Topic: Battery not charging.

[Vhonda]

1973 CB500

The bike wiring came this way. It has been a couple of years since I messed with the 73' CB500 motorcycle. Purchased a new battery fired right up and rides fine. Float bowl seals need to be replaced.

The battery not charging. After 3 years of storing it away, I put in a new battery and the bike fired up. It runs flawlessly everything works, kick start only (no ignition button), aftermarket tach, relay switch added, all lights work as it should.

I am going to dive into the wiring this weekend and clean it up. Any help pre-forward would be appreciated, links or diagram.

1. Bike running tested with multi-meter. 12.58 idle then rev to 5,000 rpm only jumped to 13.5 and nothing more.
2. Need help with understanding this aftermarket rectifier wiring for 1973 CB500.
3. Last I checked the stator was in good working order.

I am guessing the rectifier is the issue, bad wiring (I purchased two units as pictured, identical wiring, one is mounted upside down, and the other is for reference pictured).

Thanks will post back as I go through this

[Vhonda]

STATOR TESTED:

1. Stator insulated tested, OL negative, all 3 leads tested (negative black to ground, red to 3 yellow stator wires)
2. Check the resistance of all 3 yellow wires to the stator, reads 1.6 resistance across all 3 (is this 1.6 correct number).

[Vhonda]

Rectifier Combo unit with wiring purchased off amazon.

[Vhonda]

Stator wiring harness

AGAIN, everything works, signal, brake lights, neutral light, rev limiter, low-high beam, bike ride and idle no probelm.

BATTERY is not charging only.

[Vhonda]

Upon deeper dive. These are the 3 yellow Stator wires going into the Rectifier Combo.

Will replace and test Rec. Combo

RECTIFIER COMBO Test: Continuity phase check per wire 484,497,413

Check my second unit not mounted on the bike was 488,494,508

[calj737]

From the glimpse of wiring, I’d say your issue is faulty install. I’d be starting from scratch at the stator plug to the RR with all new installation.

[HondaMan]

By chance...does the bike have a Dyna S electronic ignition and the green 3-ohm coils?
Those alone can cause the melted wiring situation, have been it [too many times] before.

[Vhonda]

Hondaman: I do not have Dyna S starter, my bike currently is kick start only. I removed the ignition switch.

I rewired from the Stator connector to the Rectifier Combo.

Sitting OFF 11.46

Idle 12.24

5000 RPM 13.65 (seems low, I have seen 14-15 in the past) Is that enough to recharge my battery as I am riding?

Recommend me a rectifier combo not from Amazon, please.

[CycleRanger]

http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Charging-and-Regulators

Sparkmoto has decent stuff.

[Vhonda]

Does the white, green, and black from the Rectifier Combo connect to the stock OEM Voltage Regulator?

Do I need the stock Regulator?

My white,green,black wires from the Rectifier Combo are not connected to OEM Voltage Regulator.

[scottly]

Upon deeper dive. These are the 3 yellow Stator wires going into the Rectifier Combo.

The insulation is melted!??

[Vhonda]

Scottly I rewired it.

[scottly]

Does the white, green, and black from the Rectifier Combo connect to the stock OEM Voltage Regulator?

The regulator side of the reg/rect combo replaces the stock regulator. The white, green, and black wires on the new unit connect to the same color wires from the harness that the OEM reg used.

[Vhonda]

Scottly, you are right, I looked under my tray and saw the OEM Regulator....

The OEM Voltage regulator was attached, I unplugged it and attached the harness from the stator to the New Rectifier Combo Unit.

The voltage reading was more responsive to the throttle. I had to shut it down, I have straight pipes and it's late here.

Okay read somewhere that the range is 13.5-14.5 @ 5,000 rpm, any more than that then I will overcharge

[Vhonda]

there she is 1973 cb500

[dave500]

I rarely post on electrical troubles,its too hard to explain and i need to see it,a lot of those cheaper reg/rec combo units are rubbish full stop,ive used for years and fitted to other bikes with electro magnetic field any decent used rectifier from a later bike even if it uses permanant magnet field,i only use the rectifier part of its wiring and add a bosch electronic regulator RE57 to the wiring,these are common and although not dead cheap they work perfectly,youll gain a better idle charge voltage aswell.

[grcamna2]

I rarely post on electrical troubles,its too hard to explain and i need to see it,a lot of those cheaper reg/rec combo units are rubbish full stop,ive used for years and fitted to other bikes with electro magnetic field any decent used rectifier from a later bike even if it uses permanant magnet field,i only use the rectifier part of its wiring and add a bosch electronic regulator RE57 to the wiring,these are common and although not dead cheap they work perfectly,youll gain a better idle charge voltage aswell.

The Bosch RE57 seems to work well?
Dave,what idle voltage and 3-4000rpm voltage does it allow on your Honda CB500/550 ?

[dave500]

itll charge at idle Bill with the headlight on,ive posted this a few times over the years.

[PeWe]

An installed voltmeter to view while riding is a great help too.

I have adjusted my bikes (CB750) stock regulators numerous times to get proper charging and avoid too high voltage after 1 hour ride or more.

That way found how to adjust the regulator.
Core gap 0.8-0.85mm.

Not less nor more. I have tried it on 3 different regulators.
Almost no charging  to overcharging  15-16V and more.

Both bikes with Dyna-S. Dyna 5 ohm coils and new Honda stock.

LED H4 headlight taking 30W. LED rear lamp, around 5W despite braking.
Stock blinkers 21W each, visible on voltmeter when used.

Wrong setting of core gap will also make a big difference if the headlight is on or off.

The other "relay" contact ca 0.35mm. Manual says 0.30-0.40mm. 0.30 feeler gauge in by ease, 0.40 not.

All electrical connections must be clean with good contact. From alternator- regulator- rectifier- battery.
A pressure washer can if aimed wrong cause corroded connections rather quick.

Good ground. I have installed extra ground wire between rectifier and battery. A thick wire, had to use yellow crimp ear.

The Bosch regulator is interesting. I need to have a look searching......

Here idling with headlight on. Will reach over 13V before 3000rpm.

Max 14.5V, often around 14.3V. For me OK when  14V  or more most of the time.

I have tried setting to get 14.5V most of the time on long rides. The bad thing is occasional 15V area.

[dave500]

i dont like those cheap digital meters,i have an older analogue VDO voltmeter,i cant keep pace with digital fluctuations?but a cheap watch is ok though!

[PeWe]

Not much space between my gauges for addional gadgets.
But it work fine, stable. No flickering numbers nor strange delays.  Glows in the dark too!

Can be used as a tool  when adjusting the regulator during a few rides.

I wonder how I could ride without before
Same as driving car, bike or only going somewhere without my smart phone

I often miss a clock, though.

[Vhonda]

This is what I did... 

Until my new voltage reader arrives.

[Vhonda]

i dont like those cheap digital meters,i have an older analogue VDO voltmeter,i cant keep pace with digital fluctuations?but a cheap watch is ok though!

Oh I like it very much, I am going to go all analog to fit the period. 

And yes I would like an analog clock also, maybe strap on a Timex calculator watch lol

Well been riding more than the 10 minutes testing and the battery went from 11.65 to 12.40, everything looks good. Now to hunt down an analog volt meter.

[bryanj]

Be carefillwith analogue voltmeters as there are two tyes
1 moving iron, usually cheaper
2 moving coil, usually more expensive

The cheap one can use 1/2 amp of current to give a reading, dearer one uses a small fraction of an amp. Difference is a flat battery if left on

[PeWe]

This is what I did... 

Until my new voltage reader arrives.

You need to see while riding.
Wrong or right voltage level can happen after 30-60 minutes or even more. Minimum use of blinkers and brake to avoid load.

Start with a fully charged battery to get max quicker.
Core gap incorrectly set  (too low gap) can make stock regulator to lower the voltage when bike hits a road bump.

This gadget will guarantee >200km long test rides to verify last adjustments.