Here's the features of the clutches as they changed: you'd have to decide which one you'd like?
Early clutch (not counting the sandcast/K0 ones here...) was simplest, with 7 friction plates that were all the same type. This gives a nice, linear feel and can hold up to 90 HP with no troubles. It lasts the longest of all the designs.
The next clutch came in the 1974 750K4 bikes. This one has the dual-steel plates with the tiny springs in between them, riveted together to provide a slight delay in the clutch's final 'grab' moment. This clutch has a different top cork plate with wider outer tabs (so you don't put it in the wrong place in the stack), and this top plate has slant-cut corks on it to provide, in combination with the dual-spring plate right behind it, a moment of 'slip' if the clutch is dropped too hard. This came about from complaints of the 'sudden clutch' that showed up in popular motorcycle magazines of the era, mostly because the Kawasaki Z900 had a smooth, progressive clutch (that wore out quickly) and the test-riders all mentioned it in late 1973's reviews.
The 3rd version of the clutch appeared in the 750F2 bikes and was used in the K7/8 models, too. There were 2 different clutch baskets associated with this one, and they seemed to come-and-go in production. The 1st clutch basket was similar to the K4 version with the 'slipper' sprung plate(s) in the 4th position (from the outside) and the top plate having the wider outer tabs and slant-cut cork faces. The 2nd version had slightly thicker cork plates (0.142" thick instead of 0.136" thick) and the slipper plate on the top of the stack with the dual-sprung plate behind it in position #2. This slipper plate still had the wider outer tabs so it could not be put in the wrong place. The important part here is: the clutch basket is slightly longer (deeper) than the ones before the F2 bikes, and this means the clutch cover must also be pushed further out from the engine cases, so it is about 2mm wider (thicker) so as to put the clutch lifter gizmo slightly further from the top pressure plate. It has enough adjustment (barely) to still work if used on the earlier engines, but only 'reaches' far enough into those engines to work well with non-slipper plate arrangements, lest they rattle because the max extension only allows for 1/2-turn slack adjustment (which PeWe references above), so this combination of parts can make clutch rattle an issue in that combination.
Got all that?
Whew...
Your final definition of clutch plates is dictated by whichever clutch basket your engine has. You can forgo the (now worn and noisy) dual-sprung steel clutch plate pair if your bike has one, by swapping out the rearmost steel plate with the thicker one from the 1978-79 GL1000 clutch. Then you can buy a single square-cut-cork plate from folks like PartsNmore (let me know if you want their part number) to fill the top spot, and use normal plates for all the rest. If you use CORRECT oil and add some ZDDP (2 ounces per oil change is enough) this makes for a smooth, powerful, long-lasting clutch that can handle 100 HP and can last over 100k miles (mine has done that).
