Topic: Carb bell crank position question

[Dingus76]

So I just reinstalled my carbs on my 76 550 after having them off to check float height levels as I have never done that in this bike. They were indeed off. While they were off I bench synced them. I followed guides on here and I’m almost positive I have it right. (I haven’t started the bike yet) but I designated #2 carb as my reference carb, backed idle adjuster all the way off, set number 2 slide bottomed out, raised idle knob to fit drill bit. Set the rest using the adjusters. I made sure the slides bottomed out when the idle was turned out.

My question is, when installing I realized that even with the idle adjuster all the way backed out. I noticed that the bell tank where the cables attach Doesn’t make contact with the pin on the cable mounting bracket. Even after I turned it. How important is it that it makes contact? Also. Can I just loosen the bolts and clock the bell crank so it makes contact? I included a picture of the linkage BEFORE I took it off the bike. Where it was making contact, just so you guys know what I’m taking about

[seanbarney41]

Its not supposed to touch when the throttles are closed, manual specifies a certain width gap, so that when you forcefully close the throttle, the springs in each individual carb's linkage can absorb any force towards bending or breaking parts.

Try starting your bike, let it idle, then try to close the throttle even further.  You should feel the springs resistance and the idle speed will drop approx. 1 or 200 rpm lower than idle speed...

[Deltarider]

[...] manual specifies a certain width gap [...]

Realise that the drawing in page 8 in the Shop Manual Honda CB500-550 is incorrect. Probably that's why that particular page is absent in most internet copies of the manual. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,181510.msg2102408.html#msg2102408 The confusion is resolved in Reply #3 there.

[Dingus76]

Its not supposed to touch when the throttles are closed, manual specifies a certain width gap, so that when you forcefully close the throttle, the springs in each individual carb's linkage can absorb any force towards bending or breaking parts.

Try starting your bike, let it idle, then try to close the throttle even further.  You should feel the springs resistance and the idle speed will drop approx. 1 or 200 rpm lower than idle speed...

Thanks for the reply! I’ll start it and see how it performs the way it is

[Dingus76]

[...] manual specifies a certain width gap [...]

Realise that the drawing in page 8 in the Shop Manual Honda CB500-550 is incorrect. Probably that's why that particular page is absent in most internet copies of the manual. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,181510.msg2102408.html#msg2102408 The confusion is resolved in Reply #3 there.

Thanks alot for that link of page 8 I wasn’t aware of that… it does appear in the drawing that the bell crank is indeed touching the stop. I suppose my bench sync has clocked it so it’s not making contact. Is this adjustable now that’s it’s on the bike? I would hate to take these off yet again to re do it… my air box boots arnt liking these carbs coming off repeatedly 

[Deltarider]

IIRC it's an excentric pin or whatever that can be adjusted, but in practice I don't think it will matter much whether the stop is functional or not.

[Dingus76]

IIRC it's an excentric pin or whatever that can be adjusted, but in practice I don't think it will matter much whether the stop is functional or not.

Rode the bike in the distinguished gentleman’s ride on Sunday. Put about 100 miles on it. Seemed to run great for the most part. Do you have any idea if the 4 into 2 jardine exhaust would affect stock carb settings? I think I read on here they shouldn’t but I would think they would have to a bit. I got it to where it doesn’t crack and pop on decel. Just seems to be slightly hesitant at takeoff.

[bryanj]

Shouldnt need any changes