The K3 never had #110 mainjets, but they got put in by owners who thought they needed to be that big because the K1 and early K2 had them, and they were faster. The jets weren't the reason, it was other things in the K3 that made it slightly slower.
If your aftermarket mainjets that are marked 110 are also Keyster or K&L mainjets, they are actually closer to #103 size in Keihin numbers, a bit leaner than what you started with. The rest of your jetting parts are correct if Keihin, and the idle air screw should be set between 7/8 and 1 turn from bottom. The float level should be 24mm depth, measured from those notches on the sides of the bowl gasket's surface to the bottom of the floats when the float tang just touches the float valve. There is a spring in those float valves that compresses very easily, so make sure it isn't pressed in when setting float depths.
When you have bowls off, unscrew the emulsion tubes (this is where the mainjets screw in) and clean the holes in those tubes with something sharp and strong: don't be afraid to make those holes a little bigger, which will work better with today's oxygenated fuels. I usually drill out the lower (larger) holes to 0.0375" if they are the early ones with 0.035" holes, a little too small for today's fuels.
