I can't tell yet what is wrong with your bike. But, I might suggest you do some diagnostic tests to determine what the cause is before you start changing things and throwing money at bits that won't necessarily make you or your bike happier.
My favorite way of troubleshooting is to collect enough data and let it show where the problem lies.
1) Have there been any changes to the bike from when it left the showroom floor? Air filter and exhaust changes can certainly effect the engine's carburetor tuning needs.
2) Tune up history; tappets adjusted, cam chain adjust, spark plug numbers, gap, point condition and gap, ignition timing, air filter life history?
3) If you're going after carb bits, know that you have mechanical slides directly linked to the twist grip. Throttle position determines what part of the carburetor is dominating the fuel mix, not RPM. So, temporarily mark your throttle so you know at what settings the distastefull behavior occurs. This helps focus on the area of the carb that needs to be addressed/ scrutinized.
4) The deposits on the spark plugs are your window on the combustion conditions inside the cylinder. To make this useful, learn to read the spark plug deposits, and how to do a "plug Chop" that preserves the deposits under the problem conditions for you to later read and understand if the mixture is too rich or too lean.
See:
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.htmlA "bog" is not self explanatory and subject to interpretation. Could be a rich condition, could be a lean condition. Wouldn't we want to know which and at what throttle position before we took the carbs apart?
A couple other diagnostic techniques are:
To temporarily run without an air filter, which should make the carbs run leaner over the entire range. How does that effect your "bog"?
Alternately, add partial choke, which should make the carbs run richer over the entire throttle position range. Note it's effect. Better? Worse?
Cheers,