Topic: Project 2501 Mk. II - 1977 CB750F2

[Floshenbarnical]

Hi friends,

And so with the foul weather here we begin phase 2 of Project 2501. Project 2501 is a 1977 CB750F2 cafe racer build I inherited off some knuckle-headed chump in Rochester for next to nothing. Phase 1 involved making a rusty bundle of crap roadworthy and beautiful - it wasn't running properly, and looked like #$%*.

Mission accomplished.

Phase 2 involves many things I either didn't know to check, or things I would have loved to have done in Phase 1 but didn't get around to before the riding season started in earnest.

- Rebuild forks w/ progressive springs, seals, correct weight and quantity of fork oil
- Brace forks and install fender
- Replace front and rear wheel bearings and tidy up wheels
- Tapered steering bearings
- Inspect, refurbish front and rear brakes, probably replace pads
- Replace rubber brake lines with braided steel
- Replace front master cylinder
- Replace halogen headlight with LED
- Replace clutch perch with ProTaper one
- Install frame kit
- Completely strip, rust-treat, prime, and repaint frame
- Weld-in "tray" underneath seat frame to keep electronics dry from road spray
- Pull motor, crack bottom cases, reseal
- Refurbish cam chain tensioner
- Clean and repaint motor
- Install Sumpthing
- Fix leaking overflow tube in carb bowl #2 (yes, I blew bubbles through some hose)
- Make new fiberglass seat pan/ hump (I like the one I have enough, but it's a good practice rather than a finished unit)
- Make rear tire hugger from fiberglass
- New swingarm bushings
- Replace shocks
- Rewire entire bike. A lot of the wires are cheap, brittle, Harbor Fright nonsense, and so are the connectors. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to put in an m.unit.
- Install Hondaman's ignition
- New points, condensors, coils, spark plug caps
- New Delkevic exhaust headers (current ones won't clear the Sumpthing, but the DOHC ones are supposed to fit the motor AND clear the Sumpthing)

Made good progress last night. Organized tools in new garage space, threw out a bunch of garbage, put down cardboard under the bike, took off the exhaust, carbs, drained the oil, took off the oil tank, unplugged the motor and put the whole bike up on the lift for when my beefy friend feels better and can help me pull it.

Tonight I'm removing the wiring harness (more like wiring rats nest) and cutting the frame.

[BenelliSEI]

Now’s the time to get into it!

[Floshenbarnical]

Ain't that the truth!

Very much struggling to find a fork brace that will fit. Emailed the guy at Fast from the Past, hopefully he will have an answer.

[Floshenbarnical]

Left the wiring harness in place for now because I was tired and wanted to be less foggy when I took it off so I'd have a better understanding putting it back on.

Took off the front wheel, chain, rear wheel, shocks, and swingarm. Disassembled the caliper and inspected it. Immediately ordered rebuild kits for all the calipers, they were a bit grody. Ordered a new rear bearing retainer also, as it looks as if someone's been at it with a chisel.

Taking off the chain took the majority of the evening because the pins were so stiff it broke the chain breaker, twice. Had to MacGuyver it with a spare G-clamp I use for woodworking. So I ordered a new chain.

So now I just have to take the forks and wiring harness off and I'll have a (nearly) naked frame to start working on. Looking forwards to getting the frame cleaned up and well-protected.

The only thing that's causing me concern right now is that there are no chain guard brackets/ bolt holes for the chain guard on my swing arm at the front. It's the OEM swing arm. How is the chain guard attached to the F2? I know it attaches at the rear right next to the shock clevis mount.

[Honda Hansel]

Hi
The chain guard has a front mounting point and a rear point
both is 6 mm hex head bolts

For the wiring
If you are using stock harness
Get a new one they are cheap and fits good
I will not reuse a old harness on any restoration that I do

Do powder coat on the frame
Less over spray in the shop and its clean

Honda Hansel 
 

[Floshenbarnical]

Looks like I’ll be having a friend weld on a new bracket - a PO has taken this one off.

Perfect response post! Cheers!

We are now back to an almost entirely bare frame. Still got the top and bottom fork clamps on for now. Pulling motor tomorrow.

[Floshenbarnical]

Two thoughts:

- Currently my bike is kick-start only. PO decided it would be cooler without it. I have the starting motor in my box o' parts. How hard is wiring in the starter? It's probably worth the effort, isn't it? Sometimes the old girl is sluggish to kickstart on a cold day.

- Seeing as how I'm rewiring the bike and have some spare cash, I'm considering getting an m.unit and doing it all fancy. If I'm a complete idiot, which I am, how tricky is this to wire in?

[newday777]

If you don't have a good understanding and know how to follow wiring then the munit will be a nightmare. Look through all the posts in the munit section to get an idea of what you will have to understand and do.....
So many people think are doing the best thing going to it but they already understand what has to be done.

[Floshenbarnical]

Thanks yeah, I'll do some more research before I take the plunge.

When I split the bottom cases, will they separate cleanly? As in, the motor is upside-down and I'm removing the bottom case half, which in this orientation is on top. Will it come off by itself or will it have parts stuck to it that will fall off and confound me when i go to reassemble it?

[Floshenbarnical]

Motor is officially out, sitting on a cushion and propped upright by a sack of firewood. Question: how the hell do you people secure these things so you can work on them? The weight distribution is so annoying, the entire thing is desperate to fall forwards.

[denward17]

When I had mine out, I used 2x4 blocks strategically located under the front of the cases.

Not ideal but worked.  I didn't want to buy an engine stand, well, because I'm not in the business of working on engines.

[Floshenbarnical]

That's valid. I'll probably end up doing that. Now I just need to rustle up a workbench that will hold 200 lbs. My folding plastic table I use for small stuff probably isn't up to the task.

[denward17]

I did buy a little portable cart at Tractor Supply that I used for my engine, came in very handy.

[Floshenbarnical]

Only $50 too!

[denward17]

As you can see, I modified my cart to get the platform a little higher so my motorcycle jack would roll under, that way I could lift the motor about 12-15" or so to have easier access.

Also just laid a piece of flake board on top to catch all the dirt/grease/oil that might drip.

[BenelliSEI]

A bit of plywood and threaded rod works too.

[BenelliSEI]

To really work on it some angle iron and a cheap engine stand is the best!

[Floshenbarnical]

A bit of plywood and threaded rod works too.

That's brilliant!

Last night I ordered a few things from David Silver Spares. Replacement #2 carb manifold, neutral switch, exhaust studs, side stand rubber, fuel tank rubber, and new shock bushings. I'm ordering some Ikon (I think) shocks for the rear. I don't know what brand my shocks are, but I'm 220lbs and they're too squishy.

Hopefully, resealing my bottom case and replacing the neutral switch will solve my oil leak.

I read on here that the most popular sprocket combo is 17/48, does anyone have a counterpoint?

[Floshenbarnical]

Got out of work too late to do anything in the garage, so instead I ordered

- New fuel tank rubber
- New caliper piston seals
- Kibblewhite bronze bushings for swingarm
- 4 OEM float needles
- Neutral switch o-ring (just in case - Hondaman said they're usually fine but I'm not taking chances)

To do next:

- Strip, sand, rust treat frame (it's fine, just some orange clouding here and there at some joins)
- Shorten rear frame hoop so the rear wheel definitely clears. Hit a couple big bumps last year, yikes.
- Prime and paint frame (joining the Duplicolor gang)
- Do likewise with swingarm
- Install bushings on swingarm
- Reseal bottom cases
- Install neutral switch
- Clean up motor and repaint

I can do 1-4 this weekend. 5-8 will require the delivery of bushings and a neutral switch.

After the frame is all nice and tidy I'll be cleaning up my wheels and putting new bearings in. Then I'll rebuild the front forks and buy some rear shocks. Then I'll put the wheels back on and I'll have a rolling chassis to start wiring up.

[MRieck]

How about just ordering a reproduction wiring harness? Price is good IMO.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/295676165144?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=295676165144&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002465&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9312979&merchantid=189185977&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhIDB4e078o_xlrdjuSr0azL1QLjYqB4sFO23KRGAK1j4Lc52R7NCngaArO6EALw_wcB

Also....you will need to have those Kibblewhite bushings honed for final fit. I installed needle bearing Swingarm kits in past....never a problem.

[MRieck]

There is this one too though I'd be more inclined to get the German harness.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172949494274?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D259359%26meid%3D59046b915d1b42999346f337adb6073b%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D295676165144%26itm%3D172949494274%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p4429486.c101875.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A17294949427459046b915d1b42999346f337adb6073b%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABYHD%252FO%252BVoFoPPIoZ2g0kOZxWd85mWuIHekSp3qag7zFfwObZeQoitzE%252FDCfcejfO%252BzOLmzZmy11RrgWpA56KM9DpasK%252BGtGYwCFvgaK6ijP5AqShEUhT8f2oX6hvndJ3G0oWH8DD1DlBWseQltpxcSDW2Uu52NrseaxeINpsrDP6vx7ny%252BkPKauMa3yeSanWiioWlW6Qc6wOVzWCjcKiRyLc3BNXjYGGPz4kqnFa%252FO7WuKPVB75qf%252Fgv%252B%252BSmOeUJq46c6eA5RrCJAsLE6ob%252FFA4KrQytrBmhV6MkkI1ZLJyOZhZh7KSywsRd%252Fv0WcMZCg8gCBGdb8tSn7GvyERn5To%252FU8Z2j0RaWaRL%252F7hF2BniHozDLIbSDfNpx0wRvRFx%252BVC%252BCscJN6QY9svj%252FFomAzJrzBE65mKMULDjQGbWSnHpZDSJPHA%252Fj6779Kge0snS%252F0XupD5eFdlN6N8rVKwsw8Lvw%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486

[Floshenbarnical]

How about just ordering a reproduction wiring harness? Price is good IMO.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/295676165144?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=295676165144&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002465&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9312979&merchantid=189185977&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhIDB4e078o_xlrdjuSr0azL1QLjYqB4sFO23KRGAK1j4Lc52R7NCngaArO6EALw_wcB

Also....you will need to have those Kibblewhite bushings honed for final fit. I installed needle bearing Swingarm kits in past....never a problem.

Yes, I had planned on simply replacing the entire harness instead of wiring one from scratch. Question: if I'm running LEDs instead of traditional bulbs - which I already am - how should I be modifying the harness to accomodate LEDs? The harness I took off was a homegrown rats nest of mismatched wires, gauges, and connectors so I'm not entirely sure I can just eyeball it to figure it out. #$%* the PO, obviously.

I'm not an electrician but if I have been able to figure out the rest of this bike's problems using SOHC forum and Google then I should be able to get the bike firing and shining and telling me the time.

Finally, how should I be modifying these bushings? I haven't seen anything about that, how do you mean "honed"

[MRieck]

How about just ordering a reproduction wiring harness? Price is good IMO.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/295676165144?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=295676165144&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002465&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9312979&merchantid=189185977&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhIDB4e078o_xlrdjuSr0azL1QLjYqB4sFO23KRGAK1j4Lc52R7NCngaArO6EALw_wcB

Also....you will need to have those Kibblewhite bushings honed for final fit. I installed needle bearing Swingarm kits in past....never a problem.

Yes, I had planned on simply replacing the entire harness instead of wiring one from scratch. Question: if I'm running LEDs instead of traditional bulbs - which I already am - how should I be modifying the harness to accomodate LEDs? The harness I took off was a homegrown rats nest of mismatched wires, gauges, and connectors so I'm not entirely sure I can just eyeball it to figure it out. #$%* the PO, obviously.

I'm not an electrician but if I have been able to figure out the rest of this bike's problems using SOHC forum and Google then I should be able to get the bike firing and shining and telling me the time.

Finally, how should I be modifying these bushings? I haven't seen anything about that, how do you mean "honed"

The ID of the bushing is smaller than the OD of the pivot tube. The ID has to opened up using a hone....the correct size ball hone would probably work OK. Maybe Kibblwhite has changed things and machined them to fit....you can call them and find out.

[Floshenbarnical]

How about just ordering a reproduction wiring harness? Price is good IMO.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/295676165144?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=295676165144&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9002465&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9312979&merchantid=189185977&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhIDB4e078o_xlrdjuSr0azL1QLjYqB4sFO23KRGAK1j4Lc52R7NCngaArO6EALw_wcB

Also....you will need to have those Kibblewhite bushings honed for final fit. I installed needle bearing Swingarm kits in past....never a problem.

Yes, I had planned on simply replacing the entire harness instead of wiring one from scratch. Question: if I'm running LEDs instead of traditional bulbs - which I already am - how should I be modifying the harness to accomodate LEDs? The harness I took off was a homegrown rats nest of mismatched wires, gauges, and connectors so I'm not entirely sure I can just eyeball it to figure it out. #$%* the PO, obviously.

I'm not an electrician but if I have been able to figure out the rest of this bike's problems using SOHC forum and Google then I should be able to get the bike firing and shining and telling me the time.

Finally, how should I be modifying these bushings? I haven't seen anything about that, how do you mean "honed"

The ID of the bushing is smaller than the OD of the pivot tube. The ID has to opened up using a hone....the correct size ball hone would probably work OK. Maybe Kibblwhite has changed things and machined them to fit....you can call them and find out.

I hate phone calls. I’ll just try to pop them over the pivot and see if it works

Edit: No update to speak of other than the driver delivering my Progressive springs delivered them to THE WRONG HOUSE. It's not either of my neighbors according to the pic the driver emailed to me so that'll be a fun excursion later. Also when I told Amazon it had been delivered the the wrong house they were like "Thanks! Bye!"

[Floshenbarnical]

Happy birthday to me. Turned 34 yesterday.

Was woken up at 7am by my gf, who gave me gifts and then went off to work. I headed to the gym for a gruelling shoulder workout and then got into garage. I only had a few hours because she had secret birthday plans (short rib up in Rochester - worth the drive) but I managed to:

- FINALLY get all the wheel bearings etc. out of my wheels. You could not imagine the force required to get them out. Was wailing on them with a great big hammer and a piece of rebar. Sounded like a rail gun going off.

- Popped out my seized pistons with a grease nipple and a Harbor Freight $12.99 grease gun. Good thing I did. They're #$%*ed. They'll clean up but good grief. Thanks to whoever it was who recommended the grease gun. Made extremely short work of it.

- Took out steering stem etc. PO had put in tapered bearings evidently, but I don't really have any guarantee he did it correctly. So I'm going to redo it anyway. I think the stiffness in the steering was because he used this thick, weird, red grease to lubricate them. The grease looks like melted twizzlers and is extremely stiff and thick. No jokes, please.