Topic: Painting a K1 750 Top Triple Tree

[ZTatZAU]

After reading more than a few historical threads on this subject, I'm getting ready to recoat my K1 750's top triple tree.  I've stripped what remained of the original finish, cleaned it well and lightly scuffed the bare aluminum with green scotch bright pads.

To keep this quick, easy, and economical, I plan to paint it with (rattle can) Rustoleum rather than mixing and spaying anything more exotic, or having it powder coated.  My questions for those who've been down this road before, are...

1)  With the top bridge being aluminum, should I definitely apply a few thin coats of self etching primer before applying the black finish coats?

2)  To achieve the best results and the most original top bridge look, should I use Rustoleum flat black, satin black, or semi-gloss black?

3)  For this particular (top bridge) application, is there any significant difference (or benefit) between the standard Rustoleum "Protective Enamel" rattle can and the slightly more expensive Rustoleum "Professional High Performance Enamel" rattle can?

4)  Would a top coat of clear be required or recommended?

Thanks ZT

[grcamna2]

I've prepped triples and painted them with Duplicolor #DE1635 engine enamel;they call it a semi-gloss black,although if I heat-cure it in an oven at 200 degrees for over a half hour,it has more of a gloss to it and the heat-curing also makes the paint much more durable for the long haul.

I feel a satin black is more similar to factory Honda paint on that part.

[ZTatZAU]

I've prepped triples and painted them with Duplicolor #DE1635 engine enamel;they call it a semi-gloss black,although if I heat-cure it in an oven at 200 degrees for over a half hour,it has more of a gloss to it and the heat-curing also makes the paint much more durable for the long haul.

I feel a satin black is more similar to factory Honda paint on that part.

Thanks for the color recommendation, grcamna2.

Do you use any sort of primer before the duplicolor you've used?

And do you clear coat over the black?

ZT

[grcamna2]

I've prepped triples and painted them with Duplicolor #DE1635 engine enamel;they call it a semi-gloss black,although if I heat-cure it in an oven at 200 degrees for over a half hour,it has more of a gloss to it and the heat-curing also makes the paint much more durable for the long haul.

I feel a satin black is more similar to factory Honda paint on that part.

Thanks for the color recommendation, grcamna2.

Do you use any sort of primer before the duplicolor you've used?

And do you clear coat over the black?

ZT

Well,I have used Duplicolor engine enamel primer which is also heat resistant paint;generally/90% of the time I spray the Duplicolor DE1615 aluminum engine heat paint directly on the engine which I've prepped and washed,then spray the first light coat directly over the bare metal w/o a primer.

The engine heat paint doesn't seem to need a primer;I spray a couple light coats at first,then a final medium coat and it bonds well to the bare surface. I then oven-cure it and it's great.

[ZTatZAU]

...
Well,I have used Duplicolor engine enamel primer which is also heat resistant paint;generally/90% of the time I spray the Duplicolor DE1615 aluminum engine heat paint directly on the engine which I've prepped and washed,then spray the first light coat directly over the bare metal w/o a primer.

The engine heat paint doesn't seem to need a primer;I spray a couple light coats at first,then a final medium coat and it bonds well to the bare surface. I then oven-cure it and it's great.

I appreciate the advice on engine painting should I ever get to that!  But for now on the top triple tree, I think I'll probably start with self etching primer on the bare aluminum and then see how the Rustoleum Satin Black turns out.

Worst case scenario would be to strip it all off again and start over.  We learn best by doing, eh?
ZT

[grcamna2]

I think it will turn out well w/ satin black.

[ZTatZAU]

I think it will turn out well w/ satin black.

I'll keep ya'll posted!
ZT

[grcamna2]

How's your outdoor humidity lately?
I like when the humidity in the air is 70% or less.. and the temps are 65+ degrees; we've had lots of rain out here lately..

[ZTatZAU]

How's your outdoor humidity lately?
I like when the humidity in the air is 70% or less.. and the temps are 65+ degrees; we've had lots of rain out here lately..

Thanks for asking grcamna2!
Outside temps today were running 55 & 72% humidity.  My 73 Ironhead was saying, "Ride me today!", but I decided to do some painting instead.  Inside the shop today, where I put up a little make-shift spray booth last night, the temp was 74 with 42% humidity. 

I warmed up the triple tree and the rattle can over a portable radiator; and then sprayed 3 nice coats of self etching primer on the triple tree.  I'll wait at least 24 hours before spraying the rustoleum satin black and see how it turns out... (tomorrow ?).



ZT

[HondaMan]

The top tree on the 750 was always a satin finish, if it matters. It didn't have clear coat: if it did, it might have lasted longer? They all chip off the OEM paint, in sections. There's no primer underneath their paint job, either(!). That's probably why it doesn't stick so well?

[ZTatZAU]

The top tree on the 750 was always a satin finish, if it matters. It didn't have clear coat: if it did, it might have lasted longer? They all chip off the OEM paint, in sections. There's no primer underneath their paint job, either(!). That's probably why it doesn't stick so well?

I appreciate your positive feedback, HondaMan!  But, I'm thinking you might have missed this part...

"I warmed up the triple tree and the rattle can over a portable radiator; and then sprayed 3 nice coats of self etching primer on the triple tree.  I'll wait at least 24 hours before spraying the rustoleum satin black and see how it turns out... (tomorrow ?)."

So I guess I'm on the right track.
I'll let ya'll know how it turns out!
ZT

[Don R]

 The last few early top trees I've tightened I didn't draw the aluminum tightly to the D washers. It's pretty disappointing when they break. Snug works for me.

[MauiK3]

I definitely would use a self etching primer. Aluminum is notorious for shedding paint.

[willbird]

I definitely would use a self etching primer. Aluminum is notorious for shedding paint.

I recently delved into this topic. The term "DTM" is an important term, stands for "direct to metal". Some of the DTM primers are ONLY for bare metal, there cannot be any body filler present. Then the next variable is choosing a DTM that plays well with your choice of top coat, and obeying the instructions for how soon after priming that you can or must paint. Often there is an initial window time where it is fine, then after that window closes you must prep the surface by sanding or using scotchbrite.

[ZTatZAU]

Thanks again to all who replied.  I really appreciate the info and advice you all provided.

My top bridge was stripped to bare metal, primed with 3 coats of Rustoleum "Automotive Self Etching Primer" with a few minutes between coats. The next day, I lightly wet sanded the primed triple tree with 1500 grit sand paper and then top coated with three coats of Rustoleum Satin Black "Protective Enamel".

The next day I used the same procedure on the two handlebar caps; except no wet sanding after the primer and they were finish coated about two hours after priming.  The caps didn't turn out as smooth as the top tree did, and the satin black finish is a little shinier than I was looking for.  But overall, I am satisfied with the result.



ZT  (CB750 Apprentice)