Topic: Don's 81 GS1100e happy Suzuki.

[Leino]

No, I'm neck deep in projects, as much as it sounds like fun it would lead to a chain reaction of rebuilding a crank and cams and head work etc. Somebody should go there though.

You could check it out and if it's legit,buy it for a time later in your ownership of the bike..
I did all the mods you mentioned on an 83' I owned,only I bored the stock jugs for 1170 Wisecos.
The bike had PLENTY for the street,plus when it got Fully warmed-up,it would be hard to start,especially in traffic.
I can see that a 1325cc top-end like that would be better for pure strip use.

What kinda starter motor and ground cables did you use?
No issues with a 1327 engine turning over, 11,7:1 compression, stock type battery and starter motor.
25mm2 cables.

[grcamna2]

No, I'm neck deep in projects, as much as it sounds like fun it would lead to a chain reaction of rebuilding a crank and cams and head work etc. Somebody should go there though.

You could check it out and if it's legit,buy it for a time later in your ownership of the bike..
I did all the mods you mentioned on an 83' I owned,only I bored the stock jugs for 1170 Wisecos.
The bike had PLENTY for the street,plus when it got Fully warmed-up,it would be hard to start,especially in traffic.
I can see that a 1325cc top-end like that would be better for pure strip use.

What kinda starter motor and ground cables did you use?
No issues with a 1327 engine turning over, 11,7:1 compression, stock type battery and starter motor.
25mm2 cables.

Stock starter motor,although the engine was still fresh/tight;it did get much better after a few 1000 miles.

[Leino]

I meant the starter motor cable and ground cable. Stock stuff is not enough with added compression at least now they are 40+ years old.

[Don R]

I meant the starter motor cable and ground cable. Stock stuff is not enough with added compression at least now they are 40+ years old.

I noticed how small the ground cable is, I added another one from the battery to the frame. I see that the starter cable bolts on.
  A way to crimp the battery cable ends on is with a nut splitter tool, they tell me it works great. I have some lightweight battery cable from Summit racing, I believe it is strands of aluminum plated with copper. hmmm.

[grcamna2]

I meant the starter motor cable and ground cable. Stock stuff is not enough with added compression at least now they are 40+ years old.

Ok,I see what you're saying.

[Don R]

 I got the #120 jets installed, I used the prime position on the petcock for the first time to re-fill the carbs. That thing turns hard. It's a K&L I think, made in Japan.
 I may get in a short ride but it's 48F* and windy. Maybe not.

[grcamna2]

I got the #120 jets installed, I used the prime position on the petcock for the first time to re-fill the carbs. That thing turns hard. It's a K&L I think, made in Japan.
 I may get in a short ride but it's 48F* and windy. Maybe not.

The temps and moist wind are the same here Don.    C'mon Spring !

Spray some WD40/Triflow into the fuel valve lever;it'll help a little.

[Leino]

We had a couple of warm(ish) days but it snowed again. Next week looks promising.
Maybe I could get the TesticLe Roaster out for a spin.

[Don R]

 I did a 48*F test ride, the a/f ratio seemed better, 13-1 give or take in town, that's better, cruising at 70 it was still around 12-1 going west but when I turned around and went into the wind (big difference) it changed to around 13-1. Wide open it's still 10-1 fat and not really happy.
  Now I'm suspicious of the pod filters that have internal baffles made by me. They worked great on the 836 but on the 1100 I'm not so sure. My next move is to remove the pod baffles or try velocity stacks. Charging is good, 14.5 volts running 12.7 off. My Polaris V-Reg wiring harness should get here Monday.

[grcamna2]

I did a 48*F test ride, the a/f ratio seemed better, 13-1 give or take in town, that's better, cruising at 70 it was still around 12-1 going west but when I turned around and went into the wind (big difference) it changed to around 13-1. Wide open it's still 10-1 fat and not really happy.
  Now I'm suspicious of the pod filters that have internal baffles made by me. They worked great on the 836 but on the 1100 I'm not so sure. My next move is to remove the pod baffles or try velocity stacks. Charging is good, 14.5 volts running 12.7 off. My Polaris V-Reg wiring harness should get here Monday.

I'm guessing removing the pod filter baffles you installed,then ride it at 65 + degrees..

[Don R]

  I removed the baffles, they previously had passed the shop vac test, I could put a baffled pod over my 2 1/2" shop vac hose and could not hear the motor slow down but that's not very scientific.
  65* isn't expected anytime soon but warmer equals less dense air which will make more fuel for air.
 That's the beauty of a carb, less air density pulls less fuel from the venturi. More air = more fuel. I'm not having luck finding Suzuki tuning specs for the 29's, there are lots of posts on the KZ's and Honda's using 29's which oddly take the same tune-up. The suzy needs a different slide which I'm not sure of which one.

[RAFster122s]

Don, are you running CR29s or a Mikuni setup? Kelly has Mikunis on his if I recall correctly and VM34s maybe. Mike R has dealt with big Suzy's hasn't he? I know he has experience with the CR carbs. Maybe reach out to Mike and see if he can provide some feedback on the thread.

Was looking at history from last year's weather for this week, last year this coming
 Wednesday and Thursday the high temps were respectively where I live were 97F and 98F.
This Wednesday and Thursday we expected to see 84 and 93F, historically it has been an average of 80 and 81 respectively. Next month our daily highs will be consistently in the 90s. So, it is definitely riding weather here with lots more bikes showing up on the roads, many guys ride year round but 65 to 70 on the freeway in 40F in the morning is below freezing wind chills. I'm out in the desert and the washes the cold air sinks into and ai cross the Tucson Mountains in Corazon Pass which isn't too high but it gives a great view of Oro Valley and miracle and the NW face of the Catalina Mountains and if the ski slope is open we can see the top 1/4 to 1/3 of Mt Lemmon ski slopes. They are more westerly facing...they had more snow the past few days...the road to Mt Lemmon reopened to vehicles with 4wd and chains. The tops of the highest peaks surrounding Tucson with 7000 ft and above are snow covered. Today it was 74f.  June brings regular 100F temps, we bet on the first day to reach 100, last year it was in April!

Glad you are getting it sorted or making some progress.

I know from studying velocity stack design and use as I was looking to put a set on the dual carbs of a 2.0L car motor but wanted filtration as well, so I was looking to see what I would need to do.  You need a 1/2 of a sphere from the base of the carb mounting face and the velocity stack base equal  to at LEAST the length of the velocity stack beyond the throat opening if the bell. That determines the minimum area you need to have free of obstructions around the velocity stack ideally.  That is why the filtration boxes for an enclosure for velocity stacks that work well are very generous around each velocity stack. The air is being pulled from around the velocity stack and the shape of the bell opening and it's shape as it comes back to the body of the trumpet of the spack on properly designed stacks is a bulging radius on that opening that tapers back into the trumpet to whatever thickness the stack has...

So, your pods likely are interfering some with that ideal, it is common to see that...
Piper cross in the UK has integrated stub stacks in at least on of their multiple carb designs and the filter material is full stack length, not stub stack length away from the velocity stack openings. The media is a molded foam media in a oval dome allowing air to be pulled from the sides and front around the carbs and velocity stacks. We just don't have the luxury on most bikes of having that much free air space around our carbs (behind them...)

[Don R]

 These are Mikuni 29 smoothbores, same as my RC 836 Honda. They're likely more suited to a 1000 or smaller engine.
  The reason I put the plastic baffles in my pods is that they allegedly smooth out the airflow near the inlets to the air bleeds and carb entry points. Air can still flow from behind the baffles but has to go behind the baffle and then turn towards the carb. 
 I'll test some more but if I really fall in love with the bike I'll probably just buy some 34 Mikuni flat slides, this is more of a learning exercise for now.
 As I get more comfortable on it I'm feeling a notch in the neck bearing. Another thing for my list.

[grcamna2]

Don,the lower steering bearing/outer race is available from Suzuki;the upper/top steering stem bearing(pt.#09265-25008)isn't available through Suzuki,but may be available through a dealer locator.
I like the Made in Japan quality of these stock(better quality then All Balls)tapered roller bearings;you may be able to clean/grease them back up..
I just purchased both these same ones for my bike off Ebay,found the top one also.
My 81' GS450 had water get down into those bearings and if the bike spent time outside then it may have rusted the steering bearings,especially if the top rubber dust seal(still avail. for yours)is missing like mine.

[Kelly E]

We have Mikuni RS36 carbs on the 80' and the stock carbs on the 81'. Both bikes are running K&N pods. The 80' also has a Delkevik exhaust and runs great. We are still getting the 81' sorted out and it needs a Delkevik because the stock exhaust is tearing itself apart.

[seanbarney41]

Yeah Don, just some more info to help you make comparisons...My 82 gs1100 has the stock carbs (Mikuni BS34's?) and the good old big oval K&N's.  Carburetion is crisp, clean and great!...better than any bike I have ever ridden with pods...never had any reason to touch them tuning wise.  I have assumed that a P.O. must have installed a Dynojet kit of some kind.  So, don't rule out the stockers if you come across a deal on them.  Also, pretty sure that Dynojet still offers the kit for these.

[Leino]

Like I said before, both the 34's from earlier GS's and even better the later model 36's... must be worlds easiest and best working CV carbs for a street ridden bike.

[Tom R]

If your looking at stock Mikunis as an alternative to the RS carbs; There is a difference between the 8V and 16V bs34s. The 16v carbs have 4 air jets and work nicely with pods. Same for gs1150 bs36 carbs.
I put a set of bs36’s on mine with pods as a worthwhile upgrade. Only hiccup was an off idle stumble which was cured by putting the air jets from the bs34 carbs into the bs36’s.

[Don R]

 I got the ebay pre-made harness for the Polaris V Reg, my V twin shop owner buddy has the same ones in stock for the Indian Motorcycles. I just need to cut off the plug from the 3 yellow wires and add bullet connectors. Both cables have plastic sheathing and are able to route separately.
 The cheap stock re-pro that I ordered before learning about the Polaris V-Reg is working perfectly but I'm going to go ahead and put this one on it.

[grcamna2]

I got the ebay pre-made harness for the Polaris V Reg, my V twin shop owner buddy has the same ones in stock for the Indian Motorcycles. I just need to cut off the plug from the 3 yellow wires and add bullet connectors. Both cables have plastic sheathing and are able to route separately.
 The cheap stock re-pro that I ordered before learning about the Polaris V-Reg is working perfectly but I'm going to go ahead and put this one on it.

SH775 ?

[Don R]

 Yes, SH775.

[grcamna2]

I got the ebay pre-made harness for the Polaris V Reg, my V twin shop owner buddy has the same ones in stock for the Indian Motorcycles. I just need to cut off the plug from the 3 yellow wires and add bullet connectors. Both cables have plastic sheathing and are able to route separately.
 The cheap stock re-pro that I ordered before learning about the Polaris V-Reg is working perfectly but I'm going to go ahead and put this one on it.

Don,what did your shop owner friend say about the SH775 ?

just to mention,I was glad to hook up mine with the 3 stator wires directly to the 3 wire plug(grey plastic)and not worry whether the colors were correct:3 to 3  .
Do you know which connections on the SH775 are + and - on your black plastic two wire plug? if not,I can send a picture.

[Don R]

 He just said they come on some Indian motorcycles, work great and he has one in stock. I could have gotten mine there but asked after I had one ordered. My harness has two plugs that fit the sh775, one with 3 yellow wires and one with two colored black and red with ring connectors for the battery and a 3 terminal plug on the free end that doesn't match the Suzuki. It probably fits Indian and/or Polaris.

[grcamna2]

He just said they come on some Indian motorcycles, work great and he has one in stock. I could have gotten mine there but asked after I had one ordered. My harness has two plugs that fit the sh775, one with 3 yellow wires and one with two colored black and red with ring connectors for the battery and a 3 terminal plug on the free end that doesn't match the Suzuki. It probably fits Indian and/or Polaris.

Don,does the two terminal(black plastic) + and - port on your SH775 have the polarity marked between + & - ?  Like on the two leads that come out of that plug ?

[Don R]

 To be honest I plugged it in and didn't check. I'm assuming the red and black wires are color coded correctly. I'll go look.