That inner rotor fro the pressure side (the smaller one) looks to have been parked for a long time with 'wet' oil in it, which makes those little dark spots. If they are actual craters (which means they were once rusty, polished off by later operation) they will cause lower-than-normal pressure. Look closely at them under magnification if you can, to see if they are really dimples now, or just stains in the steel.
If the pressure side is less than 30 PSI and the seal in between the chambers is as stiff as most are, the seal won't close on the shaft. This lets all the oil that can possibly flow thru that seal do just that, instead of going to the oil filter (and pressure bypass). When this happens, the flow into the oil tank becomes very high, which may be what you were seeing earlier? It is pumping oil from the tank, thru the seal, back to the tank. There needs to be more than 30 PSI to reach full flow thru the oil filter enroute to the bearings on the crankshaft. This is one reason why 10w40 oils don't work well in this engine: they get too thin and it escapes thru the pump and back to the tank instead of out into the crank.
Once the pressure reaches over 30-ish PSI the seal squeezes tightly (if it is flexible) onto the shaft and the leaking stops - until the seal wears out or gets hard again. In mine it was the years, and not the miles, when the flow dropped off due to the seal being hard (I think it was in 2010?) and during long sits at traffic lights I could hear the oil slowly become insufficient to reach the rockers, with them making more noise just before the red traffic light turned green again. Raising the idle speed (manually) would quiet them back down, but that made for a high (1800 RPM) idle and even more heat. A new seal fixed it until I rebuilt the whole engine in 2013 at 131k miles, so it was due. It got a better oil pump then, too!
