Topic: CB400F handlebars on CB550F

[Nduetime]

I've read that the CB550F handlebars can be swapped with CB400F. One thing I don't see in any of the post/comments is whether or not any of the cables (clutch, throttle, brake) need to be replaced with shorter ones. Can anyone offer their input? I'd greatly appreciate anything and everything.

[Don R]

 I have them on a 750 or two, I use 550 cables.

[carnivorous chicken]

I don't think the difference in rise is all that drastic (unlike, say, clip-ons or clubmans). I'd just do the switch and use the same cables, maybe a little creative routing, but they'll work. And if you find it's too much, you can always order shorter ones later. I bought a cable from Motion Pro for a 350F with clubmans and it worked out great -- just be sure of your measurements. And it was a little pricey -- I think $75 or so.

[grcamna2]

I don't think the difference in rise is all that drastic (unlike, say, clip-ons or clubmans). I'd just do the switch and use the same cables, maybe a little creative routing, but they'll work. And if you find it's too much, you can always order shorter ones later. I bought a cable from Motion Pro for a 350F with clubmans and it worked out great -- just be sure of your measurements. And it was a little pricey -- I think $75 or so.

I was able to get 400F Repro bars from Dennis Kirk 8 years ago.
I still have them in the plastic package with a stock number on the bag,in case you need the info.

[newday777]

I've read that the CB550F handlebars can be swapped with CB400F. One thing I don't see in any of the post/comments is whether or not any of the cables (clutch, throttle, brake) need to be replaced with shorter ones. Can anyone offer their input? I'd greatly appreciate anything and everything.

So from the title, you want to put the (short) 400F bars onto your 550F?
The late 400F from 77/78 were taller bars than the early, 75/76 400F, which were closer to the original 550 bars. There is 2"-3" difference in cable length using the short 400F bars. You can put the shorter 400F throttle cables on  if you can find them.
I'm not sure on the length of the clutch cables as I don't know the 550 or thr 400 well enough now to say which cable to use. I'm a 750 guy and don't remember the cables part numbers to get for the swap you want to do from my long ago parts manager time in the 70s.
The brake hose, I would suggest that you order braided stainless steel brake hoses to the length you need to look correct routing, and to get better braking performance than the old rubber lines give. Get the bars on and measure the length needed to order the correct routing length hose.

You say 550F, is that the 550F Supersport or the 550four K model? I tried looking at your posts to see if you posted any pictures of your bike yet and didn't see any to know for sure.
When asking for parts, many people from my parts man and manager experience say F as a shortened for the four(number of cylinders) rather than the F that Honda used as a model designation for the Supersport model, which puts confusion into a partsman when looking for getting parts so you get the correct part. 😉

[Stev-o]

The 400F is a good sport bar, I put them on my CB450...



You should not have an issue with too long of cables.

[BenelliSEI]

My wife didn’t like them on her 400F, so I swapped them with the bars from my 550K. I don’t remember having do do anything with cables or wiring (other than the arduous task of pulling them out and back through the bars!). The low bars were very comfortable on the 550K.

[BenelliSEI]

Here’s the 400F the tall bars from the 550K. The 400F had braided lines for the front brake. I may have made them a bit longer, but can’t recall!

[Nduetime]

Sorry….a little more context. I have a 1975 Cb550K and am looking to replace the handlebars with a set of reproduction Cb400F bars which are lower. I inadvertently indicated a Cb550F but it should read Cb550K, sorry for the confusion. At the same time, I’d like to upgrade the brakes with stainless steel lines. That was the reason for the initial wuestion because I’d like to order all I’d need one time. I suppose it would be best to just order the bars first and then see what needs to be ordered in terms of brake lines and any additional cables that need adjustment?

[newday777]

OK that'll work.
I don't think you'll find the full information to be able to order ahead. I tried to on doing my 750 swap to similar bars(repop 72 CB750K2 euro bars). I bought the bars from 4into1.com and their short cable and hose set, the throttle cables and clutch cable were the correct length but the ss brake hoses were a bit long and I had to put some extra turns to make them work. Also be aware that I had problems with their throttle cables(Chinese made parts sold as well in the company is Chinese owned), the lock nut and barrel at the carbs were not matching threads and the nuts didn't lock tight and stripped loose. I highly recommend not getting their parts if you want quality parts. They don't have phone customer service either so it's 100% internet sales and service. Some of their parts are OK but much is inferior.

As said above by all, you have to be creative with your cable and hose routing to find where there isn't any binding on the clutch and throttle cables when you swing the steering around in all positions  at any point in the swing. Take pictures from different angles of how they are routed now and after, and use a tape measure to figure out how much shorter you will need. It just takes time. I'll include pictures of a CB750K5(blue) with euro bars, CB500K1 with stock bars, and CB400 with the stock early short bars you are wanting for how the cables were run.
As I said earlier, you can probably use CB400 throttle cables for your 550 as they are similar length and mounting on the carbs and bars. I haven't done a bar swap on the 550 but having worked as a parts manager I know the parts are similar other than not knowing what the clutch cable length differences are(been too long of time since trying to help do this parts swap on the 550 in the shop in the 70s).

Hint: use a heat gun to warm up the old bars before you start to pull the wire loom from the old bars, that will soften the hardened and brittle plastic sheath that is around the wires so it flexes to get through the bars(use gloves to protect your hands) and then warm the sheath again to put it back inside the new bars. Move the heat gun so you don't burn/blister the plastic sheath!
Hope this helps.

I looked at your profile to see where you were located (you put United States.....) to see if you are in riding season southern climate or in winter storage mode as it is here in NH with salted roads, semi frozen winter this year so down time from riding.

[newday777]

And another hint, when pulling the wires through the new bars, tape a 2'-3' piece of new 14-16 gauge wire to the wires to be able to pull slightly you feed the wires in the hole from the grip end. Lube the outside of the sheath with dielectric grease to help it slide through the insde of the bars.

[Stev-o]

I suppose it would be best to just order the bars first and then see what needs to be ordered in terms of brake lines and any additional cables that need adjustment?

Yes, I would recommend that.  And I highly recommend Apex for the brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

[Bankerdanny]

I suppose it would be best to just order the bars first and then see what needs to be ordered in terms of brake lines and any additional cables that need adjustment?

Yes, I would recommend that.  And I highly recommend Apex for the brake lines...

http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp

I can second the recommendation for Apex. I had a Apex line on my 550F with M bars, my current 750F with Euro bars, and I put them on my buddy's 750F, which also has Euro bars.

The nice thing about Apex it that they use screw on type ends rather than crimp on, so you can easily clock the line as needed and can order several different bends for the master size, again to get just the right fit.

[BenelliSEI]

I get all my lines from Raymond at Apex. Outstanding service at unbeatable prices.

[jonda500]

I had 400-4 bars on my 500 for a while - the cables/lengths all worked fine but the positioning of the master cylinder and brake hose was quite tricky. With much #%$*ing around they eventually ended up less than a mm from the tacho rather than hard up against it.
They weren't oem bars though, I forget where I got them.
I have since changed them to 'euro style' 500/550 bars which are almost as low but a little wider so they accommodate the brake parts better and feel more suited to the weight of the 500.
John