Topic: How much can you lower a stock CB550F?

[GreaseMonkey]

My stock (ish) CB550F is way too big for vertically challenged me.

I plan to do a full resto-mod of the bike, but for now just want to get it on the road and see what I like/don't like and want to change. I am going to do full custom front forks and rear shocks in the future specced to my weight and riding style.

But for now, I just want to slide the forks throught the triple clamps as much as I can without completely endangering my life... How much can I get away with? 1 inch? 2 inches? 2+ inches?

What about the rear shocks, any hacks/tricks/tips for the stock shocks to drop the rear of the bike? And if so, again, how much can I get away with?

Or maybe steal some cheap used ebay Honda shocks from another model bike that are shorter and bolt on?

Never been a fan of seat modding, always threw the riding position/balance way off for me on every bike I've tried with a lowered seat.

And yes I can one foot the bike just fine, but as a comfy daily commuter I prefer to flat foot both feet.

Appreciate any input!

[HondaMan]

The CB500/550 was Honda's reply to "the 750 is too tall", and they went a long way toward making this one more friendly to the vertically challenged. My brother is in that category, too, so he bought the CB500 after trying out my 750 one day. He had to lean it over so far at stops that he couldn't hold the bike up for the weight.

Shorter rear shocks for it may be tough to find today, but if you choose carefully with tires, you may be able to lower it 1/2"-3/4" or so that way, using 11" shocks. While you can slip the front forks up a little bit, doing it too far will make the bike steer very quickly, which results in instability at speed when you hit a bump: it tends to start shaking its head, which can get dangerous if the situation is just right (or, wrong in this case). About 1" slid up is about as far as was normally considered safe.

Narrowing the seat toward the front was how Honda made the very tall 750 much more easily controlled after the K0 model. This allows the legs to be closer to each other from your hips, so you don't stand bowlegged over the bike so much. The 550 is already narrower below that site, so nothing should interfere with your legs enroute to the ground unless you have an aftermarket 4-1 header system: some of those stick out on the side more than they should. Honda's was under the bike at the footpegs, for this very reason.

About tires: modern bike tires are all built on radial carcasses, even when they are non-radial type tires. This means they are taller than when these were bias-ply type tires, and taller by almost 40%. So, look around for a tire size like MT80[something]x18 instead of the more common MT90[something] type, as those will be 1cm lower to the ground. They are still fully rounded and won't hurt the handling in corners, etc.

[carnivorous chicken]

There are things that lower the rear shock -- they bolt on to the lower mount and put the shock back 1.5" or 2" or so. I've had a couple bikes that had them when I bought them, but no idea how you'd go about finding them today... maybe someone here has a set?

[newday777]

I have a set of those shock lowering brackets, they move the base of the shock backwards 3" to lower the bike 1 3/8". I just put them on a 750 that is on the lift to measure the difference. They also fit the 550 because of the oval front bolt hole.
You will want to lower the forks in the triple tree the same amount and you will need to shorten the side stand to work with the lowered frame height.
Getting the bike on the centerstand will be a challenge if you don't shorten it too.

[calj737]

Why don’t you opt for 17” wheels front and rear with your “custom” front forks and rear shocks. The only caveat is the rear tire/seat pan conflict if you commence modifying the hoop and inner fender.

And you certainly can modify the stock seat with different padding and a retro style cover if you want originality. Just please don’t bolt on a skateboard seat to your CB….

[Vhonda]

Rear

[Vhonda]

seat, don't mind the dirty ruler.

[Vhonda]

front, 1.5 inches drop triple clamp.

[Vhonda]

as it sits

[GreaseMonkey]

I have a set of those shock lowering brackets, they move the base of the shock backwards 3" to lower the bike 1 3/8". I just put them on a 750 that is on the lift to measure the difference. They also fit the 550 because of the oval front bolt hole.
You will want to lower the forks in the triple tree the same amount and you will need to shorten the side stand to work with the lowered frame height.
Getting the bike on the centerstand will be a challenge if you don't shorten it too.

What a beautiful thing. This is exactly what I need. Sent you a PM, but not sure if it sent because I don't see it in my "sent" box. Send me one if you didn't get mine.

I do plan to lower the front and rear equally, and then tweak the front slightly as I feel necessary for turn in.

Will have to chop and weld the side stand, not way around that. Ditching the center stand for weight.

[GreaseMonkey]

The CB500/550 was Honda's reply to "the 750 is too tall", and they went a long way toward making this one more friendly to the vertically challenged. My brother is in that category, too, so he bought the CB500 after trying out my 750 one day. He had to lean it over so far at stops that he couldn't hold the bike up for the weight.

Shorter rear shocks for it may be tough to find today, but if you choose carefully with tires, you may be able to lower it 1/2"-3/4" or so that way, using 11" shocks. While you can slip the front forks up a little bit, doing it too far will make the bike steer very quickly, which results in instability at speed when you hit a bump: it tends to start shaking its head, which can get dangerous if the situation is just right (or, wrong in this case). About 1" slid up is about as far as was normally considered safe.

Narrowing the seat toward the front was how Honda made the very tall 750 much more easily controlled after the K0 model. This allows the legs to be closer to each other from your hips, so you don't stand bowlegged over the bike so much. The 550 is already narrower below that site, so nothing should interfere with your legs enroute to the ground unless you have an aftermarket 4-1 header system: some of those stick out on the side more than they should. Honda's was under the bike at the footpegs, for this very reason.

About tires: modern bike tires are all built on radial carcasses, even when they are non-radial type tires. This means they are taller than when these were bias-ply type tires, and taller by almost 40%. So, look around for a tire size like MT80[something]x18 instead of the more common MT90[something] type, as those will be 1cm lower to the ground. They are still fully rounded and won't hurt the handling in corners, etc.

The tire height is something I would have never considered, every bit helps, appreciate it.

Was it the 500 or 750 your brother couldn't hold up at stops?

[GreaseMonkey]

Why don’t you opt for 17” wheels front and rear with your “custom” front forks and rear shocks. The only caveat is the rear tire/seat pan conflict if you commence modifying the hoop and inner fender.

And you certainly can modify the stock seat with different padding and a retro style cover if you want originality. Just please don’t bolt on a skateboard seat to your CB….

I am probably going to go with 18" wheels. My front+rear tire size is going to determine the wheel size, and based on the limited research I've done so far into the best sizes for handling, pretty sure I need to stick with 18" front and rear.

I want to keep the stock seat for it's ergonomics. Not really into the crazy custom cafe seats. Might get a nicer cover for it though.

[GreaseMonkey]

as it sits

Nice bike Vhonda, and thanks for the pictures.

How did you lower the rear to match the front? Are you using shorter shocks?

[newday777]

I have a set of those shock lowering brackets, they move the base of the shock backwards 3" to lower the bike 1 3/8". I just put them on a 750 that is on the lift to measure the difference. They also fit the 550 because of the oval front bolt hole.
You will want to lower the forks in the triple tree the same amount and you will need to shorten the side stand to work with the lowered frame height.
Getting the bike on the centerstand will be a challenge if you don't shorten it too.

What a beautiful thing. This is exactly what I need. Sent you a PM, but not sure if it sent because I don't see it in my "sent" box. Send me one if you didn't get mine.

I do plan to lower the front and rear equally, and then tweak the front slightly as I feel necessary for turn in.

Will have to chop and weld the side stand, not way around that. Ditching the center stand for weight.

Received and replied back to you

[scottly]

Sent you a PM, but not sure if it sent because I don't see it in my "sent" box.

In your profile, go to Modify Profile, and select Personal Messaging from the drop-down menu. Check the box for Save a copy of each PM in my sent items..

[HondaMan]

The CB500/550 was Honda's reply to "the 750 is too tall", and they went a long way toward making this one more friendly to the vertically challenged. My brother is in that category, too, so he bought the CB500 after trying out my 750 one day. He had to lean it over so far at stops that he couldn't hold the bike up for the weight.

Shorter rear shocks for it may be tough to find today, but if you choose carefully with tires, you may be able to lower it 1/2"-3/4" or so that way, using 11" shocks. While you can slip the front forks up a little bit, doing it too far will make the bike steer very quickly, which results in instability at speed when you hit a bump: it tends to start shaking its head, which can get dangerous if the situation is just right (or, wrong in this case). About 1" slid up is about as far as was normally considered safe.

Narrowing the seat toward the front was how Honda made the very tall 750 much more easily controlled after the K0 model. This allows the legs to be closer to each other from your hips, so you don't stand bowlegged over the bike so much. The 550 is already narrower below that site, so nothing should interfere with your legs enroute to the ground unless you have an aftermarket 4-1 header system: some of those stick out on the side more than they should. Honda's was under the bike at the footpegs, for this very reason.

About tires: modern bike tires are all built on radial carcasses, even when they are non-radial type tires. This means they are taller than when these were bias-ply type tires, and taller by almost 40%. So, look around for a tire size like MT80[something]x18 instead of the more common MT90[something] type, as those will be 1cm lower to the ground. They are still fully rounded and won't hurt the handling in corners, etc.

The tire height is something I would have never considered, every bit helps, appreciate it.

Was it the 500 or 750 your brother couldn't hold up at stops?

It was my [almost new at 2k miles then] 750K2 (same one I still have)! I was riding his brand-new 500 at the time (700 miles on its clock), I'd just uncrated it and delivered it down to him in Missouri in the back of my El Camino (I was in western IL at the time, at my shop). He rode it back up (300 miles) after his 300-mile break-in rides, wanted to compare it with the 750. He was shocked at both the weight, height, and power differences, so he didn't go 2 miles before we swapped back. One day many years later he commented that the 750's sudden clutch freaked him out, plus he could only get one toe on the ground at stops. He only has a 27"-28" inseam, while mine is nearly 34".

[calj737]

I am probably going to go with 18" wheels. My front+rear tire size is going to determine the wheel size, and based on the limited research I've done so far into the best sizes for handling, pretty sure I need to stick with 18" front and rear.

Your research is faulty if you believe 18x18 is the best for handling. Rake and trail dimensions have more to do with handling as the geometry determines handling characteristics. This is why so many modern bikes run 17” wheels and tires. There is not one specific wheel size setup that is “best” for handling.

With a more modern tire, you can also achieve a shorter overall tire as the sidewall height is determined as a % of the width (aspect ratio). Vintage tires are by far “taller” tires due to sidewall heights regardless of the wheel diameter.

Lowering blocks upset trail geometry, so from a pure handling perspective, they require a substantial change in the front end by lowering the triple tree, which steepens the rake, which makes bike less stable at speed.

You are certainly entitled to pursue the direction you prefer, but you should understand the changes you’re making will have significant impacts on other aspects of your ride.

I want to keep the stock seat for it's ergonomics. Not really into the crazy custom cafe seats. Might get a nicer cover for it though.

I should have been a bit more clear. There have been other members who retained the stock seat, but had the foam sculpted to be bit lower and especially more narrow nearer the tank. They were subtle changes that yielded drastic results in improving rider height, width between the knees (narrow seat point=longer leg=feet closer to the ground when stopped). This type of change should increase your comfort, gently lower the seated height of the rider without changing the aesthetic of the bike.

[newday777]

I have a set of those shock lowering brackets, they move the base of the shock backwards 3" to lower the bike 1 3/8". I just put them on a 750 that is on the lift to measure the difference. They also fit the 550 because of the oval front bolt hole.
You will want to lower the forks in the triple tree the same amount and you will need to shorten the side stand to work with the lowered frame height.
Getting the bike on the centerstand will be a challenge if you don't shorten it too.

What a beautiful thing. This is exactly what I need. Sent you a PM, but not sure if it sent because I don't see it in my "sent" box. Send me one if you didn't get mine.

I do plan to lower the front and rear equally, and then tweak the front slightly as I feel necessary for turn in.

Will have to chop and weld the side stand, not way around that. Ditching the center stand for weight.

But as you found out already, these blocks won't work on your 550F like they would on a 550K. Glad you found that out before you bought them from me! I didn't know that the F had a different swingarm than the 550K had and no rear down bolt to secure it at the rear.
Time for a different tactic to get you lower.

[Stev-o]

And yes I can one foot the bike just fine, but as a comfy daily commuter I prefer to flat foot both feet.

Appreciate any input!

This has come up before, I dont understand why you want to put both feet on the ground? 
I dont think I ever do that [but none of my bikes are used as "commuters"]

Any of you other guys feel the need to have both feet on the ground? 
I keep my right foot on the brake so the tail light is illuminated.

[MauiK3]

One foot down here. Other on brake.

The shock relocation brackets screw up the geometry and make them work way less than optimal.

[seanbarney41]

And yes I can one foot the bike just fine, but as a comfy daily commuter I prefer to flat foot both feet.

Appreciate any input!

This has come up before, I dont understand why you want to put both feet on the ground? 
I dont think I ever do that [but none of my bikes are used as "commuters"]

Any of you other guys feel the need to have both feet on the ground? 
I keep my right foot on the brake so the tail light is illuminated.

absolutely no need to put both feet on the ground.  Just be cautious as you learn.  When is the last time you checked out a modern dirt bike?  They are very tall.  Plenty of 14 year olds riding 450's.  I have been riding cb750's for years.  I am 5'8" with short legs and I can not put both feet down.  Trusr me you will get used to it and it's much better to be able to enjoy the fine handling your 550 is capable of when set up as designed by Honda.

[Vhonda]

One foot down ready to go.

Most of us spend more time riding than having both feet down hanging out in the parking lot or at a light.

Handling vs 2 feet down... take the handling

I can put two feet down and I normally do that when I back up my bike only.

[newday777]

Yup my usual is 1 foot down, right covers the brake. We don't ride a Harley that has low slung seat because of the frame cut.

[GreaseMonkey]

Yeah I didn't like the geometry alteration of those brackets either, but as I said, just looking for something temporary to get the bike lower and on the road to putt around for now. I hate cheap/haggard suspension, and would do full adjustables front and rear as I chip away at the bike. It's a resto-mod but she's a runner.

When I have a project bike that's not road legal it tends to stay a project bike forever. For some reason when I ride them around I'm more motivated to make the time to get things done, more like I am forced to do repairs as I ride the piss out of them and break stuff, that's probably what it is.

Not sure if I want to swap to a 550K swingarm to fit those brackets, it's a bit backwards as I'm trying to do something cheap and quick. Honda changed the swingarm for a reason, and I'm curious now as to why, I assume the "Super Sport" one would be superior in some way...

I always found it funny how guys who can double flat foot their bikes advise those who can't. Be that short and/or small and see how it is riding the bikes you ride, impossible endeavour isn't it? I don't flat foot both feet when I ride either, always in gear and on the brake. I've saved myself from getting rear ended countless times because of that habit, but there will always come an occasion when you will be in a superior position if you can have two feet on the ground. You just don't know about them because you've never had to think to yourself "crap, I could really use the extra leverage/support/muscle/traction/balance of another foot in this situation right now". Your body just subconciously responds as you naturally would with both your lower limbs, and go on about your day without ever thinking twice about it.

20 years riding experience here guys, if I need a bike to corner I can take out my '93 900RR. I can barely tippy toe that bike, and I'm okay with it. This bike is supposed to a be a relaxed daily commuter/do everything bike.

Come spring time when I've gone half a year without riding and am completely out of shape I can be as light as 90 pounds. Legit have 35 lbs less muscle on me. Trying being that light/weak on top of short and taking a pillion with a backpack full of groceries without having to flat foot two feet here and there...

Appreciate the advice and understand where it's coming from guys. Happy I took it when I was younger. Then again, I was all about going as fast as possible back then and I probably wouldn't have lowered my bikes anyway as there was no way I was going to compromise ANY corner speed/clearance back then.

Also, the girlfriend likes to steal my bikes and she likes them low, and I like her to be as comfortable as possible when on a two wheeled death machine in a big ass city full of people using their phones while they drive on the side. This 550 is supposed to deter her from taking out the 900RR, hopefully that trick works.


Anywho, back on topic.

So Vhonda, how did you lower the rear of your bike? Are you running a shorter shock? How much shorter?

[Don R]

 I think CycleX still has some shortie shocks, We (us old farts) always slipped an inch of fork tube through the trees.
 There are 3 different lengths of fork tubes available on ebay. I built a set of short 550 forks for my 750 drag bike.  (some of the lower parts are the same) the brake differences may be swapped as a set.