Topic: 2 Questions

[Vintageguy]

Replacing the alternator cover on my 1978 Cb750F.
Question 1; What are the 4 small screws on the inside back of the cover for, and are they difficult to remove?
Question 2; Do I need to put sealer on the gasket when I do the change?
Thank you for any/all responses.

[bryanj]

1 cant picture the screws you are talking about, post a pic so we can be sure
2 NO DEFINATELY NOT, use a new gasket with at the most clean grease

[HondaMan]

About question #1: there are 4 long 6mm screws that hold the alternator's coil assembly to the inside of the cover. You can remove them with an impact driver from the old cover, you'll need that...

For Question#2: there isn't much oil inside this cover under normal circumstances. Some will dribble in when the engine is hot and the bike is parked on the sidestand (or laying on its left side?   ), but normally it just drains back to the crankcase. If too much oil gets into this area then the starter clutch can slip (it is mounted to the back of the rotor on the crankshaft).

[MauiK3]

I would just add to, of course, check the mating surfaces for minor dings that might hold the cover off and create a leak.

[Vintageguy]

Is a hand-held impact tool sufficient for the removal of the 4 long coil screws? It's all I have (but have never had much luck with it).

[bryanj]

All i ever used

[newday777]

Is a hand-held impact tool sufficient for the removal of the 4 long coil screws? It's all I have (but have never had much luck with it).

If you are using the correct bits and are holding the impact wrench square on the head yes it is all you need.
I've seen people not hold screwdrivers and impact wrench and impact guns off to the side that gouge the heck out of screws.
The correct bits you need are JIS. Japanese Industrial  Screw bits. Not Phillips bits(USA cross head 'Phillips' is the wrong bits on these screws)

[MauiK3]

JIS and Phillips look very similar but are quite different, Phillips fit JIS fasteners very poorly and tend to cam out, damaging the screw. JIS fit the JIS screws very tightly.

[BenelliSEI]

You will also need a long bit in the driver to get it square. +3” at least.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I hold my impact firmly with downward counterclockwise twisting pressure then hit the #$%* out of it with a firm sharp hit

[Stev-o]

I hold my impact firmly with downward counterclockwise twisting pressure then hit the #$%* out of it with a firm sharp hit

+1.  The twisting pressure is key...

[Tracksnblades1]

A very firm grip on the impact driver will ensure your success.
Either the driver’s bit or handle will rotate when you strike it.
A firm grip will ensure the bit turns instead of the handle.

I’ve also held a loosening preload on the impact handle while striking it with good success too.
Holding a preload on the driver while striking requires a better grip on the handle than merely striking it. It also takes up any excessive wear or clearance in the tool or bit engagement.

The performance of the driver will depend on the condition of the bit (jis) and screw head. Excessive wear on either
will adversely affect driver’s alignment, bit engagement an ultimately the screws removal.

A better quality tool will usually perform better…

[willbird]

Benelli just described the whole process in a thread in the project forum, it was helpful.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,193860.325.html

One detail is that the two covers side by side on that side of the engine have two hollow dowels that a bolt goes through, good idea to try not to lose those and or replace them if a PO lost them for you :-). My screws down inside came out find without an extended bit but I could see that the extended bit would be a good addition to the hammer impact tool.

Bill