Topic: How to remove the final driven flange on a 1975 cb550 rear wheel?

[gbal06]

Is there a special trick to removing this? I looked in the manual and it doesn’t state how to remove this? Do you have to remove the bear and retainer first? Should it just pull off?  Thank you (#12) on the picture

[Deltarider]

May I first ask what it is that you want to do?

[bryanj]

Yes you have to remove the LH thread bearing retainer

[gbal06]

Powder coating the rims so I wanted to remove the rubber dampers, inspect and replace if needed.  I know they are hard to find

[gbal06]

“Yes you have to remove the LH thread bearing”

How does the retainer hold the flange on? It looks like it should just pull straight off?

[calj737]

“Yes you have to remove the LH thread bearing”

How does the retainer hold the flange on? It looks like it should just pull straight off?

The reatiner is steel, the hub is aluminum. The retainer has 4 "stakes" placed in quadrants around the retainer flange. They need to be drilled out, and deep enough for the flange to rotate. The retainer is threaded behind the flange and screws into the hub. The threads are Left-handed which means righty-loosey lefty-tighty.

If it wont release, you can apply some heat to the face of the flange and that should help it unscrew.

[BenelliSEI]

Back to your question….. the hub (#12 that has the sprocket bolted to it) does come out separately, without removing any bearings. Mount the sprocket and get a long 2 X 4” piece of lumber under it. Get someone else to stand on the wheel/tire, flat on the floor, sprocket side up. Now work your way around prying it out by pushing down on the lumber. You may need some shims between the lumber and the tire.

[Medyo Bastos]

Back to your question….. the hub (#12 that has the sprocket bolted to it) does come out separately, without removing any bearings. Mount the sprocket and get a long 2 X 4” piece of lumber under it. Get someone else to stand on the wheel/tire, flat on the floor, sprocket side up. Now work your way around prying it out by pushing down on the lumber. You may need some shims between the lumber and the tire.

Correct, or you can stand on the wheel/tire, grab the sprocket on either side and work the sprocket carrier loose from the dampers. It isn’t too difficult, just give it a little umphhh!


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[Deltarider]

These retainers have a fine thread and as the steel of the retainer and the aluminium (alloy) of the hub is not a particular good marriage, use extreme care to remove it. Often the thread of the retainer comes out damaged. Personally I have not seen a CB500/550 yet that needed new rubber dampers. Probably for that reason, till over 20 years ago there was a surplus and they were on sale dead cheap. Mine have served over 140.000km and are still OK.

[Little_Phil]

The left hand thread retainer is screwed into the hub.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f1-super-sport-550-four-1976-england_model17113/hub-rear-wheel_42601323030/
The retainer flange will prevent the sprocket carrier from being removed. So back to:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,195125.0.html

[bryanj]

It is part of a service schedule, but cant remember which one, to remove the drive flange and grease lubricate the spigot on the wheel and inside of flange.
You know when it hasnt been done because the slight rotary and sideways movement in use frets both spigot and flange then play gets worse.
The O ring on the spigot has been obsolete for many years and has an unusual D cross section shape, somebody on the uk forum in europe had some made specially but i think he sold them all