When you move the points plate the points gap always alters, it is a jugglig job to get gap at 0.35mm(14 thou) AND timing on Fmark using static bulb.
NOTE
DO NOT TURN THE CRANK WITH THE BIG NUT ON THE ADVANCER if you have you may have bent the advncer shaft
What he ^^^ said...
The gap should be about 0.014" with the points cam fully opening the points. For the 1-4 points this means you want to see the 2-3 timing marks in the little window, and vice-versa for the 2-3 side's points.
Turn the engine with either the kickstarter or the electric start ('bump', but harder to do) with the sparkplugs out. If you turn the big nut by the points backward (CCW) just once, it bends the points shaft. Then you'll chase your tail trying to get the timing right: it will wobble when the engine runs, making the timing marks jump all over under a timing light - and that spark is actually doing that!
If your points are Daiichi: you may not be able to get them to set up with the normal 0.014" gap on both sets, or sometimes even with 0.016" gaps, which will cause other timing issues. To do the 0.014" gaps requires bending the ground arm(s) slightly in toward the moving arm(s), about 0.002" to 0.004" in most cases. This is because the geometry is 'off' a little bit on the Daiichi parts.
