Topic: Re-lacing my K1 750's Wheels with New Spokes

[willbird]

Thanks again to everyone!  I appreciate the nice comments, kudos and suggestions!

As to the tires, I've always liked the Dunlops John, and ran them on my English bikes way back when, and more recently on my old 73 XLH that I recently resurrected.  But while the K70s are somewhat similar to the 30 year old Michelins I'm removing from my K1 750, I think I'll try a pair of the IRC GS-11s, that WideAwake suggested, this time around.  I do like the look of the GS-11s and the difference in price between the K70s and the GS-11s is enough to pay for new tubes and rim bands!

As to the final tuning of my new front wheel spokes, I have another question for you more experienced wheel building gurus.

Whether using a spoke torque wrench or playing the spokes like a harp to achieve an equal "ring"... all the guidance and tutorials I've seen recommend a final tightening of the spokes, after the wheel is trued, with a torque wrench or with a specified sequence of 1/4 turns on each nipple to achieve "equal tension" on all the spokes.  My question is this...

Once the truing procedure is completed, some spokes will be tighter than others.  So how then can a final tightening, whether with an equal number of additional tightening turns of each nipple or via torque wrench, ever really achieve the same tension in each spoke or, in the latter case with equal torque on each spoke, maintain the runout that was achieved during the truing procedure?

Some have said that I do tend to over-think such things but, as always, your thoughts, comments, and any explanations are appreciated!
ZT

I built exactly one bicycle wheel so far which I was proud to accomplish :-). From that perspective it is possible to get a wheel true without all of the spokes properly tensioned perhaps. One tutorial on lacing a MC wheel mentioned that you could actually true one up with only 12 spokes tight, would not work well in practice though ;-).

Bill

[ZTatZAU]

As you can tell, I'm still hemming and hawing between pulling the trigger on the Dunlop K70s or the IRCGS-11s for my K1 750...

... I like the Dunlop K70 tires and they come in sizes for the cb750. Lots of other tires are ultimately better performers, but I like the classic style.

As I said above, I've run Dunlops on quite a few of my bikes but since then I did a little more research on the K70s looking for additional reviews and opinions.  I came across several discussions that since K70 manufacturing was transferred to Indonesia, the K70s inflated profiles have more of a metric shape rather than the classic K70s and are a completely different tire.

Have you John, or anyone else here, noticed this difference in recently purchased K70s?

I am running some IRC gs11 on my K0 - they look period and perform quite well.

Thanks again for this review and recommendation WideAwake!  Can anyone else here provide any feedback on running the GS-11s on a CB750?

I'm also wondering about current opinions and preferences on using, and paying the extra price for heavy duty inner tubes... or not?

.... I just ordered a pair of 4:1 black rims and spokes today to build up a set for my K2.
Bill

Good luck on your black rims project, Bill.  Be sure to post some pix when you're finished!

... I built exactly one bicycle wheel so far which I was proud to accomplish :-). From that perspective it is possible to get a wheel true without all of the spokes properly tensioned perhaps. One tutorial on lacing a MC wheel mentioned that you could actually true one up with only 12 spokes tight, would not work well in practice though ;-).
Bill

I don't know what to say about this Bill, other than... interesting!

But now that my front wheel is trued up quite nicely, I plan on finishing up my final tightening with the procedure described by M 750K6 except that rather than hopping back and forth 180° across the wheel to maintain the adjusted runout, I'm going to use the procedure described in the last two minutes of this youtube video...

... which is also said to maintain the current runout adjustment.

Basically, the final tightening starts with a 1/4 turn (or less) on the first spoke from the valve stem and then the same amount of turn on every fourth spoke, by skipping two spokes each time, until arriving back to the valve stem.  The same process and amount of turn is then repeated all the way around the wheel, starting with the 2nd spoke and finally starting with the 3rd spoke from the valve stem at which time all the spokes will have been tightened the same amount without changing the setup.

As always, your thoughts and comments are appreciated!
ZT

[BenelliSEI]

ZT…… I use the Dunlops on bikes I want to keep looking “Vintage”. Never really put a lot of miles on them. They do look just right too me. I would be very tempted to try the GS-11’s for a “rider”. My regular ride is my K1 and I use a set of newer Kendas. They give a great ride, nice performance and are very well priced around here.

[M 750K6]

On my 850 Commando, I went for K81s (aka TT100s) over K70s, as meant to be a better road tyre with a similar look. They're OK. I chose Avon Road Riders for my CB750K6 and they are much better. More neutral lean and they warm up quicker. I'll go for them on the Commando next time. Both seem to wear at the same rate.

[willbird]

But now that my front wheel is trued up quite nicely, I plan on finishing up my final tightening with the procedure described by M 750K6 except that rather than hopping back and forth 180° across the wheel to maintain the adjusted runout, I'm going to use the procedure described in the last two minutes of this youtube video...

... which is also said to maintain the current runout adjustment.

Basically, the final tightening starts with a 1/4 turn (or less) on the first spoke from the valve stem and then the same amount of turn on every fourth spoke, by skipping two spokes each time, until arriving back to the valve stem.  The same process and amount of turn is then repeated all the way around the wheel, starting with the 2nd spoke and finally starting with the 3rd spoke from the valve stem at which time all the spokes will have been tightened the same amount without changing the setup.

As always, your thoughts and comments are appreciated!
ZT

I have some multi colored electrical tape, I am thinking about using that on spokes 1, 2, and 3. So I'd use Brown, Orange, Yellow in that order, and leave number 4 unmarked, maybe :-). It will be a bit until I get my hubs painted, still rounding up the proper paint and HVLP spray gun.