Topic: New clutch is slipping hard?

[scottly]

New Barnett spring are on order, I'll update once I try them out. In the meantime, any other insights to why a slightly undersized clutch pack won't disengage would be greatly appreciated!

I think you are back to adjustment. Are you using the method I suggested using your finger? Also, with zero slack at the clutch cover lever, note how far the handlebar lever moves before the cover lever starts to move. I had an issue with a dragging clutch that turned out to be a worn out hole in the hand lever pivot hole. The end of the lever moved over an inch before anything moved down below. Have you actually ridden the bike since installing the thicker pack? Sometimes it helps to settle things in.

[Aceon]

Disengagement depends largely on the whole clutch pack height. The lifter in the clutch cover only has a +/-2mm reach (4mm total range).

Yep, makes sense. But I would've thought a 1.535" total pack height (new friction, old steels) would be within the normal range. It's only .015" thicker than my original clutch pack that worked great besides some slip.

I think you are back to adjustment. Are you using the method I suggested using your finger? Also, with zero slack at the clutch cover lever, note how far the handlebar lever moves before the cover lever starts to move. I had an issue with a dragging clutch that turned out to be a worn out hole in the hand lever pivot hole. The end of the lever moved over an inch before anything moved down below. Have you actually ridden the bike since installing the thicker pack? Sometimes it helps to settle things in.

Yep, thank you for the suggestion. I tried your method, though for some reason there always is some slack in the clutch cover lever, it seems to be able to move 2mm back and forth before engaging - not sure if I remember that happening before. But even with the clutch cover screw adjusted all the way in and the cover lever pulled as far as it can basically go, the clutch was still too tight to roll the bike. I didn't ride it because I wouldn't be able to disengage the engine, but it's probably worth turning it on and letting it spin a bit to maybe loosen it up.

[HondaMan]

Disengagement depends largely on the whole clutch pack height. The lifter in the clutch cover only has a +/-2mm reach (4mm total range).

Yep, makes sense. But I would've thought a 1.535" total pack height (new friction, old steels) would be within the normal range. It's only .015" thicker than my original clutch pack that worked great besides some slip.

I think you are back to adjustment. Are you using the method I suggested using your finger? Also, with zero slack at the clutch cover lever, note how far the handlebar lever moves before the cover lever starts to move. I had an issue with a dragging clutch that turned out to be a worn out hole in the hand lever pivot hole. The end of the lever moved over an inch before anything moved down below. Have you actually ridden the bike since installing the thicker pack? Sometimes it helps to settle things in.

Yep, thank you for the suggestion. I tried your method, though for some reason there always is some slack in the clutch cover lever, it seems to be able to move 2mm back and forth before engaging - not sure if I remember that happening before. But even with the clutch cover screw adjusted all the way in and the cover lever pulled as far as it can basically go, the clutch was still too tight to roll the bike. I didn't ride it because I wouldn't be able to disengage the engine, but it's probably worth turning it on and letting it spin a bit to maybe loosen it up.

The clutch won't fully disengage until it has been run some, and is hot at least once. These are wet clutches: they don't disengage with the engine not running. They require the clutch to be spinning to spread oil between the steel and fiber plates: the oil comes in via the center of the hub, from the oil pump's special diversion path.

[scottly]

Yep, thank you for the suggestion. I tried your method, though for some reason there always is some slack in the clutch cover lever, it seems to be able to move 2mm back and forth before engaging

If there is slack, the adjuster is not all the way in. Are you adjusting the cable at the clutch housing, or the slotted adjuster on the lever with the locknut?

[PeWe]

Late clutch (K7/K8/F2) must have the double metal plate.

I installed a complete F2 clutch in my K6.
EBC fibers and glass beaded metal discs except for the double that got a manual massage with emery cloth to get a rougher surface.

Barnett springs.

The clutch lever play down the clutch is important.
Stopper screw tightened until it stop, back out 1/4 turn, maybe a very little more not less and lock the nut.

The clutch alu "halves" must hook into each other. The 4 towers in correct holes on mating part. 2 correct and 2 wrong combinations. If wrong clutch pack will not go together.

I use the harder black Barnett springs for CB500 and smaller. 970cc,  over 100whp with much torque need it. Slips with the other.

I used the CB750 Barnett springs earlier with 836 and 80whp, K6 clutch basket etc. without double metal disc. No problems.

I had slips back in the 80's at wot shifting to 5th. Car oil Mobil 1...

[Aceon]

You guys have been incredibly helpful and informative so I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

Anyways, I think I got the issue figured out! The Barnett springs arrived in the mail and ended up being a bit taller than the Vesrah springs so that had me worried. But I finished installing and spent a while getting the adjustment right and I think we’re good to go! It was super tight at first but once I turned the bike on, it loosened up a lot. There’s definitely a bit of drag with the clutch pulled in, but I think a test ride (once it stops raining) should fix that - it still rolls if you try.

After my 4th re-install, I’m not exactly sure how I messed up the previous one, but I really don’t think it was the springs. I may have turned the throw out bearing in a weird way but that’s just a hunch.

I can’t wait to give it a test ride - if I don’t report back to this thread I’m probably busy going fast!