Topic: Don's 81 GS1100e happy Suzuki.

[grcamna2]

Don,take a look at the thread here for 'K1 late model-Winton kit' and you'll see what just happened to his high performance CB750 engine in that bike. 
The power of these engines will eventually loosen-up the rotor.

[Don R]

 I believe you, my late cb750 mentor twisted the end off of the crank in his drag bike.
 I now own most of that bike, it's an 1124cc stroker, 2 of the 72mm sleeves are sitting below the deck and a piston is scored.

[Kelly E]

Here you go Don, right out of the book. 

[Don R]

  Thanks for taking time to look that up Kelly.
  I ordered a motion pro puller, 35x1.5 mm the seller of the brand X one offered me an 80% refund and I keep the tool. I did that. They said they will amend their chart accordingly, I suspect it will loose a hundred pages or so.

[grcamna2]

Here you go Don, right out of the book. 

I personally like to use an air impact wrench on the rotor tighten-down,rather than a hand torque wrench to the factory spec that's in the book;I feel good to give 'that' fastener a bit more,along with Loctite on the taper,imo.   My preference.
Do the starter clutch first to get that 100%,done deal.

[Don R]

 I got some new loctite, it's orange, it can still be removed but it's between red and blue in strength.
 To be honest, the multi piece crank makes me a little nervous about rattling on the end of it. Twisting is likely as hard.
  I saw a guy beat a flywheel off of a high dollar and borrowed Jr. Dragster engine once. The engine expired soon after, I probably have PTSD from that.
   Both the owner of the engine and the guy that borrowed/ ruined it are both gone now, the two guys that I likely learned more about drag racing from than I figured out on my own. The one guy was so good at bracket and index racing that he didn't do the normal things with the usual equipment just to keep it interesting.

[grcamna2]

I got some new loctite, it's orange, it can still be removed but it's between red and blue in strength.
 To be honest, the multi piece crank makes me a little nervous about rattling on the end of it. Twisting is likely as hard.
  I saw a guy beat a flywheel off of a high dollar and borrowed Jr. Dragster engine once. The engine expired soon after, I probably have PTSD from that.
   Both the owner of the engine and the guy that borrowed/ ruined it are both gone now, the two guys that I likely learned more about drag racing from than I figured out on my own. The one guy was so good at bracket and index racing that he didn't do the normal things with the usual equipment just to keep it interesting.

They make orange Loctite now? 
I know what you mean with sitting there rattling an air wrench for 5-10 seconds.. too much.
The wet Loctite on the taper And on the threads of the hold-down nut will allow it to tighten down fast w/o sitting there long:zap it down w/ one quick full blast of the air wrench..Done.
I like to get everything nice and clean/prep before using Loctite;when it's assembled,I wait 24hrs. before running it.

Edit: First lapping the rotor to the shaft using fine lapping compound will help alot 

[Don R]

 I got the new flywheel puller now, it's a matter of time before I get to it. This week is busy with grandkids sports. My car show business is over until the august one comes.

[Leino]

There are a few tricks when installing the flywheel if you have the small taper version?
Been playing around with these for close to two decades now and learned the hard way.

[grcamna2]

There are a few tricks when installing the flywheel if you have the small taper version?
Been playing around with these for close to two decades now and learned the hard way.

Hi Leino,please share 

[grcamna2]

Don,I know of an upgrade to your fusebox;the 82' 1100 came stock with blade fuses.
I just viewed a complete set of electrics on ebay w/ blade fusebox from an 82' 1100G which includes everything including the CDi box(which won't work on your 1100E,but all the other components fit)for $38 from Monkey Claw.

[Don R]

 I sold Mr. C  5 outdoor stored beat on (literally) and partially parted out cb750's, I had regrets later when they cut up the titled frames and split up rods and caps, cam towers and caps and even case halves. But I needed them gone since I was out of space.
 Since then, I've bought a lot of needed parts from them to help put good bikes back together.

[Don R]

 I got the motion pro flywheel puller it was the one that I recognized the name of. I was looking for tips on the job and a guy on youtube made a video that showed his ebay puller. It lost its threads on the flywheel side but he didn't want to name names.
 I believe I'll go slow taking mine off. L0L! 

[grcamna2]

I got the motion pro flywheel puller it was the one that I recognized the name of. I was looking for tips on the job and a guy on youtube made a video that showed his ebay puller. It lost its threads on the flywheel side but he didn't want to name names.
 I believe I'll go slow taking mine off. L0L!

Don,use some good Moly grease on the puller screw threads and point!
Draw it up good and snug with the impact:intermittently.. until it's tight.
One nice,square shot on the end of the puller bolt w/ a 24oz hammer and it should pop-loose.

[Leino]

There are a few tricks when installing the flywheel if you have the small taper version?
Been playing around with these for close to two decades now and learned the hard way.

Hi Leino,please share 

Ok, some of these tips I learned from a now gone but not forgotten Pro Stock mechanic who really knew his way around Suzuki's and Kawasaki's of the roller bearing era.

Use 12.9 bolts on the starter clutch and loctite them.
Before you start lapping the tapers, make sure they are a good pair. Permanent marker helps.
If they are a decent pair, start lapping. If not, they are not gonna hold together what ever you do, at least on a high performance engine.
After lapping, clean everything really well, make sure you have a good pair of gloves close, warm the flywheel taper (small taper, NOT THE LATER MODEL BIG ONE!!!) to 80 celcius, throw it in and tighten the nut with a power wrench. Air or electric which ever you prefer, just tighten the damn thing Make sure your starter clutch gear is still turning loosely and has some slack in it. If you end up lapping the tapers a lot, it will sit deeper and if that happens you must take some stuff off the bronze spacer and reinstall.
Let it cool, remove the nut, use loctite and retighten. I usually let it sit for a couple of hours before doing this.

I have never ever used anything between the tapers and to my believe it is better to have good contact between the two surfaces and NOT to fill it with a chemical of any kind. Friction is the key here, not glue.

I hope I didn't forget anything.

Feel free to ask if my writing didn't make sense 

[grcamna2]

This clears-up some questions I had Leino.

[Leino]

This clears-up some questions I had Leino.

Good.

[grcamna2]

Two other questions:how do you heat the later model larger flywheel taper ?

Question two:how much torque should be used with a 1/2" air impact wrench to really tighten-down on the flywheel ?

[grcamna2]

This clears-up some questions I had Leino.

Good.

Did you notice my last two questions to you?
I posted them in the early hours this morning.

[Don R]

 I just bought a stock 82 tool kit. I hope the wrenches are nearly the same. I do have the rubber hold down strap in the tail. That area was a mystery to me at first, now I kinda get it.
 While riding yesterday without the O2 sensor aboard I found the dead spot in the carbs, likely the low flow/rich area due to the 1.5 slides. Below or above that throttle opening it's a beast. 
 I'm hesitant to buy the mikuni's right now, I'm close to a large automotive purchase. New manufactured 1969 firebird body.

 I read that as no heat on the large taper and for my info, how would you know torque on an impact wrench. Count the ugga-uggas? My 3/8" milwaukee battery impact would probably do the job but I could put a strap wrench on the flywheel for a holdback and use a real torque wrench.

[grcamna2]

I just bought a stock 82 tool kit. I hope the wrenches are nearly the same. I do have the rubber hold down strap in the tail. That area was a mystery to me at first, now I kinda get it.
 While riding yesterday without the O2 sensor aboard I found the dead spot in the carbs, likely the low flow/rich area due to the 1.5 slides. Below or above that throttle opening it's a beast. 
 I'm hesitant to buy the mikuni's right now, I'm close to a large automotive purchase. New manufactured 1969 firebird body.

 I read that as no heat on the large taper and for my info, how would you know torque on an impact wrench. Count the ugga-uggas? My 3/8" milwaukee battery impact would probably do the job but I could put a strap wrench on the flywheel for a holdback and use a real torque wrench.

I hope to hear back from member Leino,to hear his ideas about both these questions.
Glad to hear you found a complete? toolkit,for an 82'.
I know it's got a different/better(center-axle)front-end w/ adjustable rebound damping on the 82'/83',although I don't like the hyd. anti-dives & air fork ports(braze the holes closed..) painted black. I'm not sure if the toolkit contains anything different for the front axle?

Does your 81' EX model have adjustable rebound damping on the OEM Suzuki rear shocks ?

[Don R]

 I don't know the exact tool list but it appeared pretty complete, except maybe a plastic screwdriver handle. It has the plug socket, 17 down to 8mm open end and two larger box end wrenches. It had the bag, slip over handle extension that also makes the screwdriver handle. Even the cable to hang the swingarm from while you do whatever needs the wheel supported.
  It might also need a straight blade screwdriver bit, but I have spare ones from my Honda collection.  $33 from Mr C. (Monkeyclaw).

[Leino]

This clears-up some questions I had Leino.

Good.

Did you notice my last two questions to you?
I posted them in the early hours this morning.

Hi. Track day yesterday. I'll answer from a computer after work today.

[Leino]

Big late model taper, DON'T use heat. I've had to have one machined out because someone did it.
Use common sense when using power tools, the nut won't keep on turning unless you use a huge tool, couple of seconds in my case usually.

[Don R]

 Thanks again Leino for the input.
  My ignition switch arrived early today, well wrapped in multiple layers of protection however it's cracked through the plastic off/on/lock cover. If I can't use the old one I'll have a crack to look at every time I use my $180 switch. I sent a message to the seller.
 I see the switch on the bike has a metal cover that may swap onto this one. The key didn't accidentally work. I thought I might try to swap the lock cylinders but there are three tiny roll pins holding it on that would be a treat to remove.