Topic: Best way to adjust cam chain?

[M 750K6]

I guess that is a version of Bryan's pressure on the kickstarter method, but I'd need to take all 4 plugs out to take the compression away, in order to do what you suggest. OK if they're already out, of course.

I like the suggestion of, before tightening the adjuster, pushing the tensioner from behind, then releasing, to check it is free to move. On a 750, I don't find the factory method of 15 degs ATDC too difficult.

[bryanj]

Remember that i used to do this in a workshop on timed servicing so you got into a routine of order of doing things

[M 750K6]

👍 I will try the kickstarter method. Undo adjuster, check it is free. Then I can see how it's easy to hold the kicker with a left hand and tighten the adjuster with the right. No points cover, nor valve cap removal.

[bryanj]

Correct, and you SHOULD NOT be turning the engine with the nut inside the points cover anyway

[M 750K6]

Correct, and you SHOULD NOT be turning the engine with the nut inside the points cover anyway

Oh, I have been, to adjust the points and timing. How should we turn the engine over?

[bryanj]

Kick start or bolt under generator cover.

It is just allowable to use the big nut when all sparkplugs are removed

[willbird]

Kick start or bolt under generator cover.

It is just allowable to use the big nut when all sparkplugs are removed

I think it is really better overall to not use it all. Saw a video on setting valves where the guy showed putting bike in 5th gear and using the rear wheel to roll the engine over. Have not done it that way yet myself but it seems to make sense. He might have been using a mirror to watch the rocker arms while doing this.

[Deltarider]

I hesitate to communicate this, anyway... here goes. For the last 43 years I've turned the crank by its big nut under the points cover without removing the sparkplugs (engine cold!). At first with an adjustable wrench. There's a risk you will round the hexagon, so it's better to use a 23mm socket on a T-handle. There's still a risk you will round that hexagon, in Hondaspeak: WASHER, SPECIAL, but... the risk damaging the bolt must be a CB750 thing.

[newday777]

the risk damaging the bolt must be a CB750 thing.

It is. Very different than your bike.
The 750 has a small diameter replaceable shaft that screws into the end of crank and is easily bent.

[newday777]

the risk damaging the bolt must be a CB750 thing.

It is. Very different than your bike.
The 750 has a small diameter replaceable shaft that screws into the end of crank and is easily bent.

The advancer shaft on a 750, #8

[jonda500]

Looks to be M6 - same diameter as the 350/400/500/550 use. I also have been using that big nut to turn sohc honda engines for 40 years. Since hearing about the bent shafts in this forum I now usually make sure the plugs are out first.
John

[bryanj]

The 750 bends the shaft making the timing erratic, the 500 etc can bend the bolt with the same result, just cos you ben lucky and not bent it does not make it a good idea