Topic: My 1976 CB400F Restoration Project Has Arrived

[WingMan71]

A useful [maybe] hint: the 350F and 400F carbs don't usually come off the throttle arms until the front mounting plate is loose and tilted forward from the bottom up. This lets the carbs tilt (because their bracket isn't holding them upright) to get the little ball levers out of their lifters.

But...this also often breaks those little flat rubber dust seals on those ball shafts. So, put a bit of lube on those shafts and balls (thru their top caps) before trying to unmount them, or they may/will split the rubber seals, which are now pretty brittle. And unobtanium, AFAIK.

Thanks much for those hints.

Seems that the two steps were out of order in the factory service manual.  Said to separate the throttle arms and them remove the mounting plate!  I should have figured that out.

I did see a warning about the rubber dust seals.  I'll be sure to be careful with those.

[WingMan71]

OK, some questions about these rubber seals on the adjuster holders.  See attached picture.

Getting ready to try to pry them off of the ball without tearing them.  Going to warm them up a bit with a hair dryer and also put some red rubber lube on them in hopes that helps.

1. What is the purpose of these rubber pieces?  Just a dust seal?

2. They seem to be attached at the other end as well.  Does that end have to come off too?

3. Why is this a rubber ribbon? Why can't they just be separate pieces on either end, like a rubber washer or o-ring?  Is there a reason it's a ribbon?

4. What happens if you tear them and can't reuse them?  Can you just leave them off, or are you better off replacing them with a thin rubber washer or o-ring on both ends?

Thanks for any adivce.

[WingMan71]

Never could get the piston out of this crusty old caliper.  Air pressure, hydraulic pressure, nothing would budge it.

Had to source all new parts.  Probably best.

[WingMan71]

Worked on the chrome wheels and steel spokes for a while yesterday.  They were pretty crusty.

Here's a before and after pic of the rear wheel and spokes.  Looking much better, but still work to be done.

[Tim2005]

That wheel came up well, what did you use?

[WingMan71]

I used "000" steel wool and "00" steel wool on the chrome rims.  "000" on most places, and "00" on the tough spots that had a bit more rust spots starting.

I haven't even used any chrome polish on them yet.  They should look even better after that.

Was just excited to see that they came up as well as they did.

[WingMan71]

Sat for 20 years with gas in the fuel bowls!  Nasty!

Lord help me, I'm gonna need it!

[Mark1976]

   They'll clean up fine, the last really ugly set I did came out find and worked like new when done.

[HondaMan]

If you can spare the $$, go to NAPA and get one of their carb-cleaner cans. It's not quite a gallon, comes with a little basket inside to put the parts in for soaking. I use it when folks send their carbs to me, and it's the modern version of the EPA-outlawed soaking cans we used to get at the local auto parts stores in the 'old days' when stuff just worked. It works very well, but I've found that the fastest way to clean off their oily goo is to spray the bodies afterward with brake cleaner spray. (Take THAT, EPA...).

[Mark1976]

   That's all I use, then a quick dip in the ultrasonic cleaner, they'll look and work just like new.

[WingMan71]

If you can spare the $$, go to NAPA and get one of their carb-cleaner cans. It's not quite a gallon, comes with a little basket inside to put the parts in for soaking. I use it when folks send their carbs to me, and it's the modern version of the EPA-outlawed soaking cans we used to get at the local auto parts stores in the 'old days' when stuff just worked. It works very well, but I've found that the fastest way to clean off their oily goo is to spray the bodies afterward with brake cleaner spray. (Take THAT, EPA...).

In the  process of doing that right now. Two carbs cleaned up. Two to go. Everything reusable except the float valves. They are complete toast. Could barely get them removed from the bodies and the needles are locked up tight inside. Plunger won't budge and the needle tips are corroded.

[WingMan71]

ENGINE COOLING FIN CLEANING is always a problem.  The fins on this bike were really crusty from sitting in storage for over 20 years.

Usually I go after them with hand-held wire brushes, which takes forever and ever.  (Dremel tool brushes are just not big enough and fly to pieces in minutes.) I found something that worked way better than anything else I've used before.

DICO NYALOX BRUSHES:  They're nylon bristled brushes that are impregnated with abrasives through the entire length of the bristles, so the clean from the side as well!  They worked really well.

I bought a set of three from Amazon: 80 grit, 120 grit and 240 grit.  Got the 4" diameter size which was just right, with long enough bristles to get all the way into the cooling fins.

The 120 grit was perfect to get the nasty stuff off, and then I cleaned up with the 240 grit.  (The 80 grit was too coarse for the fins and marked them up if used.)

Attaching a picture of the brushes and some more files to show the brushes in use and a pic of the finished fins.