is actually a misleading term.
Retarder would have been better, because - believe it or not - the thing is only there to facilitate easier starting. If we wouldn't need a
retarded timing for starting, we could run our bikes always at an ideal advanced timing, 30
o BTDC. Have a look at the advancer below. The yellow mark indicates 5
o BTDC. Easy starting is then guaranteed. But my bike starts just as easy at 8
o BTDC. So no worry if it isn't spot on 5
o BTDC. Concentrate on a correct timing at full advance of around 30
o instead, say from 2800 RPM on. Full advance is indicated by the two marks, one blue, one green. They are 3
o apart and I'll come to that next.
I've always used genuine Honda parts and on my bike, they are by TEC (TOYO), but things work just the same with Hitachi parts.
Out of curiosity I once experimented with setting things exactly spot on and then vary the dwell.
With timing static set at exactly 5
o and a dwell of exactly 49
o (= 0,3mm gap), full advance would be at the
first full advance (blue in the pic) mark, 28,5
o. When I changed the dwell to 46
o (= 0,4mm gap) full advance would be at the
second full advance (green in the pic) mark, 31,5
o. I am sorry to say I have not completed the experiment by repeating this for 2+3. I was quite impressed by the accuracy of Honda parts and even more when I choose the middle: a dwell of 47,5
o (= 0,35mm gap) which not only resulted in a full advance right between the two full advance marks 30
o but also, as a bonus, having all components in the middle of their adjustment range. When I helped a friend who had a Daiichi plate and breakers, I did
not arrive at having components in the middle of their adjustment range, when I choose the middle. I'm not saying Daiichi parts are therefore bad, they're are just different. In the past I have suggested that Daiichi in the US
must be Chinese imitations of the Daiichi sets we have in Europe which were made in Japan. I know quite some riders here, that have satisfactorily results with them. As said: the US market is another story.
Now I always have my ignition 2-3
o more advanced which results in a better throttle respons (driveability) but that's up to anyone's liking and it could also be fuel related.
Now to those little springs in the advancer. I have two CB500/550 advancers and both still have their original springs. I have no complaints and in spite of their long service, there is no need to cut any coils. Why would I do that, if RPM drops immediately to a steady idle the very moment I close the throttle? I have NO experience with CB750 advancer springs and it could be that on those models cutting a coil can be a remedy. I have no experience with CB750s. Mine (CB500) work fine. If for some reason a CB500/550 owner experiences a somewhat fluttering idle and he suspects sloppy springs, I'd advice him
not to
cut a coil but tweak the ultimate coil around the mount a bit. A friend who owns a CB500 had success with that. Simple and no costs involved.
When you want to order new springs, realise that the Hitachi and Toyo springs differed in length. (pic courtesy Marco). Some very, very experienced British mechanics, well trained and having worked many years in workshops (I mention this, before we forget
) concluded that
thus the TOYO and the Hitachi advancers
must have a different advance curve. That conclusion is wrong. Both Hitachi and TOYO, although different in design, will provide the same advance curve.
I always advice to begin simple with a feeler gauge when setting the breakerpoints gap. If you have a dwellmeter, I'd use it. Then you can set the breakerpoints dynamically and also check the dwell remains constant and does not wander when RPM changes. Checking the
timing is best done using a strobe, but, I would not attempt to
adjust the timing dynamically. Plates will move about and it can become a frustrating experience. Better is: adjust timing, then check at full advance. Then stop the engine and make the needed adjustment, start engine again and check again at full advance. You may have to stop the engine again for a further adjustment. This procedure works best. Just accept the timing @ idle it will result in.
I have stressed many times that (re)setting the gaps comes first, because it is there, where the timing begins to deviate from the ideal. As a matter of fact: usually just resetting the gaps (dwell) is the only thing you have to do, to arrive at the correct timing again. Makes sense, the plates are well fastened and don't wander. At least not that I seen.
Last remark: genuine breakerpoints maybe expensive, but they live very, very long indeed. In the 110.000km I have rode my bike, I cannot remember that I have renewed them more than just once. Wear by pitting occurs most at idle.