Topic: My 1976 CB400F Restoration Project Has Arrived

[newday777]

yeah, it makes you wonder why it's a nice '76 with a '75 tank and covers.

Probably because someone either wanted blue or they found a blue set to replace a damaged tank. There are still some NOS to be found.

[bryanj]

But its NOT a 76, the vin plate says so

[jlh3rd]

lol
YES it is. His data plate will say "1976 model".
U.S. models only!....ok!
It wasn't a VIN until 1981. Until then, it was a chassis #, The date is a manufacture date, not a model year.
I've told you, my '75 550F data plate says 12/74....there is no 1974 550F.
Read the top paragraph. This is why technically for the U.S.models, after 1975, the F1 model designation was not officially used.
Outside the U.S. , that's different.

[jlh3rd]

Neither CMS or David silver spares call the U.S. 1976 400F an F1. They do for other countries.
Silver is considered a leading expert on the 400f's. He should know.
It's semantics, doesn't matter to me, but a newbie is entitled to know the truth, no matter the insignificance.

[bryanj]

The vin plate does not show a model year till much later, only a date of manufacture and that it complied with all us regulations on that date, the only country that quotes model years instead of build dates is US.
What happens when the importers overstock and it stays in a crate 10 months, it is still the build date that matters for parts NOT when its sold and registered

[WingMan71]

But its NOT a 76, the vin plate says so

Once again... the VIN plate someone else posted up as an example is NOT MY VIN PLATE.

No one has seen my VIN plate but ME!  The frame number and engine number on my bike both say it's a 1976.

Q.E.D.

[Ozzybud]

But its NOT a 76, the vin plate says so

Sorry you are dead wrong!

The production for the next year's bkes started in July of the previous year. . Hence a 7/75 build is for a 1976  model.
Just like all the cars in the states the production for the next model year starts August first.

This bike is a 1976 model also with the VIN starting with 2Xxxxxx. This is very basic and common knowledge. Not sure where you are coming from.

[bryanj]

You said in an earlier post that the vin plate says 7/75 is that correct?

[Ozzybud]

Here is a pic of my original 1976 CB750F.
The VIN starts with 2xxxxxx . It is a 1976 F1 model. Candy Antares Red(a color for 1976)
So you are saying since the tag says 1975 we should call it a 1975?  Then why is it Red?

[jlh3rd]

yep and the cable is covering up where it says "motorcycle" and underneath "1976 model"

[Ozzybud]

yep and the cable is covering up where it says "motorcycle" and underneath "1976 model"

Yes

[WingMan71]

I tried to put up a post all day yesterday and it wouldn't work.   Trying again to day...

Question about proper paint for the master cylinder.

I rebuilt the master cylinder yesterday and trying to determine the correct color.  The top of mine is gray, but the bottom is black. See pictures. 

Guessing that the top is just sun faded, and the whole thing should be black. Correct?

ADVICE PLEASE: If black, what brand black rattle can spray paint are you all using to paint these black parts?

[newday777]

Black is the color the master cylinders came

[bryanj]

Its anodised black not painted, paint wont survive brake fluid

[WingMan71]

Its anodised black not painted, paint wont survive brake fluid

Well, heck, I'd better not spill any then, 'cause I'm not gonna get this anodized. 

[jlh3rd]

I could make a suggestion about brake fluid but........eh, here goes anyway.
I used silicon brake fluid back in 1976 in my new '76 550F. Being uninformed, I just bled my system until I thought it was good enough, then rode it. I was young, invincible, and rode the bike ...spirited.
I never had an issue for the 1.5 years I had it.
It doesn't eat paint.
I'm not recommending it. I don't ride hardly anymore. It is in my mint '75 550F, it's ridden sparingly, hardly ever, but the brake works fine even though the bike sits mostly. Having silicon fluid did save my mint tank.
I don't know what current opinion is .
just a thought.

[WingMan71]

I could make a suggestion about brake fluid but........eh, here goes anyway.
I used silicon brake fluid back in 1976 in my new '76 550F. Being uninformed, I just bled my system until I thought it was good enough, then rode it. I was young, invincible, and rode the bike ...spirited.
I never had an issue for the 1.5 years I had it.
It doesn't eat paint.
I'm not recommending it. I don't ride hardly anymore. It is in my mint '75 550F, it's ridden sparingly, hardly ever, but the brake works fine even though the bike sits mostly. Having silicon fluid did save my mint tank.
I don't know what current opinion is .
just a thought.

I'm considering using DOT5 silicone. 

With a brand new completely rebuilt, empty, front brake system.  Why not?

Won't absorb moisture like DOT4 either.

[jlh3rd]

you are using the original caliper? Just curious.

[WingMan71]

you are using the original caliper? Just curious.

Yes, but still struggling to get the old piston out. Stuck worse than any I've seen before.  Can usually get them out with compressed air, but not this time.  Soaked it in PB Blaster overnight, even tried heating the caliper up with a heat gun. 

Now that I finally have the MC rebuilt, gonna hook the caliper back up and refill the system and try to force it out.

[RAFster122s]

Loosely screw in the hose from a grease gun until it is finger tight. The grease will pump out the piston, attach the line to the brake line opening and have your bleeder screw closed. The grease can be scooped out and the clean blob be saved or tossed. Spray out the caliper body and openings with brake cleaner. If the bleeder is stuck lots of heat cycles with torch and if you cannot get it to release see if melting a crayon into the threads of the bleeder screw can get it to release. Lots of heat and lots of patience...
David

[scottly]

I could make a suggestion about brake fluid but........eh, here goes anyway.
I used silicon brake fluid back in 1976 in my new '76 550F. Being uninformed, I just bled my system until I thought it was good enough, then rode it. I was young, invincible, and rode the bike ...spirited.
I never had an issue for the 1.5 years I had it.
It doesn't eat paint.
I'm not recommending it. I don't ride hardly anymore. It is in my mint '75 550F, it's ridden sparingly, hardly ever, but the brake works fine even though the bike sits mostly. Having silicon fluid did save my mint tank.
I don't know what current opinion is .
just a thought.

I'm considering using DOT5 silicone. 

With a brand new completely rebuilt, empty, front brake system.  Why not?

Won't absorb moisture like DOT4 either.

Read this:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,171325.msg1993139.html#msg1993139

[WingMan71]

Getting ready to pull the carbs off.

No tips at all in either the Honda Factory Service Manual or the Clymer manual regarding carb removal.

So, members:

1. Any tips or tricks on carb removal?

2. Any tips on getting the stock air box moved back far enough to be able to pull the carbs back off of the intake boots?

Thanks in advance.

[Mark1976]

Getting ready to pull the carbs off.

No tips at all in either the Honda Factory Service Manual or the Clymer manual regarding carb removal.

So, members:

1. Any tips or tricks on carb removal?

2. Any tips on getting the stock air box moved back far enough to be able to pull the carbs back off of the intake boots?

Thanks in advance.

Develop patience...
But no really,  its not that difficult, I think the 550 is waaaaay worse.
Learning how to get the air chamber (black plastic box between thr carbs and airfilter box) out of the way is the kicker for me. Pushing the snorkle tube that connects the air chamber and air filter box out of the way makes room to slide it (to the right, brake pedal side) out and then you'll have room to pull the carb rack out. But the first time or two it really sucks.

[WingMan71]

Develop patience...
But no really,  its not that difficult, I think the 550 is waaaaay worse.
Learning how to get the air chamber (black plastic box between thr carbs and airfilter box) out of the way is the kicker for me. Pushing the snorkle tube that connects the air chamber and air filter box out of the way makes room to slide it (to the right, brake pedal side) out and then you'll have room to pull the carb rack out. But the first time or two it really sucks.

Well... you're right about these being a PITA.  This will be my 15th restoration so I've pulled carbs off of lots of vintage Hondas, but this one is the worst as far as having no room to wiggle them out.

I moved the hoses that run down in front of the air box to make room to move it back, then cable-tied the air box back as far as it would go aginst the frame.

That provided enough room to use bar clamps to pull the carb bank out of the cylinder head insulator boots, BUT the ONLY way to pull them out of the boots was to let them go back into the air box boots!   So, that's where I am now.  Out of the cylinder head boots and no way to move them forward out of the air box boots to get the carbs out. I need an inch of room that I just don't have!

It's beginning to look like the only way to accomplish this is to completely REMOVE the air box from the frame first.

Will attach some pics.

[WingMan71]

Well... I was right, there is just not enough space to remove the carbs with the air box in the frame no matter how far back you push the air box.  You need another inch of room and it's just not there.

So, I figured a way to remove the air box from the frame!  NOT easy.  Going back in may be harder.

Once the air box was removed, there was plenty room to pull the carbs out of the cylinder head insulator boots and remove the carbs.  Success!