Topic: Don's 81 GS1100e Suzuki, test cycles.

[grcamna2]

I should get my new neck bearings today, I'm going to set up a tool and parts table in the shop and try to do this in a professional way as in take my time and get it right.
 I'm going to try to avoid a coulda/shoulda/woulda situation and get a few jobs done at the same time.

I like that 

[Don R]

 Well, it came apart OK, I put it under the chain hoist, sat it on the center stand and slid jack stands under the front frame. I removed the gauge pod because I'm changing it to one with no cracks in the lens and a working trip set odometer.
 I don't see a problem with the old bearings but the front end had a bad notch straight ahead so they get changed anyway. My old blue/green 750 had bad tapered bearings, it was unpleasant to ride before I swapped them out. This one rode OK but not as sweet as my gl1000 so I thought it needed improvement.
 Next up, removing the old bottom bearing and races.

[Don R]

 I used an angled pry bar/chisel to pop out the races and a straight chisel to remove the lower bearing. Not so difficult at all. After I move snow today I'll start re-assembly.

[grcamna2]

I used an angled pry bar/chisel to pop out the races and a straight chisel to remove the lower bearing. Not so difficult at all. After I move snow today I'll start re-assembly.

Don,did you get an OEM Suzuki lower bearing?
I remember somewhere where you said you could only find one OEM bearing.
The lower one with the seal works best being OEM,rather than aftermarket:for the proper fit/spacing,etc.

[BenelliSEI]

Don… I’m sure you know this trick……. I always freeze the races and warm the head stock. The new ones often almost drop in place with the temp diff. Good luck.

[Don R]

Don… I’m sure you know this trick……. I always freeze the races and warm the head stock. The new ones often almost drop in place with the temp diff. Good luck.

 I did do that, the lower still put up a fight, I used a washer stack and a bolt to draw it in straight. I kept it in a box of the same snow it was in outside until I was ready to rock it in.
  No, I did not buy one real bearing and take one fake bearing from a set, they are both fake. All Balls, China's best. I'm 73, I won't wear them out.

[grcamna2]

Don… I’m sure you know this trick……. I always freeze the races and warm the head stock. The new ones often almost drop in place with the temp diff. Good luck.

 I did do that, the lower still put up a fight, I used a washer stack and a bolt to draw it in straight. I kept it in a box of the same snow it was in outside until I was ready to rock it in.
  No, I did not buy one real bearing and take one fake bearing from a set, they are both fake. All Balls, China's best. I'm 73, I won't wear them out.

I remember now.

[Don R]

 It's going back together, I noticed the spanner wrench for the neck bearing wasn't in the tool bag that I bought. One Honda wrench is too big, one is too small. When I tightened the top nut, it seemed to bind things up a little. I loosened everything back up and will try again after I move snow. 

[grcamna2]

It's going back together, I noticed the spanner wrench for the neck bearing wasn't in the tool bag that I bought. One Honda wrench is too big, one is too small. When I tightened the top nut, it seemed to bind things up a little. I loosened everything back up and will try again after I move snow.

I myself noticed a few times that it takes a couple good hits from below with a correct size bearing/seal driver to be sure the lower outer race is completely seated inside the frame;I found I needed to work harder to adjust the bearings if I didn't 'seat' the lower race.
I prefer borrowing/using a threaded rod-type tool with stepped-round collars on it to tighten both the races(at the same time)equally all the way down until seated,but I don't own one of those tools.

I personally tighten a completely set-up pair of triples with fresh tapered bearings by only installing just both fork legs(w/o wheel,handlebars,axle and fender,etc.)and using the weight of them to see how far I can tighten the spanner nut by judging how the forks fall from center,to both sides,until it feels just right.
I usually check adjustment again after 1000 miles.

[Don R]

 I did most of what's listed above. I have bearing and seal drivers, it still took a little help from my lead head hammer.
  It took a couple tries to get the wiring and cables fed back through where I wanted them. The wiring needed a little tightening of the female side of the connectors, they all got a polish job and a dose of contact cleaner. All of the lighting is working, the replacement gauge pod is now on and it all works. The front wheel is back on, it still needs a final nut and bolt check and the headlight put back in.

[grcamna2]

I did most of what's listed above. I have bearing and seal drivers, it still took a little help from my lead head hammer.
  It took a couple tries to get the wiring and cables fed back through where I wanted them. The wiring needed a little tightening of the female side of the connectors, they all got a polish job and a dose of contact cleaner. All of the lighting is working, the replacement gauge pod is now on and it all works. The front wheel is back on, it still needs a final nut and bolt check and the headlight put back in.

Oh yeah  I understand about a big hammer(I 'should' use a 2lb. sledge to firmly seat the lower/fixed race)when hitting the Lower home;it makes a special,solid 'ring' when it's all the way in.   

[Don R]

   I flushed the brake fluid again, put the headlamp back in and turned down the accelerator pump, starting a little later and less stroke, it seemed like a good idea to put an Allen wrench and a screwdriver in an auxiliary tool pouch with a multi-tool, that way the carb can be adjusted on the road. It fits in the rear cowl beside the tool bag. The 1/16" Allen wrench got a piece of shrink tube so it's easier to hold on to.

   I also found a correct size spanner wrench for the neck adjuster in my stash of Honda stuff. It's in the tool bag now.

[grcamna2]

   I flushed the brake fluid again, put the headlamp back in and turned down the accelerator pump, starting a little later and less stroke, it seemed like a good idea to put an Allen wrench and a screwdriver in an auxiliary tool pouch with a multi-tool, that way the carb can be adjusted on the road. It fits in the rear cowl beside the tool bag. The 1/16" Allen wrench got a piece of shrink tube so it's easier to hold on to.

   I also found a correct size spanner wrench for the neck adjuster in my stash of Honda stuff. It's in the tool bag now.

When the warm weather allows,you'll be good to ride n' adjust,to dial it in.

[Don R]

  The rotor buttons clicked as the wheel turned. I watched a youtube video of a newer model GS1100 with EBC rotors that had the same click. His fix was different, however.     
  Niche sent me a snarky reply to my Email inquiry about it so I told them what I think. Then they asked for photos and a description of the issue and differences of the parts. They clearly just re-sell what someone makes for them.
  I found the issue, a tiny clearance issue between the inside of the rotor buttons and the pad friction material. I removed a few thousandths of pad material from the inside of the pad and now there is no clicking.
  I sent Brittany at Niche an offer to trade a full report with photos of my fix in trade for another rotor to use on the rear. If they send me one, I said I'd also check the rear for issues and make a photo report on that too. The ball is in your court Brittany. L0L!

 In the top pic you can barely see the rotor button location behind the pad backing plate. In the lower pic, notice the open cut-away portion of the rotor that will obviously pass between the lower part of the brake pads.
 

[grcamna2]

  The rotor buttons clicked as the wheel turned. I watched a youtube video of a newer model GS1100 with EBC rotors that had the same click. His fix was different, however.     
  Niche sent me a snarky reply to my Email inquiry about it so I told them what I think. Then they asked for photos and a description of the issue and differences of the parts. They clearly just re-sell what someone makes for them.
  I found the issue, a tiny clearance issue between the inside of the rotor buttons and the pad friction material. I removed a few thousandths of pad material from the inside of the pad and now there is no clicking.
  I sent Brittany at Niche an offer to trade a full report with photos of my fix in trade for another rotor to use on the rear. If they send me one, I said I'd also check the rear for issues and make a photo report on that too. The ball is in your court Brittany. L0L!

 In the top pic you can barely see the rotor button location behind the pad backing plate. In the lower pic, notice the open cut-away portion of the rotor that will obviously pass between the lower part of the brake pads.

good adjustment.
You'll know after you take it out for a ride.

[Don R]

 It's 40* so off I went on a test ride. The AFR didn't go lower than 14-1 I did not notice the accelerator pump richening it up but warm weather will tell that story. I did a few break-in stops on the rotors, no clicking or pulsing and they grab pretty well considering I was going easy on them.
 I took the street with reverse speed bumps where some foolish plumbers didn't backfill his sewer ditch properly. The forks worked perfectly, they seem to like the new 10W fork fluid. I was a couple oz short so I blended a dab of atf to get the correct amount.
 Oh, after the 2 mile ride the new to me odometer didn't re-set. L0L! Now I'll take the original one apart for possible repair.

[grcamna2]

It's 40* so off I went on a test ride. The AFR didn't go lower than 14-1 I did not notice the accelerator pump richening it up but warm weather will tell that story. I did a few break-in stops on the rotors, no clicking or pulsing and they grab pretty well considering I was going easy on them.
 I took the street with reverse speed bumps where some foolish plumbers didn't backfill his sewer ditch properly. The forks worked perfectly, they seem to like the new 10W fork fluid. I was a couple oz short so I blended a dab of atf to get the correct amount.
 Oh, after the 2 mile ride the new to me odometer didn't re-set. L0L! Now I'll take the original one apart for possible repair.

The push button on your odometer?
Good to hear the clicking gone. 

[Don R]

 Well, I rode again today, the odometer re-set but didn't record, then I pushed it again and now it's up to 5 miles.
  I drug it home 2 years ago today.

[BenelliSEI]

Well done, it looks great!

[Mark1976]

   It is a great looking bike, last of the UJM. The real question becomes, when do you buy another one? Motorcycles are like potato chips, hard to have just one. But you know that already...

[Don R]

 The 12 CB750's and 1 GL1000 say I have to sell two bikes before I can buy another one. I better get on it if I'm going to own a Vincent. L0L!
 I now own all of my brothers five 750's, he still has the 76 GL1000 and sidecar CB500 in his storage unit.

 

[Don R]

 I was e mailing with Niche about the clicking rotors. I told them they were fixed to my satisfaction, and I'd share my information and test rear rotor fitment if they wanted to send me another one.
 I'm not sure if they were angered or what, but today I got a full refund, so I guess I now owe them an explanation with photos. I believe they had someone copy an ebc rotor and ended up with the same issue that is shown on a windy urtnowski youtube video. That's just a guess.

 The odometer trip set is working fine now, I'm thinking it needs some use. The gas gauge is working better but I think I still need to service the sender.

 It seems Niche is agast, shocked, horrified and considering their liability that I modified something and told me not to use it until their engineering has determined the root of the problem. HA! They should have considered that before letting me get my hands on an unproven part lol. I should have bought the rear rotor before I told them.

[grcamna2]

I was e mailing with Niche about the clicking rotors. I told them they were fixed to my satisfaction, and I'd share my information and test rear rotor fitment if they wanted to send me another one.
 I'm not sure if they were angered or what, but today I got a full refund, so I guess I now owe them an explanation with photos. I believe they had someone copy an ebc rotor and ended up with the same issue that is shown on a windy urtnowski youtube video. That's just a guess.

 The odometer trip set is working fine now, I'm thinking it needs some use. The gas gauge is working better but I think I still need to service the sender.

 It seems Niche is agast, shocked, horrified and considering their liability that I modified something and told me not to use it until their engineering has determined the root of the problem. HA! They should have considered that before letting me get my hands on an unproven part lol. I should have bought the rear rotor before I told them.

Any more clicking from those floating buttons while underway ?

[Mark1976]

  I'm not sure if they were angered or what, but today I got a full refund, so I guess I now owe them an explanation with photos. I believe they had someone copy an ebc rotor and ended up with the same issue that is shown on a windy urtnowski youtube video.
 It seems Niche is agast, shocked, horrified and considering their liability that I modified something and told me not to use it until their engineering has determined the root of the problem. HA! They should have considered that before letting me get my hands on an unproven part lol. I should have bought the rear rotor before I told them.

Niche is on my list of 'do not use unless I have to', I've had several 'wtf' experiences with them as well, over minor issues. They're not at the 4into1 level of garbage but they do get easily PO'd... Windy's always got a good video or two to watch.