Basics - that you probably know:
- have the plugs out or compression will fight you.
- you can only turn the crank forward if the starter is installed.
- turn the crank from the alternator, the tempting 17mm nut at the timing plate turns through delicate parts. OK if it's a gentle rotation forward but trying to fight compression or go reverse against the starter is likely to break NLA parts.
Just push a tappet against the cam and movement is obvious. I don't know/remember if valves are moved with the adjusters all the way out but I think so.
There's an adjustment order that minimizes crank turning. I don't use it, it doesn't save enough time and effort to be worthwhile for me.
I do cylinders in order. So watch the intake tappet in #1, when you see it closing turn the crank to T 1-4. Adjust both valves for #1. Then turn the crank one full turn to T 1-4 again and adjust intake and exhaust on #4
Same for #2, but it'll be the T 2-3 mark. Adjust in and ex for #2. Then turn the crank one full turn to T 2-3 again and adjust intake and exhaust on #3.
I do another round checking that the locknuts are good and tight and that the clearances are correct.
You can adjust exhaust during the intake stroke and intake during exhaust stroke but I prefer this way using TDC between compression and power strokes, do what works for you.
