Topic: 1976 550cb ft reservoir ? about bore size

[jjc]

Well I got tired of doing the same thing w/o any changes. So I got another master cylinder,mounted it & pushed back the pads on each side. Unfortunately, results were the same. I ran about 6-7 bowls of fluid through but stall can't get a hard lever. I get a somewhat firm lever, but it still goes to the bars. Looks like this bike is not going to get on the road unless I unplumb the right disc & just run the original right. Just leave the rt disc on for looks.

[Oddjob]

Just remembered something. Someone with a similar problem, turned out to be the brake light switch, it was allowing air to enter to line every time the lever was pulled. It wasn’t the sealing washer, it was sucking air through the plastic seal on the back where the contacts are. Might just be your problem as well.

[jjc]

Don't quit under stand this but I now have a new 5/8 master so I would not have that issue now,right? Being I'm running a new switch with the new master
.

[scottly]

Please post some pics of how your system is set up.

[Oddjob]

Stupid question but is there a sealing washer between the 2 banjos on the MC? As in, sealing washer, banjo, sealing washer, banjo, sealing washer, banjo bolt.

The leaking pressure switch was on a standard dual system running one line down to the splitter on the bottom yoke and 2 lines running off that, didn't notice you were running 2 lines from the MC.

[jjc]

Up date
Trouble continued until I got back to Geoffrey's Garage back east (from me) and got off the 'everything should be fine with alignment of my new rt side brake system because I eliminated that pesky fender mount that was getting in the way & everything else on the right is stock parts' thought. And on to the thought 'something could still be woong with the alignment because of manufacturing spects and the fact they never intended for anyone to put a brake on the right side thought'.So I got out my 6" metal ruler and after removing the right pod, I laid it up against the rotor and rotor arm to check alignment. Yep it was off enough to make the pads bind or sponge/wiggle back & forth,but never come straight down on the rotor and seat firmly when trying to breed the system. It also became apparent that the right side had an issue when I unhooked the right side and was able to pump up the brakes in just five minutes.
So I started shimming the arm mounting points until I got the arm to be inline with the disc according to my little ruler. In about an hr later the system pumped up and I was done. Waisted all that time thinking that tolerances would be fine because I had all stock parts on the right as I did on the left.

[Bankerdanny]

Good job sorting it out. It is frustrating when you finally do and it is something simple.

[scottly]

'everything should be fine with alignment of my new rt side brake system because I eliminated that pesky fender mount that was getting in the way & everything else on the right is stock parts' thought

The fender brace fits under the right side caliper mount, and acts as the spacer.

[jjc]

Well thought I was done after getting a good solid lever,but on a ride I found out that sometimes when pulled it is solid and then other times much lower firmness or it pumps up after 3-4 pulls. Obviously that's an issue but I am not sure what's going on.
Tried bleeding again but o air came out. So eighty miles on the road now, but issues.

[scottly]

Sounds like a brake piston may be slowly getting pushed in, which is why you have to pump the lever to push it back out? A member recently reported the hard line to the caliper was bent, which caused the inside pad to be pressed against the rotor, which would be the opposite in your case. You might try fitting the adjuster and spring now, starting with the right side caliper, as it will limit how far the caliper moves inward.