Topic: Upgrade for 1977 CB 550 headlight?

[Kennedy]

Hi Guys!!  I have a 1977 Honda CB550/4. At night the headlight just isn't up to providing a safe, visible road-view. Do you have ideas about upgrades for this old headlight? LEDs?

Thanks in advance...
Mike
Cincinnati, Ohio

[Duanob]

Simple easy and cheap is the H4 bulb and new motorcycle specific lens. Should cost around $50 for both and are plug and play. You can change the bulb to different wattage anytime. Currently I run a 35/35W (I would say equal brightness to the old OEM incandescent) around the city but if I were doing a road trip where I might be riding at night I will throw in the 55/60W.

Of course if you like throwing a bunch of money at the bike you can try HID or LED.

[TwoTired]

Step one is to measure the voltage getting to the headlight you have and then compare it to the actual battery voltage.

The quick connectors and switch contacts get more resistive with age, dropping the voltage to the headlight.

Imo, the proper cure for such problems is clean all connectors and switches restoring them to original low resistance.  Even a half volt difference makes a big difference in light output.  And, the reduced resistance makes the charging system much more effective.

Others feel that is too much work and instead install bypas wiring to the headlight, activated by a relay.

In either case do NOT go for a lamp that is high wattage, as it doesnt take much to overwhelm the alternator, leaving little to no power for battery charging.  Low batteries can leave you stranded. And with resistance problem still there, the chraging system is still taxed/less efficient.

[Deltarider]

I have had a H4 55/60 Watts halogen from the beginning (it was on the bike) and I can assure you the charging system can handle that easily. The later models like the CB550K3 for European markets even had that halogen fitted standard. The problem lies in the riding. US has a different infrastructure than we have and I know from own observation, that people are used to pick a motor for even the shortest distances. That combined with strange things like automatic brought on running lights, higher wattages where you least need them, the silly amber running lights that in spite of the 16 Watts they consume, offer nothing but childish looks (like a runaway autoscooter from the fairground) and less noticeable blinkers as a bonus. If you really worry about the charging - you shouldn't - go for the Philips H4 Ecovision that draws 20% less and still offers a better light than a standard non Philips 55/60 H4. Yes, it's been tested and won awards. Not cheap, but excellent quality. Same goes for the Hella, Bosch, Cibié and Maréchal reflectors.
Here you can save some more:
For blinkers you in the US have 23 or even 25 Watts bulbs where in Europe they were 18 or 21 Watts max. In vision you won't notice the difference. For brake/tail we have 21/5 Watts were you have 27/8. Again, you won't see the difference. Europe has tested and approved (by I don't how many institutions) bulbs.
I'm sick and tired of blaming the charging system. As if Honda didn't know how to develop an adequate charging system. The thought alone. Strange, that that same 'incapable' charging system never is a topic on European sites. Ever wondered how the police (see vid) managed? 

[strynboen]

 i have the 55w in my late 550 k3..and absolut no problems holding power on the bike..but running it at heigh rpm as ve do in Europa..think some" us "drivers run their bikes like it vas v8 cars..small engines need rpm to live and make hk power and elektric..

[Deltarider]

The stupidest thing is the headlight brought on before the bike is even started. The one who made that law, should be shot, than hung for a fortnight in a public space and then have his remains fed to the dogs. I tell you yanks what you can do. Since you like to idle at traffic lights so much, why not do something smart with the neutral switch and a relay (a falling relay we call it, sorry don't know the term in English) so the headlight is shut off for the moment and only the pilot light is on. Oh, you don't have a pilot light? Then buy a good European reflector that has one, but refrain from this Led nonsense and so making your bike less reliable. There are so many good products. Buy them. Go for a ride on a dark country road with the H4 55/60 Watts Philips X-treme Vision Moto in a good reflector like Bosch, Hella, Cibié or Maréchal and report back. Then we're talking.

[strynboen]

led is fine for rear light..but still ..no real need for it...only if you rides vith elektric heatet stuff..but that is off topic..

[Deltarider]

Strynboen, led is excellent for a taillight, but that's about it. Unfortunately we have a combo with the brakelight. I've studied to do something smart by replacing the 4 Watts pilot light (Ba9s) in the headlight reflector. I was looking for a Led so I could use that as a day running light, instead of the H4 (which is an overkill ofcourse) and save petrol. Guess what, I couldn't find a led that could offer the required lumens or it had to be a tower so big it would interfere with the headlight halogen bulb. Moreover the sales manager of a wholesale supplier of all automotive lamps imaginable http://www.lampengrossier.nl/, talked me out of it. He argued that a led in itself is nothing without the special reflector it needs. Instead of a led and just for fun (and to prove something) I later purchased a small 20 Watts halogen Ba9s bulb (Philips) to experiment with, so yes, folks, at night I now run a staggering 75/80 Watts in the headlight reflector alone. Oh, my, oh, my!
In daytime I now just switch on the pilot light (P) which offers more than enough lumens for a DRL and save me the equivalent of 35 Watts in gas. Ideally I should disconnect the brown wire from forsaid lamp and have it connected to a separate DRL switch on the handlebars: a switch that brings on just that 20 Watts halogen without the taillight and 4 instrument lights (18 Watts saved!). On entering a tunnel I'd then just have to switch the existing standard switch to 'P' to add taillight and instrument lights. At night I could switch off my DRL as it probably will not add much to the beam (filament in the wrong place). But I guess I will be to lazy. Maybe if I find a switch to my taste that will not spoil the authentic looks. BTW, if one of you guys have convincing results (450 lumens) with a led that can replace the pilot Ba9s and really illuminates the reflector (and is as small as a Ba9s!), I'm open to it but so far my search has been disappointing.

[TwoTired]

Honda's published spec for a Cb500 K2 Alternator is 12V @ 0.2 kWh @ 5000 RPM.
For a CB550 K0 the published spec for the alternator is 12V - 0.11 kWh @ 2000 RPM.
Both these models had a headlight/ general lighting on/off control.

With the F models and the K3 came a design change, fostered by a DOT rules change, that was to mandate a motorcycle's lighting be on when the engine was running.
(I believe they had a safety study that showed less motorcycle run downs when lighting was employed, allowing other drivers to see the motorcycle more readily and avoid.)
In anticipation of the DOT rules change, Honda removed the headlight on/off switch, and simultaneously changed the alternator spec. to: 12v-0.130 kWh @ 2000 RPM.

I haven't examined all the alternator models to determine if it was just a specifications change by a clerk, or an actual design change of the alternator.  They parts do seem to look the same.  What I DO know, is that at idle speeds (1000 RPM) ,the stock bike is depleting the battery to the tune of - 6 amps (-72watts), and a larger than stock wattage rated headlamp will certainly increase that depletion rate.  Certainly, riding style can mitigate the depletion significance.

A word or two about specsmanship.
The published spec. is usually a worst case spec, meant to be used to determine replacement needs.  If the alternator doesn't produce to spec., it has to be replaced (presumably under warranty).
In practice, what this means is that most of the units will actually produce more than minimum spec.  But, the average or maximum spec is not specified.  Individual unit power production CAN be measured and determined on a case by case basis,establishing an actual fact.  But, forum discussions do not specify those actual capabilities, as that would take more effort than tapping on a keyboard.

For a properly engineered system, the worst case production device operation must be the "plan to" goal in order to apply to all examples in the field.
Therefore: statements of "higher wattage headlights worked fine for me", do not necessarily apply to all users of similar equipment.  Particularly when their sample alternator has NOT been characterized regarding actual power production.

I recommend those wishing to up the bike's electrical power consumption, first test their system to see if it exceeds the minimum power generation specified for their model.

Otherwise, plan on 130 Watts max production from a 77 CB550.  Or, risk a disabled bike due to a depleted battery.

I still know the stock headlight can be made brighter by delivering to it full rated voltage.  NO headlight will project rated illumination with less than rated voltage.  But, if it draws more amperage, every single high resistance connector and switch in line with it will heat more and waste more of the power available from the alternator, than it would with a lesser wattage rated device.

May your future be ... bright...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I use an LED bulb on my 550.  It is a plug and play improvement.  Brighter (not obnoxious at all) and less load. 

[Deltarider]

I use an LED bulb on my 550.

A led bulb for what?

[Bouchard]

I use an LED bulb on my 550.

A led bulb for what?

try not riding at night then you wont have to worry about lumens

[Bouchard]

try not riding at night and you wont have to worry about lumens

[willbird]

Honda's published spec for a Cb500 K2 Alternator is 12V @ 0.2 kWh @ 5000 RPM.
For a CB550 K0 the published spec for the alternator is 12V - 0.11 kWh @ 2000 RPM.
Both these models had a headlight/ general lighting on/off control.

With the F models and the K3 came a design change, fostered by a DOT rules change, that was to mandate a motorcycle's lighting be on when the engine was running.
(I believe they had a safety study that showed less motorcycle run downs when lighting was employed, allowing other drivers to see the motorcycle more readily and avoid.)
In anticipation of the DOT rules change, Honda removed the headlight on/off switch, and simultaneously changed the alternator spec. to: 12v-0.130 kWh @ 2000 RPM.

I recall reading tha

[willbird]

Honda's published spec for a Cb500 K2 Alternator is 12V @ 0.2 kWh @ 5000 RPM.
For a CB550 K0 the published spec for the alternator is 12V - 0.11 kWh @ 2000 RPM.
Both these models had a headlight/ general lighting on/off control.

With the F models and the K3 came a design change, fostered by a DOT rules change, that was to mandate a motorcycle's lighting be on when the engine was running.
(I believe they had a safety study that showed less motorcycle run downs when lighting was employed, allowing other drivers to see the motorcycle more readily and avoid.)
In anticipation of the DOT rules change, Honda removed the headlight on/off switch, and simultaneously changed the alternator spec. to: 12v-0.130 kWh @ 2000 RPM.

I remember reading that Canada requires all motor vehicles on the road to have headlights on all the time ?? Some have had the dealer change the setting in the body control module to turn that option on. With more states requiring headlights on in the rain I have considered doing that, or just covering the day/night sensor on the dash with something.

I got one of the Philips X-tremeVision moto bolbs to give a try. I used to run a higher wattage H4 high beam in my K2 and never had charge issues, don't recall the high beam wattage. at one time the device that blinked between high and low beams in daylight was a popular motorcycle accessory, made it look like the headlight bulb was falling out. Folks also claimed that it made the high beam, filament last longer because it was hot rather than riding around with it cold under the vibration most MC have.

Bill

[Quattrocilindri]

This is how I got around the lighting issues on my 350F:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,188705.msg2192567.html#msg2192567